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Doklady Earth Sciences - Cases of “freak waves” that occurred in the period from 2011 to 2018 and information on which is currently available are analyzed. In total, 210 cases of... 相似文献
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Ira Didenkulova Efim Pelinovsky Tarmo Soomere 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》2008,165(11-12):2249-2264
The problem of tsunami wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. We present an analysis of the runup characteristics for various shapes of the incoming symmetrical solitary tsunami waves. It will be demonstrated that the extreme (maximal) wave characteristics on a beach (runup and draw-down heights, runup and draw-down velocities and breaking parameter) are weakly dependent on the shape of incident wave if the definition of the “significant” wavelength determined on the 2/3 level of the maximum height is used. The universal analytical expressions for the extreme wave characteristics are derived for the runup of the solitary pulses. They can be directly applicable for tsunami warning because in many cases the shape of the incident tsunami wave is unknown. 相似文献
13.
I. I. Didenkulova A. V. Sergeeva E. N. Pelinovsky S. N. Gurbatov 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2010,46(4):530-532
A run-up of irregular long sea waves on a beach with a constant slope is studied within the framework of the nonlinear shallow-water
theory. This problem was solved earlier for deterministic waves, both periodic and pulse ones, using the approach based on
the Legendre transform. Within this approach, it is possible to get an exact solution for the displacement of a moving shoreline
in the case of irregular-wave run-up as well. It is used to determine statistical moments of run-up characteristics. It is
shown that nonlinearity in a run-up wave does not affect the velocity moments of the shoreline motion but influences the moments
of mobile shoreline displacement. In particular, the randomness of a wave field yields an increase in the average water level
on the shore and decrease in standard deviation. The asymmetry calculated through the third moment is positive and increases
with the amplitude growth. The kurtosis calculated through the fourth moment turns out to be positive at small amplitudes
and negative at large ones. All this points to the advantage of the wave run-up on the shore as compared to a backwash at
least for small-amplitude waves, even if an incident wave is a Gaussian stationary process with a zero mean. The probability
of wave breaking during run-up and the applicability limits for the derived equations are discussed. 相似文献
14.
The influence of the incident wave form on the extreme (maximal) characteristics of a wave at a beach (run-up and draw-down heights, run-up and draw-down velocities, and the breaking parameter) is studied. It is suggested to use in the calculations the definition of wavelength at a level of 2/3 of the maximal height, which to a certain degree correlates with the definition of the significant wavelength accepted in oceanology. Such a definition allows us to unify the relations for extreme run-up characteristics so that the influence of the incident wave form becomes insignificant. The obtained universal relations can be used for the estimates of run-up characteristics when the exact information about the form of the incident wave is not available. 相似文献
15.
Analytical Solutions for Tsunami Waves Generated by Submarine Landslides in Narrow Bays and Channels
Analytical theory of tsunami wave generation by submarine landslides is extended to the case of narrow bays and channels of different geometry, in the shallow-water theory framework. New analytical solutions are obtained. For a number of bottom configurations, the wave field can be found explicitly in the form of the Duhamel integral. It is described by three waves: one forced wave propagating together with the landslide and two free waves propagating in opposite directions. The cases for bays with triangular (V-shaped bay), parabolic (U-shaped bay), and rectangular cross-sections are discussed in detail. The dynamics of the offshore-propagating wave in linearly inclined bays of different cross-section are also studied asymptotically for the resonant moving landslide. Different cases of landslides of increasing and decreasing volume are considered. It is shown that even if the landslide is moving under fully resonant conditions, the amplitude of the propagating tsunami wave may still be bounded, depending on the type of the landslide. 相似文献
16.
The random long wave runup on a beach of constant slope is studied in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow water theory. These solutions are used for calculation of the statistical characteristics of the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline and its horizontal velocity. It is shown that probability characteristics of the runup heights and extreme values of the shoreline velocity coincide in the linear and nonlinear theory. If the incident wave is represented by a narrow-band Gaussian process, the runup height is described by a Rayleigh distribution. The significant runup height can also be found within the linear theory of long wave shoaling and runup. Wave nonlinearity nearshore does not affect the Gaussian probability distribution of the velocity of the moving shoreline. However the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline becomes non-Gaussian due to the wave nonlinearity. Its statistical moments are calculated analytically. It is shown that the mean water level increases (setup), the skewness is always positive and kurtosis is positive for weak amplitude waves and negative for strongly nonlinear waves. The probability of the wave breaking is also calculated and conditions of validity of the analytical theory are discussed. The spectral and statistical characteristics of the moving shoreline are studied in detail. It is shown that the probability of coastal floods grows with an increase in the nonlinearity. Randomness of the wave field nearshore leads to an increase in the wave spectrum width. 相似文献
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18.
The data of rogue wave accidents reported in mass media during 2006–2010 years are collected and analysed. The collection
includes 106 events, which are classified by their validity as true (78) and possible (28) and by the location of their occurrence:
we distinguish deep, shallow and coastal rogue waves, which occurred in deep/shallow waters or at the coast. The validity
of the event has been estimated by the rogue wave height, which should be twice larger than the significant wave height (significant
wave height has been taken from satellite data), and/or by the associated hazard. It is shown that rogue waves cause especially
high damage in shallow waters and at the coast. 相似文献
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Wave run-up on a sea wall built on a convex bottom profile is studied in the framework of linear shallow water theory. When the wall is located in “deeper water,” a wave is reflected from the wall without changing its shape and phase, which is fully consistent with classical considerations. If the wall is shifted towards the shore, the shape of the wave changes in a complex way. Note that the wave phase changes to the opposite in the limiting case when the wall is located right on the shore. The role of nonlinear effects is studied by means of numerical simulations using nonlinear shallow water theory. It is shown that the contribution of nonlinear effects and breaking is high on a convex-shaped beach, which makes the structure of the wave field rather complicated. 相似文献