Sediment transport and morphology at the surf zone of Presque Isle, Lake Erie, Pennsylvania     

Dag Nummedal  David L. Sonnenfeld  Kent Taylor 《Marine Geology》1984,60(1-4):99-122

A four-year investigation of surf zone sedimentation at Presque Isle, Pennsylvania, was undertaken in preparation for the design of a segmented breakwater system. Sediment transport calculations were based on hind-cast annual wave power statistics and “calibrated” by known accretion rates at the downdrift spit terminus. 30,000 m³ of sediment reaches the peninsula annually from updrift beaches. The transport volume increases downdrift due to shoreface erosion and retreat of the peninsular neck. At the most exposed point on Presque Isle (the lighthouse) the annual transport is 209,000 m³. East of the lighthouse is a zone of net shoreface accretion as the longshore transport rate progressively decreases.

The downdrift variation in sediment supply, combined with increasing refraction and attenuation of the dominant westerly storm waves produce a systematic change in prevailing surf zone morphology. Storms produce a major longshore bar and trough along the exposed peninsular neck. The wave energy during non-storm periods is too low to significantly alter the bar which consequently becomes a permanent feature. The broad shoreface and reduced wave energy level east of the lighthouse produce a morphology characterized by large crescentic outer bars, transverse bars, and megacusps along the beach. At the sheltered and rapidly prograding eastern spit terminus the prevalent beach morphology is that of a ridge and runnel system in front of a megacuspate shore.

The morphodynamic surf zone model developed for oceanic beaches in Australia is used as a basis for interpretation of shoreface morphologic variability at Presque Isle. In spite of interference by major shoreline stabilization structures, and differences between oceanic and lake wave spectra, the nearshore bar field at Presque Isle does closely correspond to the Australian model.  相似文献   

On a theoretical model of rough turbulent wave boundary layers     

Dag Myrhaug 《Ocean Engineering》1982,9(6):547-565

An analytical theory which describes the motion in a turbulent wave boundary layer near a rough sea bottom by using a two-layer time invariant eddy viscosity model is presented. The eddy viscosity in the inner layer increases quadratically with the height above the sea bottom. In the outer layer the eddy viscosity is taken as a constant. The mean velocity and shear stress profiles, the bottom shear stress and the bottom friction coefficient are presented, and comparisons are made with experimental results.  相似文献   

Effects of sea roughness and atmospheric stability on wind wave growth     

Dag Myrhaug  Olav H. Slaattelid 《Ocean Engineering》2002,29(9):1133-1143

The paper considers the effects of sea roughness and atmospheric stability on the wind wave growth by using the logarithmic boundary layer profile including a stability function, as well as adopting Toba et al.'s [J. Phys. Ocean. 34 (1990) 705] significant wave height formula combined with some commonly used sea surface roughness formulations. The wind wave growth is represented by the non-dimensional total wave energy relative to that for neutral stability used by Young [Coast. Engng 34 (1998) 23]. For a given velocity at the 10 m elevation, spectral peak period and stability parameter, the wind wave growth is determined.  相似文献   

Long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses beneath random waves     

Dag Myrhaug  Edmond H. Hansen 《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)

The long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses under random waves is presented. The approach combines short-term distribution of maximum bottom shear stresses with a joint frequency table of significant wave height and peak period. An example of application is given where the long-term probability of exceeding a given level of the maximum bottom shear stress in the central North Sea is presented. The example includes estimation of the return period of the critical shear stress for sheet flow conditions, as well as the bottom shear stresses associated with the 1, 10 and 100 years return periods.  相似文献   

Control of barrier island shape by inlet sediment bypassing: East Frisian Islands, West Germany     

Duncan M Fitzgerald  Shea Penland  Dag Nummedal 《Marine Geology》1984,60(1-4):355-376

A study of the East Frisian Islands has shown that the plan form of these islands can be explained by processes of inlet sediment bypassing. This island chain is located on a high wave energy, high tide range shoreline where the average deep-water significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 m at Juist to 2.9 m at Wangerooge. An abundant sediment supply and a strong eastward component of wave power (4.4 × 10³ W m⁻¹) have caused a persistent eastward growth of the barrier islands. The eastward extension of the barriers has been accommodated more by inlet narrowing, than by inlet migration.

It is estimated from morphological evidence that a minimum of 2.7 × 10⁵ m³ of sand is delivered to the inlets each year via the easterly longshore transport system. Much of this sand ultimately bypasses the inlets in the form of large, migrating swash bars. The location where the swash bars attach to the beach is controlled by the amount of overlap of the ebb-tidal delta along the downdrift inlet shoreline. The configuration of the ebbtidal delta, in turn, is a function of inlet size and position of the main ebb channel. The swash bar welding process has caused preferential beach nourishment and historical shoreline progradation. Along the East Frisian Islands this process has produced barrier islands with humpbacked, bulbous updrift and bulbous downdrift shapes. The model of barrier island development presented in this paper not only explains well the configuration of the German barriers but also the morphology of barriers along many other mixed energy coasts.  相似文献   

Insilico evaluation of plant genetic resources to search for traits for adaptation to climate change     

Abdallah Bari  Hamid Khazaei  Frederick L. Stoddard  Kenneth Street  Mikko J. Sillanpää  Yogen P. Chaubey  Selvadurai Dayanandan  Dag T. F. Endresen  Eddy De Pauw  Ardeshir B. Damania 《Climatic change》2016,134(4):667-680

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Seabed shear stresses under irregular waves plus current from Monte Carlo simulations of parameterized models     

Lars Erik Holmedal  Dag Myrhaug  Hvard Rue 《Coastal Engineering》2000,39(2-4)

Shear stresses on a rough seabed under irregular waves plus current are calculated. Parameterized models valid for regular waves plus current have been used in Monte Carlo simulations, assuming the wave amplitudes to be Rayleigh-distributed. Numerical estimates of the probability distribution functions are presented. For waves only, the shear stress maxima follow a Weibull distribution, while for waves plus current, both the maximum and time-averaged shear stresses are well represented by a three-parameter Weibull distribution. The behaviour of the maximum shear stresses under a wide range of wave-current conditions has been investigated, and it appears that under certain conditions, the current has a significant influence on the maximum shear stresses. Results of comparison between predictions and measurements of the maximum bottom shear stresses from laboratory and field experiments are presented.  相似文献   

Simulated wind-generated inertial oscillations compared to current measurements in the northern North Sea     

Kjersti Bruserud  Sverre Haver  Dag Myrhaug 《Ocean Dynamics》2018,68(6):645-661

Measured current speed data show that episodes of wind-generated inertial oscillations dominate the current conditions in parts of the northern North Sea. In order to acquire current data of sufficient duration for robust estimation of joint metocean design conditions, such as wind, waves, and currents, a simple model for episodes of wind-generated inertial oscillations is adapted for the northern North Sea. The model is validated with and compared against measured current data at one location in the northern North Sea and found to reproduce the measured maximum current speed in each episode with considerable accuracy. The comparison is further improved when a small general background current is added to the simulated maximum current speeds. Extreme values of measured and simulated current speed are estimated and found to compare well. To assess the robustness of the model and the sensitivity of current conditions from location to location, the validated model is applied at three other locations in the northern North Sea. In general, the simulated maximum current speeds are smaller than the measured, suggesting that wind-generated inertial oscillations are not as prominent at these locations and that other current conditions may be governing. Further analysis of the simulated current speed and joint distribution of wind, waves, and currents for design of offshore structures will be presented in a separate paper.  相似文献   

Configuration,history and impact of the Norwegian Channel Ice Stream     

Hans Petter Sejrup  Eiliv Larsen  Haflidi Haflidason  Ida M. Berstad  Berit O. Hjelstuen  Hafdis E. Jonsdottir  Edward L. King  Jon Landvik  Oddvar Longva  Atle Nygrd  Dag Ottesen  Stle Raunholm  Leif Rise  Knut Stalsberg 《Boreas: An International Journal of Quaternary Research》2003,32(1):18-36

The Norwegian Channel between Skagerrak, in the southeast, and the continental margin of the northern North Sea, in the northwest, is the result of processes related to repeated ice stream activity through the last 1.1 m yr. In such periods the Skagerrak Trough (700 m deep) has acted as a confluence area for glacial ice from southeastern Norway, southern Sweden and parts of the Baltic. Possibly related to the threshold in the Norwegian Channel off Jæren (250 m deep), the ice stream, on a number of occasions over the last 400 ka, inundated the coastal lowlands and left an imprint of NW‐oriented ice directional features (drumlins, stone orientations in tills and striations). Marine interstadial sediments found up to 200 m a.s.l. on Jæren have been suggested to reflect glacial isostasy related to the Norwegian Channel Ice Stream (NCIS). In the channel itself, the ice stream activity is evidenced by mega‐scale glacial lineations on till surfaces. As a result of subsidence, the most complete sedimentary records of early phases of the NCIS are preserved close to the continental margin in the North Sea Fan region. The strongest evidence for ice stream erosion during the last glacial phase is found in the Skagerrak. On the continental slope the ice stream activity is evidenced by the large North Sea Fan, which is mainly a result of deposition of glacial‐fed debris flows. Northwards of the North Sea Fan, rapid deposition of meltwater plume deposits, possibly related to the NCIS, is detected as far north as the Vøring Plateau. The NCIS system offers a unique possibility to study ice stream related processes and the impact the ice stream development had on open ocean sedimentation and circulation.  相似文献   

An experimental study of water table recharge by seepage losses from a ditch with intermittent flow     

C. Dagès  M. Voltz  J. G. Lacas  O. Huttel  S. Negro  X. Louchart 《水文研究》2008,22(18):3555-3563

Farmed catchments in the Mediterranean area often exhibit dense networks of ditches which are also preferential zones of water table recharge, and thereby of groundwater contamination. This study presents an experimental analysis of seepage losses and related groundwater recharge patterns during a typical Mediterranean runoff event at the scale of a ditch located above a shallow water table. The objectives were (i) to evaluate the patterns of water table recharge by seepage in a ditch, (ii) to study the main flow processes occurring during recharge, and (iii) to estimate solute propagation in case of contaminated flow in the ditch. The field observation indicated three major points. Firstly, they showed that seepage losses during a runoff event in a ditch can rapidly lead to a significant recharge of a shallow water table. Secondly, the recharge induces a groundwater mound much larger than the event plume. The infiltrated water and the accompanying solutes remained in the vicinity of the ditch. The patterns of groundwater recharge and contamination appeared very different. Lastly, both unsaturated and saturated‐piston flow processes were observed which suggests that a variably‐saturated flow modelling approach ought to be used to simulate the ditch‐water shallow table interaction. Finally, the study indicates that the patterns of water table recharge and contamination in Mediterranean catchments with dense ditches network vary largely in space and time, and will require dense monitoring networks to estimate the evolution of the average contamination levels. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献