Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone     

Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor  Hohai University  Nanjing Engineer  The Investigation  Design Institute  Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province  Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.  相似文献   

远洋梭子蟹ITS-1基因片段的序列分析     

徐雪娜  吴惠仙  薛俊增  董双林 《海洋学研究》2007,25(4):74-80

采用PCR扩增和序列测定等技术,对远洋梭子蟹Portunus pelagicus核rDNA的第一内转录间隔区(internal transcribed spacer 1,ITS-1)的基因片段进行了初步研究。经PCR扩增和序列测定,得到ITS-1基因片段的碱基序列。该物种ITS-1基因片段的大小为552 bp,碱基A、T、G和C的含量分别为23.00%、25.54%、23.91%和27.54%。同时还对近年来ITS-1在十足目动物分子系统学研究中的应用作一概述并列举了已测出ITS-1序列的十足目动物种类。  相似文献   

渤海湾水环境氮、磷营养盐分布特点   总被引：10，自引：2，他引：10  

秦延文  孟伟  郑丙辉  雷坤  苏一兵  张雷 《海洋学报》2005,27(2):172-176

渤海是一个半封闭的陆架边缘海,主要由辽东湾、渤海湾、莱州湾及中央海区组成,面积为7.7×104 km2,平均水深18 m[1].近些年富含氮、磷营养盐的工农业废水的大量排放使得渤海湾营养盐结构发生了很大变化,同时导致渤海湾局部海域“赤潮”频繁发生.营养物质进入水体后,将会在水与沉积物之间发生迁移,其中一部分可以与钙、铁或铝络合形成沉淀,或吸附到矿物颗粒的表面而转移到沉积物中.近海沉积物可以看作营养物质的“蓄积库”.沉积物中营养物质的再生,对水体中营养盐的收支和营养盐循环动力学有着及其重要的作用[2].  相似文献   

渤海三维海洋温度和海流数值预报   总被引：3，自引：2，他引：3  

刘钦政  张建华  刘煜  王旭  李燕  白珊  吴辉碇 《海洋预报》2005,22(Z1):27-34

"十·五"期间,我国开展了三维海洋温度和海流数值预报的业务化研究工作.经过3年的努力,渤海三维海洋温度和海流数值预报系统研制完成,并于2003年10月,开始试预报.本文对该预报系统以及运行情况进行了介绍,并分析了所存在的问题和发展方向.  相似文献   

E1 Nio phenomenon in simple ocean data assimilation data     

GUI Maochang  *  WU Lingjuan  . Institute of Oceanology  Chinese Academy of Sciences  Qingdao  China. Laboratory of Numerical Modeling for Atmospheric Sciences  Geophysical Fluid Dynamics  Institute of Atmospheric Physics  Chine-se Academy of Sciences  Beijing  China. Graduate School  Chinese Academy of Sciences  Beijing  China 《海洋学报(英文版)》2005,(4)

1 IntroductionIt is well known that interaction between the trop-ical ocean and atmosphere produces the largest inter-annual climate signal, El Nino-Southern Oscillation(ENSO). In past decades many efforts have been madein understanding and predicting ENSO: such as the hy-pothesis of Bjerknes (1969) that ENSO arises as aself-sustained cycle in which SSTA in the Pacific O-cean causes the trade winds to strengthen or slackenand that this in turn drives the ocean circulation changesthat …  相似文献   

A New Pursuit Mode of Nonlinear Wave Surface     

孙大鹏李玉成  郭海滨 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):257-266

The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy.  相似文献   

Long-Term Effect of TMD on Vibration Control of An MDOF Offshore Fixed Platform     

SHI  Xiang 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(4):481-494

A three-dimensional fixed offshore platform in deep water modeled by the finite element method is studied in this paper. Analysis of the dynamic response of the MDOF structure is realized taking the non-linearity of the wave drag force and the wave-structure interaction into account. The structural response statistics, which have Gaussian distributions, are used to evaluate the vibration effect of the structure without TMD and with TMD. And an optimal method to design TMD controlling the first mode of the multi-mode structure is proposed. Moreover, the probabilities of occurrence of sea states at the platform site are considered for prediction of the long-term effect of a TMD. Simulation results demonstrate that the long-term effect of a well-designed TMD is good and the practical use is possible due to the good stability of its optimal parameters under different sea states.  相似文献   

西洋东大港水道流速垂线分布研究   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

吴德安  张忍顺 《海洋工程》2005,23(1):88-92,96

对辐射沙洲海域东大港4#站位连续2个潮周期的流速测量资料进行了分析、研究,拟合给出了流速垂线分布关系,并根据实际测量资料确定了该站位6个水层的浑水水流尾流函数项表达式。这些表达式表明浑水水流尾流函数是相对深度和摩阻速度的函数。探讨分析了尾流函数的空间分布和潮周期过程。非恒定流的水流尾流函数项的准确表达,对于揭示含沙水流流速结构及水、沙相影响作用规律将起到启发和推动作用。  相似文献   

河口涨落潮槽水动力特征及河槽类型判定   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

刘高峰  沈焕庭  吴加学  吴华林 《海洋学报》2005,27(5):151-156

在前人对河口冲刷槽研究的基础上,选择长江口南支、新桥水道、南小泓和南港主槽作为典型涨、落潮槽研究对象,以2001年洪季和2003年枯季实测资料为根据,比较分析了长江口涨落潮槽的水流、泥沙、优势流和优势沙等动力特征,结果表明用单一因子分析河槽性质不够全面.提出了一个(无量纲因子)河槽类型系数(λ)来综合表述河槽的多种水文泥沙特征,可以较全面地用多个影响因子来合理地判断河槽类型.  相似文献   

9711号北上台风演变及暴雨过程的位涡诊断分析   总被引：6，自引：2，他引：6  

赵宇  吴增茂 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2004,34(1):13-21

通过对 971 1号台风登陆北上穿过山东造成山东特大暴雨过程的湿位涡的分析 ,并从湿位涡的角度研究了台风演变及山东特大暴雨的形成机制 ,揭示了冷空气在台风演变及暴雨过程中的重要作用。结果表明 :倾斜涡度发展是暴雨产生和台风加强的重要机制之一 ,暴雨产生在 θe线陡立密集区内 ;湿位涡在这次暴雨过程中对流层低层具有 MPV1 <0 ,MPV2 >0的特征 ,此次暴雨产生在负的MPV1等值线密集区中 ;对流层上部及平流层下部高位涡的下传使得低层斜压性增大 ,引起低层的对流稳定度减小 ,促使气旋性涡度发展 ,有利于位势不稳定能量的释放 ,使得暴雨增幅 ,导致台风的加强并演变为温带气旋。  相似文献