The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface     

P.K. Tonnon  L.C. van Rijn  D.J.R. Walstra 《Coastal Engineering》2007

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).  相似文献   

Spatial variation in abundance and catch composition of Cancer pagurus in Norwegian waters: biological reasoning and implications for assessment     

Woll  Astrid K.; van der Meeren  Gro I.; Fossen  Inge 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2006,63(3):421-433

  相似文献   

Trace element fractionation and distribution in turbidites,homogeneous and pelagic deposits; the Zaire Fan,Southeast Atlantic Ocean     

Tjeerd C. E. van Weering  Gerard Th. Klaver 《Geo-Marine Letters》1985,5(3):165-170

In turbidites, homogeneous and pelagic deposits of the Zaire Fan Th, La, Sm, and Rb and to a lesser extent Yb and Ta correlate strongly. La, Sm, Yb, Rb, Ta, and Th increase two-fold in Te3 turbidite intervals relative to Te 1 due to an increase in clay fraction with which these elements occur associated preferentially.Hf and Zr are anomalously high in Tel and Tel intervals which is probably a result of mineral separation. Zr is absent in Te3 intervals and the homogenous and pelagic deposits. Ba, Br. and U are lowest in turbidites and highest in homogenous continental slope deposits which is probably caused by upwelling. Cc anomalies may be related to the crystallinity of smectite.  相似文献   

Stability analysis of a two-inlet bay system     

J. van de Kreeke 《Coastal Engineering》1990,14(6)

The stability analysis for a double-inlet bay system is applied to an inlet system resembling Big Marco Pass and Capri Pass on the lower west coast of Florida. Since the opening of Capri Pass in 1967, the length of Big Marco Pass has increased from 2000 m in 1967 to 3000 m in 1988 and the cross-sectional area has decreased from 1200 m² in 1967 to 1000 m² in 1988. Since 1967, the cross-sectional area of Capri Pass has steadily increased and in 1988 was 700 m². Tides off the inlets are of the mixed type with a diurnal range of 1 m. The gross littoral transport rate in the vicinity of the inlets is estimated at 150,000 m³ yr⁻¹.For each inlet the maximum tidal velocities are calculated as a function of the gorge cross-sectional areas using a lumped-parameter model to describe the hydrodynamics of the flow. In the model it is assumed that the bay level fluctuates uniformly and the bay surface area remains constant. The velocities are used to calculate the tidal maximum of the bottom shear stress in each inlet as a function of the cross-sectional areas of the two inlets (=closure surface). Values of the equilibrium shear stress are derived from an empirical relationship between cross-sectional area and tidal prism for stable inlets along the west coast of Florida. Closure surfaces and equilibrium stress values are calculated for values of friction factors ranging from F=4×10⁻³ to F=6×10⁻³. Using the closure surfaces and equilibrium stress values, the equilibrium flow curve for each inlet is determined. The equilibrium flow curve represents the locus of the combination of cross-sectional areas for which the actual bottom shear stress in the inlet equals the equilibrium shear stress.Based on the equilibrium flow curves and the known values of the cross-sectional areas of the two inlets in 1988, it is expected that, ultimately, Big Marco Pass will close and Capri Pass will remain as the sole inlet with a cross-sectional area of 1250 m² and a maximum tidal velocity pertaining to a diurnal tide of 0.85 m s⁻¹.  相似文献   

Diet shifts of Caribbean grunts (Haemulidae) and snappers (Lutjanidae) and the relation with nursery-to-coral reef migrations     

E. Cocheret de la Morinire  B. J. A. Pollux  I. Nagelkerken  G. van der Velde 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,57(5-6):1079-1089

The spatial size distribution of grunts and snappers have previously indicated the separation of juveniles in nursery habitats from the adults on the coral reef. This implies life cycle migrations from nursery habitats (such as seagrass beds and mangroves) to the coral reef. If diet shifts are related to such migrations, then the diets of these fish must change before or around the fish size at which such migrations take place. A wide size range of juveniles of two grunt species (Haemulon sciurus and Haemulon flavolineatum) and of two snapper species (Lutjanus apodus and Ocyurus chrysurus) were caught in seagrass beds and mangroves, and their gut contents identified and quantified. Regression analysis between fish size and dietary importance of small crustaceans showed a negative relationship in all four species. Positive relations were found for H. sciurus, L. apodus and O. chrysurus between fish length and the dietary importance of decapods, and for L. apodusand O. chrysurus between fish length and prey fish importance. Critical changes in the fish diets with fish size were examined by application of a Canonical Correspondence Analysis (CCA). The CCA yielded three clusters of size-classes of fishes with similar diets, and application of a Mantel test showed that each of these clusters had significantly different diets, and that each cluster diet was significantly specialised. The size at which a fish species ‘switched’ from one cluster to another was compared with size-at-maturity data and with the typical size at which these species migrate from the nursery habitats to the coral reef. H. sciurus and H. flavolineatum may be prompted to migrate from the nursery habitats to coral reef habitats because of dietary changes, or because of the development of the gonads. For L. apodus and O. chrysurus, a dietary changeover forms a more likely explanation for nursery-to-reef migrations than does sexual maturation because these species reach maturity at sizes much larger than the maximum size of individuals found in nursery habitats. Although other factors may theoretically initiate or promote the migration patterns, the results of this study indicate that ontogenetic dietary changes may crucially influence the nursery-to-coral reef migrations of these reef fish species.  相似文献   

Distribution of trace and major elements in sediment and pore waters of the Lena Delta and Laptev Sea   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Rob F. Nolting  Maarten van Dalen  Willem Helder 《Marine Chemistry》1996,53(3-4)

Sediment cores collected during the SPASIBA expedition in 1991 were analysed for their trace- and major element concentrations. Leachable (0.1 N HCl) as well as residual concentrations were determined. Fe and Mn were measured in the interstitial waters to characterize redox conditions. Lateral distribution patterns of solid phase Cu, Cd, Ni, Pb and Zn show a small increase in concentration from the Lena Delta in seaward direction. In general concentrations of these metals are very low and similar to natural background values. With some exceptions, solid phase profiles with depth of all investigated elements do not show strong variations. No enrichment of Pb and Zn in surface layers was found. Remobilization processes and transport of particles enriched in Mn are responsible for Mn accumulation in a particular area. Pore-water concentrations of dissolved Mn in the latter sediments are very high (> 700 μM) and suggest strong Mn reduction directly below the sediment-water interface. In contrast to Mn, the depth profiles of Cd show a surface layer with lower concentrations and an increase deeper down the sediment. The C/N ratio in the sediment decreases from 13 in the Lena mouth to 9 in the more marine part of the Laptev Sea. Surface sediments in the Laptev Sea are very uniform and homogeneous and show only small concentration gradients.  相似文献   

Spatial variation of the intertidal sediments and macrozoo-benthic assemblages along Eighty-mile Beach, North-western Australia   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Pieter J.C. Honkoop  Grant B. Pearson  Marc S.S. Lavaleye  Theunis Piersma   《Journal of Sea Research》2006,55(4):278-291

The extensive intertidal flats along Eighty-mile Beach in North-western Australia appear to be monotonous and homogeneous and seem ideally suited to study tidal zonation in macrozoo-benthic communities and their possible correlates with characteristics of the sediment. In October 1999, we sampled benthic invertebrates and sediments at a total of 895 sampling stations distributed over six different locations, each location separated by 15 km of unsampled foreshore along Eighty-mile Beach. To test for the presence or absence of patterns of tidal zonation (distinct height-related zones of specific sediment grain sizes or zoobenthic taxonomic groups) or patchiness (distinct patches of specific sediment grain sizes or zoobenthic taxonomic groups not related to tidal height) each location was divided into three along-shore sections and each section (transect) was examined at two or three tidal heights. Zonation was observed for sediment grain sizes. Sediments were coarser at the highest intertidal level and finer towards the low water line. Benthic assemblages also differed among tidal heights, but in terms of species-composition the differences were not consistent among the locations. Each location supported a unique collection of benthic invertebrates. Therefore the hypothesis of the presence of distinct zones of specific species or zoobenthic taxonomic groups was rejected; the presence of benthic patches was confirmed. The distribution of sediments and the composition of benthic assemblages were surprisingly poorly correlated compared to those reported in 12 previous quantitative studies around the world. One possible explanation might be that super-cyclone Vance, which hit the study-area only six months before this study, contributed to this poor correlation. Alternatively, the poor correlation may indicate that biotic interactions are more important than the assumed abiotic structuring.  相似文献   

Population dynamics of two marine polychaetes: the relative role of density dependence, predation, and winter conditions     

van der Meer  Jaap; Beukema  Jan J; Dekker  Rob 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2000,57(5):1488-1494

  相似文献   

Genetic Relationships Among One Non-Endemic and Two Endemic Mediterranean Triplefin Blennies (Pisces, Blennioidei)   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Gerard J. Geertjes  Albert Kamping  Wilke van Delden  & John J. Videler 《Marine Ecology》2001,22(3):255-265

Abstract. Three triplefin blennies occur sympatrically in the Mediterranean Sea; Tripterygion tripteronotus and T. melanurus are endemic, whereas T. delaisi is also found in the Eastern Atlantic. Although very similar in morphology, ecology and behaviour, some striking differences exist among reproductive strategies. Several authors proposed hypotheses on the evolution of these species. In order to enhance insight into the genetic structure of this genus, an enzyme electrophoretic survey was performed. Samples of 40 to 45 specimens of each species were collected near Calvi (Corsica, France). Twenty-four enzyme loci were analysed, of which 17 appeared polymorphic. T. delaisi showed a high level of average observed heterozygosity (H_o) of 0.140, as opposed to very low levels of 0.009 and 0.021 in T. tripteronotus and T. melanurus , respectively. Nei's genetic distance was 0.21 between T. delaisi and T. tripteronotus , 0.35 between T. delaisi and T. melanurus and 0.45 between T. tripteronotus and T. melanurus . We hypothesise that divergence of these species started before the Pleistocene and that the endemic species survived the Pleistocene glaciations in refugia within the Mediterranean. The possibility that T. tripteronotus and T. delaisi diverged through sympatric speciation is discussed.  相似文献   

The dimensions of sand ripples in full-scale oscillatory flows   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

T. O'Donoghue  J.S. Doucette  J.J. van der Werf  J.S. Ribberink 《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(12):997-1012

New large-scale experiments have been carried out in two oscillatory flow tunnels to study ripple regime sand suspension and net sand transport processes in full-scale oscillatory flows. The paper focuses on ripple dimensions and the new data are combined with existing data to make a large dataset of ripple heights and lengths for flows with field-scale amplitudes and periods. A feature of the new experiments is a focus on the effect of flow irregularity. The combined dataset is analysed to examine the range of hydraulic conditions under which oscillatory flow ripples occur, to examine the effects of flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality on ripple dimensions and to test and improve existing methods for predicting ripple dimensions.The following are the main conclusions. (1) The highest velocities in a flow time-series play an important role in determining the type of bedform occurring in oscillatory flow. Bedform regime is well characterised by mobility number based on maximum velocity in the case of regular flow and based on the mean of the highest one tenth peak velocities in the case of irregular flow. (2) For field-scale flows, sand size is the primary factor determining whether equilibrium ripples will be 2D or 3D. 2D ripples occur when the sand D₅₀ ≥ 0.30 mm and 3D ripples occur when D₅₀ ≤ 0.22 mm (except when the flow orbital diameter is low). (3) Ripple type (2D or 3D) is the same for regular and irregular flows and ripple dimensions produced by equivalent regular and irregular flows follow a similar functional dependence on mobility number, with mobility number based on maximum velocity in the case of regular flow and based on the mean of the highest one tenth velocities in the case of irregular flow. For much of the ripple regime, ripple dimensions have weak dependency on mobility number and ripple dimensions are similar for regular and irregular flows with the same flow orbital amplitude. However, differences in ripples produced by equivalent regular and irregular flows become significant at the high mobility end of the ripple regime. (4) Ripple dimensions predicted using the Wiberg and Harris formulae are in poor agreement with measured ripple dimensions from the large-scale experiments. Predictions based on the Mogridge et al. and the Nielsen formulae show better overall agreement with the data but also show systematic differences in cases of 3D ripples and ripples generated by irregular flows. (5) Based on the combined large-scale data, modifications to the Nielsen ripple dimension equations are proposed for the heights and lengths of 2D ripples. The same equations apply to regular and irregular flows, but with mobility number appropriately defined. 3D ripples are generally smaller than 2D ripples and estimates of 3D ripple height and length may be obtained by applying multipliers of 0.55 and 0.73 respectively to the 2D formulae. The proposed modified Nielsen formulae provide an improved fit to the large-scale data, accounting for flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality.  相似文献