Simulation of breaking waves using the high-order spectral method with laboratory experiments: wave-breaking energy dissipation     

Betsy R. Seiffert  Guillaume Ducrozet 《Ocean Dynamics》2018,68(1):65-89

We examine the implementation of a wave-breaking mechanism into a nonlinear potential flow solver. The success of the mechanism will be studied by implementing it into the numerical model HOS-NWT, which is a computationally efficient, open source code that solves for the free surface in a numerical wave tank using the high-order spectral (HOS) method. Once the breaking mechanism is validated, it can be implemented into other nonlinear potential flow models. To solve for wave-breaking, first a wave-breaking onset parameter is identified, and then a method for computing wave-breaking associated energy loss is determined. Wave-breaking onset is calculated using a breaking criteria introduced by Barthelemy et al. (J Fluid Mech https://arxiv.org/pdf/1508.06002.pdf, submitted) and validated with the experiments of Saket et al. (J Fluid Mech 811:642–658, 2017). Wave-breaking energy dissipation is calculated by adding a viscous diffusion term computed using an eddy viscosity parameter introduced by Tian et al. (Phys Fluids 20(6): 066,604, 2008, Phys Fluids 24(3), 2012), which is estimated based on the pre-breaking wave geometry. A set of two-dimensional experiments is conducted to validate the implemented wave breaking mechanism at a large scale. Breaking waves are generated by using traditional methods of evolution of focused waves and modulational instability, as well as irregular breaking waves with a range of primary frequencies, providing a wide range of breaking conditions to validate the solver. Furthermore, adjustments are made to the method of application and coefficient of the viscous diffusion term with negligible difference, supporting the robustness of the eddy viscosity parameter. The model is able to accurately predict surface elevation and corresponding frequency/amplitude spectrum, as well as energy dissipation when compared with the experimental measurements. This suggests the model is capable of calculating wave-breaking onset and energy dissipation successfully for a wide range of breaking conditions. The model is also able to successfully calculate the transfer of energy between frequencies due to wave focusing and wave breaking. This study is limited to unidirectional waves but provides a valuable basis for future application of the wave-breaking model to a multidirectional wave field. By including parameters for removing energy due to wave-breaking into a nonlinear potential flow solver, the risk of developing numerical instabilities due to an overturning wave is decreased, thereby increasing the application range of the model, including calculating more extreme sea states. A computationally efficient and accurate model for the generation of a nonlinear random wave field is useful for predicting the dynamic response of offshore vessels and marine renewable energy devices, predicting loads on marine structures, and in the study of open ocean wave generation and propagation in a realistic environment.  相似文献   

Western boundary upwelling dynamics off Oman     

Clément Vic  Xavier Capet  Guillaume Roullet  Xavier Carton 《Ocean Dynamics》2017,67(5):585-595

Despite its climatic and ecosystemic significance, the coastal upwelling that takes place off Oman is not well understood. A primitive-equation, regional model forced by climatological wind stress is used to investigate its dynamics and to compare it with the better-known Eastern Boundary Upwellings (EBUs). The solution compares favorably with existing observations, simulating well the seasonal cycles of thermal structure, surface circulation (mean and turbulent), and sea-surface temperature (SST). There is a 1.5-month lag between the maximum of the upwelling-favorable wind-stress-curl forcing and the oceanic response (minima in sea-surface height and SST), which we attribute to onshore-propagating Rossby waves. A southwestward-flowing undercurrent (opposite to the direction of the near-surface flow) is also simulated with a core depth of 1000 m, much deeper than found in EBUs (150–200 m). An EKE budget reveals that, in contrast to EBUs, the upwelling jet is more prone to barotropic than baroclinic instability and the contribution of locally-generated instabilities to EKE is higher by an order of magnitude. Advection and redistribution of EKE by standing mesoscale features also play a significant role in EKE budget.  相似文献   

Conceptualization and Calibration of Anisotropic Alluvial Systems: Pitfalls and Biases     

Guillaume Gianni  John Doherty  Philip Brunner 《Ground water》2019,57(3):409-419

Physical properties of alluvial environments typically feature a high degree of anisotropy and are characterized by dynamic interactions between the surface and the subsurface. Hydrogeological models are often calibrated under the assumptions of isotropic hydraulic conductivity fields and steady-state conditions. We aim at understanding how these simplifications affect predictions of the water table using physically based models and advanced calibration and uncertainty analysis approaches based on singular value decomposition and Bayesian analysis. Specifically, we present an analysis of the information content provided by steady-state hydraulic data compared to transient data with respect to the estimation of aquifer and riverbed hydraulic properties. We show that assuming isotropy or fixed anisotropy may generate biases both in the estimation of aquifer and riverbed parameters as well as in the predictive uncertainty of the water table. We further demonstrate that the information content provided by steady-state hydraulic heads is insufficient to jointly estimate the aquifer anisotropy together with the aquifer and riverbed hydraulic conductivities and that transient data can help to reduce the predictive uncertainty to a greater extent. The outcomes of the synthetic analysis are applied to the calibration of a dynamic and anisotropic alluvial aquifer in Switzerland (The Rhône River). The results of the synthetic and real world modeling and calibration exercises documented herein provide insight on future data acquisition as well as modeling and calibration strategies for these environments. They also provide an incentive for evaluation and estimation of commonly made simplifying assumptions in order to prevent underestimation of the predictive uncertainty.  相似文献   

Beach recovery from extreme storm activity during the 2013–14 winter along the Atlantic coast of Europe     

Guillaume Dodet  Bruno Castelle  Gerd Masselink  Timothy Scott  Mark Davidson  France Floc'h  Derek Jackson  Serge Suanez 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2019,44(1):393-401

The storm sequence of the 2013–14 winter left many beaches along the Atlantic coast of Europe in their most eroded state for decades. Understanding how beaches recover from such extreme events is essential for coastal managers, especially in light of potential regional increases in storminess due to climate change. Here we analyse a unique dataset of decadal beach morphological changes along the west coast of Europe to investigate the post-2013–14 winter recovery. We show that the recovery signature is site specific and multi-annual, with one studied beach fully recovered after 2 years, and the others only partially recovered after 4 years. During the recovery phase, winter waves primarily control the timescales of beach recovery, as energetic winter conditions stall the recovery process whereas moderate winter conditions accelerate it. This inter-annual variability is well correlated with climate indices. On exposed beaches, an equilibrium model showed significant skill in reproducing the post-storm recovery and thus can be used to investigate the recovery process in more detail. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

Quality Assessment of the French OpenStreetMap Dataset   总被引：9，自引：1，他引：8  

Jean‐François Girres  Guillaume Touya 《Transactions in GIS》2010,14(4):435-459

The concept of Volunteered Geographic Information (VGI) has recently emerged from the new Web 2.0 technologies. The OpenStreetMap project is currently the most significant example of a system based on VGI. It aims at producing free vector geographic databases using contributions from Internet users. Spatial data quality becomes a key consideration in this context of freely downloadable geographic databases. This article studies the quality of French OpenStreetMap data. It extends the work of Haklay to France, provides a larger set of spatial data quality element assessments (i.e. geometric, attribute, semantic and temporal accuracy, logical consistency, completeness, lineage, and usage), and uses different methods of quality control. The outcome of the study raises questions such as the heterogeneity of processes, scales of production, and the compliance to standardized and accepted specifications. In order to improve data quality, a balance has to be struck between the contributors' freedom and their respect of specifications. The development of appropriate solutions to provide this balance is an important research issue in the domain of user‐generated content.  相似文献   

Distinctive C isotopic signature distinguishes a novel sea ice biomarker in Arctic sediments and sediment traps     

Simon T. Belt  Guillaume Mass  Lindsay L. Vare  Steven J. Rowland  Michel Poulin  Marie-Alexandrine Sicre  Makoto Sampei  Louis Fortier 《Marine Chemistry》2008,112(3-4):158-167

A C₂₅ highly branched isoprenoid (HBI) monoene hydrocarbon, designated IP₂₅, has been proposed previously to originate from diatoms living in Arctic sea ice, while the presence of IP₂₅ in sediments has been suggested to be a proxy for the occurrence of former Arctic sea ice. Here, we show that the ¹³C isotopic composition of IP₂₅ in sea ice, in sediment trap material collected under sea ice, and in high latitude northern sediments, is distinctive (isotopically ‘heavy’) and distinguishable from that of organic matter of planktonic or terrigenous origin. Mean δ¹³C values for IP₂₅ were − 22.3 ± 0.4‰ (sea ice), − 19.6 ± 1.1‰ (sediment traps) and − 19.3 ± 2.3‰ (sediments). These measurements, therefore, support further the proposed use of IP₂₅ as an Arctic sea ice proxy.  相似文献   

Optical long baseline intensity interferometry: prospects for stellar physics     

Jean-Pierre Rivet  Farrokh Vakili  Olivier Lai  David Vernet  Mathilde Fouché  William Guerin  Guillaume Labeyrie  Robin Kaiser 《Experimental Astronomy》2018,46(3):531-542

More than sixty years after the first intensity correlation experiments by Hanbury Brown and Twiss, there is renewed interest for intensity interferometry techniques for high angular resolution studies of celestial sources. We report on a successful attempt to measure the bunching peak in the intensity correlation function for bright stellar sources with 1 meter telescopes (I2C project). We propose further improvements of our preliminary experiments of spatial interferometry between two 1 m telescopes, and discuss the possibility to export our method to existing large arrays of telescopes.  相似文献   

Origin and significance of cosmogenic signatures in vesicles of lunar basalt 15016     

David V. Bekaert  Guillaume Avice  Bernard Marty 《Meteoritics & planetary science》2018,53(6):1238-1251

Lunar basalt 15016 (~3.3 Ga) is among the most vesicular (50% by volume) basalts recovered by the Apollo missions. We investigated the possible occurrence of indigenous lunar nitrogen and noble gases trapped in vesicles within basalt 15016, by crushing several cm-sized chips. Matrix/mineral gases were also extracted from crush residues by fusion with a CO₂ laser. No magmatic/primordial component could be identified; all isotope compositions, including those of vesicles, pointed to a cosmogenic origin. We found that vesicles contained ~0.2%, ~0.02%, ~0.002%, and ~0.02% of the total amount of cosmogenic ²¹Ne, ³⁸Ar, ⁸³Kr, and ¹²⁶Xe, respectively, produced over the basalt's 300 Myr of exposure. Diffusion/recoil of cosmogenic isotopes from the basaltic matrix/minerals to intergrain joints and vesicles is discussed. The enhanced proportion of cosmogenic Xe isotopes relative to Kr detected in vesicles could be the result of kinetic fractionation, through which preferential retention of Xe isotopes over Kr within vesicles might have occurred during diffusion from the vesicle volume to the outer space through microleaks. This study suggests that cosmogenic loss, known to be significant for ³He and ²¹Ne, and to a lesser extent for ³⁶Ar (Signer et al. 1977 ), also occurs to a negligible extent for the heaviest noble gases Kr and Xe.  相似文献   

Recent transfer of coastal sediments to the Laurentian Channel,Lower St. Lawrence Estuary (Eastern Canada), through submarine canyon and fan systems     

Hubert Gagné  Patrick Lajeunesse  Guillaume St-Onge  Andrée Bolduc 《Geo-Marine Letters》2009,29(3):191-200

Multibeam sonar data, acoustic sub-bottom profiles and box cores were used to study the activity of submarine canyons and fans near the city of Les Escoumins, on the North Shore of the Lower St. Lawrence Estuary (Eastern Canada). The multibeam data were used to generate a high-resolution digital terrain model that reveals the presence of a large number of canyons and fans along the northern slopes of the Laurentian Channel. This paper focuses on two of the larger canyons, and their associated submarine fans. The sub-bottom profiles on the fans reveal high-amplitude reflections at the sediment/water interface and near the seafloor surface, indicating the occurrence of layers of coarse material. A turbidite was observed in a box core sampled in one of the fans, confirming the nature of the coarse layer. Geophysical and sedimentological data indicate that the canyons and fans play an important role in transferring coastal sandy sediments to the deeper marine environments by longshore drift-initiated turbidity flows, and thereby contribute to the negative sediment budget along the coast. The morphology of the canyons indicates that they were produced by a combination of erosive turbidity flows and retrogressive failures. The two box cores sampled on the fans reveal a recent (~last 60 years) quasi-exponential increase in sand content near the surface of the cores, possibly reflecting recent deforestation and/or increased coastal erosion.  相似文献