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21.
Wave run-up on a sea wall built on a convex bottom profile is studied in the framework of linear shallow water theory. When the wall is located in “deeper water,” a wave is reflected from the wall without changing its shape and phase, which is fully consistent with classical considerations. If the wall is shifted towards the shore, the shape of the wave changes in a complex way. Note that the wave phase changes to the opposite in the limiting case when the wall is located right on the shore. The role of nonlinear effects is studied by means of numerical simulations using nonlinear shallow water theory. It is shown that the contribution of nonlinear effects and breaking is high on a convex-shaped beach, which makes the structure of the wave field rather complicated. 相似文献
22.
Didenkulova E. G. Pelinovsky E. N. Talipova T. G. 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2020,56(6):556-563
Izvestiya, Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics - Numerical simulation is used to study the statistical characteristics of an ensemble of internal wave solitons propagating under conditions close to... 相似文献
23.
Reflection of long sea waves from an underwater slope described by a power law is studied within the shallow water theory.
The slope is connected with the flat bottom. This model allows us to estimate the roles of a pointwise reflection from the
inflection point of the bottom profile and distributed reflection at the underwater slope. The case of the underwater slope
described by the so-called nonreflecting beach (h(x) ∼ x
4/3, where h is the depth of the basin and x is the coordinate) when the wave is reflected only from the inflection point (pointwise reflection) is specially considered.
The reflection and transmission coefficients over the bottom topography were calculated, and it was shown that the sum of
the squared absolute values of these values differs from unity for all profiles except the nonreflecting one. This difference
is related to the distributed re-reflections (resonances) over the underwater slope that lead to the deviations in the wave
height from the known Green’s law. 相似文献