An empirical formula for estimating the overtopping discharge of wind-waves on a smooth-impermeable-simple slope dyke is derived through model tests in this paper, it can be adopted by related design departments in the determination of the crest elevation of the dyke. 相似文献
A study of the mineralogy of red clay sequences overlying basalt in the Bay of Biscay revealed two successive units: unit one (lower unit) indicates that clay minerals are the result of subaerial weathering of acid or basic continental rocks, occurring in the Galice province (northwest Spain); and unit two (upper unit) consists of fine-grained particles which suggest distinct volcanic activity. Clay materials from the first unit (Paleocene) are deposited in shallow environments, whereas the second unit materials (lower Eocene) Occur in deeper environments followed by neoformation of clay Minerals and concentration of chemical elements (cobalt, nickel, lead, zinc, and barium). 相似文献
The sedimentary record of 130 km of microtidal (0.9 m tidal range) high wave energy (1.5 m average wave height) barrier island shoreline of the Cape Lookout cuspate foreland has been evaluated through examination of 3136 m of subsurface samples from closely spaced drill holes. Holocene sedimentation and coastal evolution has been a function of five major depositional processes: (1) eustatic sea-level rise and barrier-shoreline transgression; (2) lateral tidal inlet migration and reworking of barrier island deposits; (3) shoreface sedimentation and local barrier progradation; (4) storm washover deposition with infilling of shallow lagoons; and (5) flood-tidal delta sedimentation in back-barrier environments.
Twenty-five radiocarbon dates of subsurface peat and shell material from the Cape Lookout area are the basis for a late Holocene sea-level curve. From 9000 to 4000 B.P. eustatic sea level rose rapidly, resulting in landward migration of both barrier limbs of the cuspate foreland. A decline in the rate of sea-level rise since 4000 B.P. resulted in relative shoreline stabilization and deposition of contrasting coastal sedimentary sequences. The higher energy, storm-dominated northeast barrier limb (Core and Portsmouth Banks) has migrated landward producing a transgressive sequence of coarse-grained, horizontally bedded washover sands overlying burrowed to laminated back-barrier and lagoonal silty sands. Locally, ephemeral tidal inlets have reworked the transgressive barrier sequence depositing fining-upward spit platform and channel-fill sequences of cross-bedded, pebble gravel to fine sand and shell. Shoreface sedimentation along a portion of the lower energy, northwest barrier limb (Bogue Banks) has resulted in shoreline progradation and deposition of a coarsening-up sequence of burrowed to cross-bedded and laminated, fine-grained shoreface and foreshore sands. In contrast, the adjacent barrier island (Shackleford Banks) consists almost totally of inlet-fill sediments deposited by lateral tidal inlet migration. Holocene sediments in the shallow lagoons behind the barriers are 5–8 m thick fining-up sequences of interbedded burrowed, rooted and laminated flood-tidal delta, salt marsh, and washover sands, silts and clays.
While barrier island sequences are generally 10 m in thickness, inlet-fill sequences may be as much as 25 m thick and comprise an average of 35% of the Holocene sedimentary deposits. Tidal inlet-fill, back-barrier (including flood-tidal delta) and shoreface deposits are the most highly preservable facies in the wave-dominated barrier-shoreline setting. In the Cape Lookout cuspate foreland, these three facies account for over 80% of the sedimentary deposits preserved beneath the barriers. Foreshore, spit platform and overwash facies account for the remaining 20%. 相似文献
The interannual variations of the monthly sea surface temperature (SST) in the North Pacific (including Equatorial East Pacific) during 1951-1980 are analysed by means of EOF method. The findings are:(1) In the cold and warm ocean current areas, such as the North Pacific Current, the California Current and the Equatorial East Pacific areas, the convergence speeds are the fastest, while in the Kuroshio and the western part of the North Equatorial Current areas they are fast only in winter.(2) The physical features of the first 3 eigenvectors are obvious. The first eigenvector shows that the SST values are high in the south and low in the north in the latitudinal distribution of the SST field. The warm current area, i.e. the northwestern part of the North Pacific is positive and the cold current area, i.e. the southeastern part of the North Pacific including the Eastern Equatorial Pacific is negative. The zero line of the 2nd eigenvector field runs from northeast to southwest, in the same direction as the 相似文献
A modified gravity-type cage, developed by SADCO Shelf Ltd., was examined using numerical and physical models to determine if the cage and mooring system is suitable for an exposed site south of the Isles of Shoals, NH. The 3000-m/sup 3/ SADCO Shelf Submersible Fish Cage has angled stays between the upper framework and the ballasted bottom rim (in addition to net) to resist the horizontal shear deformation. The mooring system consists of three legs-each made up of a taut vertical chain and an angled rope, both leading to deadweight anchors. Normalized response amplitudes (response amplitude operators) were found for motion response in heave, surge and pitch, and load response in the anchor and bridle lines, in regular (single frequency) waves. In addition, a stochastic approach was taken to determine the motion and load transfer functions in random waves using a spectrum representative of seas at the selected site. In general, the system motion had a highly damped response, with no resonant peaks within the wave excitation range of 0.05 to 0.45 Hz. The anchor line force response was at all frequencies below 5 kN per meter of wave amplitude. The physical model tests showed consistently more conservative (larger) results compared to those for the numerical model. 相似文献
It is broadly acknowledged that the precision of satellite-altimeter-measured instantaneous sea surface heights (SSH) is lower in coastal regions than in open oceans, due partly to contamination of the radar return from the coastal sea-surface state and from land topography. This study investigates the behavior of ERS-2 and POSEIDON altimeter waveform data in coastal regions and estimates a boundary around Australia's coasts in which the altimeter range may be poorly estimated by on-satellite tracking software. Over one million 20 Hz ERS-2 (March to April 1999) and POSEIDON (January 1998 to January 1999) radar altimeter waveform data were used over an area extending 350 km offshore Australia. The DS759.2 (5'resolution) ocean depth model and the GSHHS (0.2 km resolution) shoreline model were used together to define the coastal regions. Using the 50% threshold retracking points as the estimates of expected tracking gate, we determined that the sea surface height is contaminated out to maximum distance of between about 8 km and 22 km from the Australian shoreline for ERS-2, depending partly on coastal topography. Using the standard deviation of the mean waveforms as an indication of the general variability of the altimeter returns in the Australian coastal region shows obvious coastal contamination out to about 4 km for both altimeters, and less obvious contamination out to about 8 km for POSEIDON and 10 km for ERS-2. Therefore, ERS-2 and POSEIDON satellite altimeter data should be treated with some caution for distances less than about 22 km from the Australian coast and probably ignored altogether for distances less than 4 km. 相似文献
