Formation of beach cusps in a wave tank     

A. Kaneko 《Coastal Engineering》1985,9(1):81-98

Beach cusps with a longshore spacing of 20 to 150 cm have been built by the continuous action of incident waves on a steep laboratory beach floor covered uniformly with a thin bed of glass beads. Breaking of incident waves was observed to induce vortices on the bed by interacting with swash motion along the beach face. Beach cusps formed when the value of a dimensionless parameter H_b/sgT_i² became smaller than 0.042; H_b is the breaking height of the incident waves, T_i their period, s the beach slope and g the acceleration due to gravity. This critical value occurred at a nearly central part of the generation region 0.003 < H_b/sgT_i² < 0.068 for plunging breakers presented by Galvin (1968). Breaking-wave-induced vortices rather than breaker types controlled the movement of bed material in the nearshore zone. Most of the measured spacings of beach cusps, including previous observations, were in good agreement with half a wavelength of the zero-mode subharmonic edge wave, which is generated on the beach by the refraction of incident waves and has twice the period of the waves. The role of edge waves at each stage of cusp formation still remains as an important problem to be clarified.  相似文献   

The modified Lagrangian equations of general-relativistic hydrodynamics for a nonideal fluid     

Kazuhiko Morita  Noboru Kaneko 《Astrophysics and Space Science》1988,145(2):355-376

The general-relativistic equations of hydrodynamics for a nonideal fluid are derived in the modified Lagrangian form. Together with the zeroth and first moment equations of radiative transfer derived by Morita and Kaneko (1986), the equations provide a complete set of the modified Lagrangian equations of radiation hydrodynamics. The equations of hydrodynamics are specialized for a thermally conducting, Newtonian viscous fluid in the modified Lagrangian form, which are the generalization of the specialrelativistic equations of hydrodynamics derived by Greenberg (1975).  相似文献   

Interannual variability of the Kuroshio transport passing through the 137°E meridian in an OGCM related to the North Pacific windstress     

Yoshinobu Wakata  Takashi Setou  Ikuo Kaneko  Hiroshi Uchida  Shiro Imawaki 《Journal of Oceanography》2006,62(1):25-35

The interannual variability of the Kuroshio volume transport passing through the 137°E meridian south of Japan was simulated with an ocean general circulation model (OGCM). The time series of the Kuroshio volume transport over the 1000 m depth in the OGCM is well reproduced by the one-dimensional quasi-geostrophic (QG) vorticity equation with a windstress forcing. In our analysis of the OGCM and QG results, we found that peaks and troughs of the time series of the Kuroshio volume transport with 2–3 yr time-scale were induced by windstress curl, both local and immediately eastward, whereas longer time-scale variability was also induced by windstress curl near the dateline.  相似文献   

The circulation in the southern Huanghai Sea and northern East China Sea in June 1999   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Yaochu Yuan  Yonggang Liu  Mingyu Zhou  Arata Kaneko  Zhou Yuan  Noriaki Gohda 《海洋学报(英文版)》2003,22(3):321-332

On the basis of hydrographic data and current measurement (the mooring system, vessel-mounted ADCP and toward ADCP) data obtained in June 1999, the circulations in the southern Huang-hai Sea (HS) and northern East China Sea (ECS) are computed by using the modified inverse method. The Kuroshio flows northeastward through eastern part of the investigated region and has the main core at Section PN, a northward flow at the easternmost part of Section PN, a weaker anti-cyclonic eddy between these two northward flows, and a weak cyclonic eddy at the western part of Section PN. The above current structure is one type of the current structures at Section PN in ECS. The net northward volume transport (VT) of the Kuroshio and the offshore branch of Taiwan Warm Current (TWCOB) through Section PN is about 26.2×106m3/s in June 1999. The VT of the inshore branch of Taiwan Warm Current (TWCIB) through the investigated region is about 0.4×106m3/s. The Taiwan Warm Current (TWC) has much effect on the currents over the  相似文献   

A Continuous Mapping of Tidal Current Structures in the Kanmon Strait   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Keisuke?Yamaguchi  Ju?Lin  Arata?KanekoEmail author  Tokuo?Yayamoto  Noriaki?Gohda  Hong-Quang?Nguyen  Hong?Zheng 《Journal of Oceanography》2005,61(2):283-294

Tidal current structures at the Hayatomono-Seto of the Kanmon Strait are mapped continuously during March 17 to 20, 2003, including a spring tide, by the eight coastal acoustic tomography (CAT) systems distributed on both the sides of the strait. Detailed structures of strong tidal currents and their associated vortices are well reconstructed by the inverse analysis of travel-time difference data obtained from the reciprocal sound transmission between the paired CAT systems located at both sides of the strait mainly. The results are well compared to the shipboard acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data at the correlation rate of 0.84/0.82 and the RMS difference of 0.47/0.48 ms⁻¹ for the east-west/north-south current after the selection of good data. During the observation period, the maximum hourly mean volume transport for the upper 7 m layer across the strait reached 13,314 m³ s⁻¹ for the eastward and 5,547 m³ s⁻¹ for the westward. The daily mean transport is directed to the eastward and estimated 1,470 m³ s⁻¹ and 2,140 m³ s⁻¹ for March 18 and 19, respectively, when a spring tide occurs.  相似文献   

Annual variation of the southern boundary current in the Banda Sea   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Fadli Syamsudin  Hendrik M. van Aken  Arata Kaneko 《Dynamics of Atmospheres and Oceans》2010

ADCP measurements in the southern Banda Sea, obtained with the bulk carrier “MS First Jupiter” from 1997 until 2000, have been analysed. The observations reveal the presence of an eastward flowing southern boundary current, bringing water from the Indonesian throughflow towards the connections with the Indian Ocean in Ombai Strait and the Timor Sea. The mean transport in the upper 300 m is estimated to be about 5 Sv, over 50% of the outflow towards the Indian Ocean in this layer through the eastern passages near Timor. The velocity in the boundary current shows a clear annual variation, more or less in phase with the annually varying inflow through Makassar Strait and the outflow near Timor. The phase of the annual variation cannot be explained by the monsoonal variation of the local winds. Therefore this annual variation of the throughflow is probably generated by large-scale forcing. A considerable reduction of the strength of the boundary current was observed in 1998, following the 1997–1998 El Niño with a delay of about half a year. On shorter time scales, Kelvin waves, entering the Banda Sea from the Indian Ocean, cause flow reversals of the boundary current.  相似文献   

Radiocarbon dates of elevated shorelines,Indonesia and Malaysia. Part 1     

H.D. Tjia  Shoji Fujii  Kunihiko Kigoshi  Arata Sugimura  Thomas Zakaria 《Quaternary Research》1972

Four new radiocarbon dates of elevated strandlines in tectonically active areas of eastern Indonesia and East Malaysia indicate average rates of uplift that range between 4.5 and 9 mm annually during the past 24,000 yr. These values are at least three times higher than former estimates from eastern Indonesia. Another radiocarbon date from the south arm of Sulawesi—also tectonically mobile—indicates a rate of uplift of 1.4–2.5 mm per year which corresponds with earlier determinations. This particular case, however, suggests that the sample was probably located close to a north-south axis about which southern Sulawesi was tilted during the Quaternary.  相似文献   

Distribution and characteristics of suspended particulate matter in a heavily eutrophic estuary, Tokyo Bay, Japan   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

Suzumura M  Kokubun H  Arata N 《Marine pollution bulletin》2004,49(5-6):496-503

Bulk suspended particulate matter (SPM), chlorophyll a (Chl a), ignition loss, particulate organic carbon (POC), organic nitrogen, inorganic phosphorus (PIP), and organic phosphorus were investigated in the heavily eutrophic Arakawa River estuary, Japan. Chl a was high (approximately 35 microg l(-1)) in summer and low (approximately 6.7 microg l(-1)) in winter and autumn. POC from living phytoplankton accounted for approximately 34% and approximately 70% of total POC during low- and high-biomass seasons, respectively. During the low-biomass season, detrital POC distribution was conservative, and less reactive, land-derived materials mainly composed particulate organic materials (POM), but complex mixing of land-derived POM and autochthonous planktonic detritus caused nonconservative detrital POC behavior during the high-biomass season. PIP concentration in SPM decreased with increasing salinity, likely by desorption of soluble orthophosphate (ortho-P). The ortho-P released from SPM, 56% of the ortho-P input from the Arakawa River to the bay, was a significant potential source of biologically available phosphorus causing eutrophication of coastal environments.  相似文献   

Aeromagnetic surveys in the seas around Japan in 1980     

S. Utashiro  S. Oshima  T. Kaneko 《Surveys in Geophysics》1984,6(3-4):271-290

Aeromagnetic surveys in the seas around Japan were carried out in 1979 to 1980 by a YS-11 aircraft of the Maritime Safety Agency of Japan using a new type of airborne magnetometer system. The new type of airborne magnetometer system consists of a ring-core type three-component fluxgate magnetometer, an inertial sensing system, a fish-eye camera to measure the true north, an 8-bit microcomputer and a proton magnetometer. The VLF/OMEGA system is used to fix the position of the aircraft. Tracks extended to about 600 nautical miles off the coast of the Japanese islands in the Sea of Japan and the North-West Pacific Ocean. Average spacing between tracks was about 80 miles. The flights were carried out at an altitude of 9500 feet. From the survey results, magnetic charts of the seven geomagnetic elements for 1980 over the sea around Japan were compiled by the method of least squares using a polynomial. Also, the contour charts of secular variation in 1980 were compiled.  相似文献   

Recalibration of mutually consistent garnet–biotite and garnet–cordierite geothermometers     

Yasunari Kaneko  Takashi Miyano 《Lithos》2004,73(3-4):255-269

Garnet–biotite and garnet–cordierite geothermometers have been consistently calibrated, using the results of Fe²⁺–Mg cation exchange experiments and utilizing recently evaluated nonideal mixing properties of garnet. Nonideal mixing parameters of biotite (including Fe, Mg, Al^VI, and Ti) and of cordierite (involving Fe and Mg) are evaluated in terms of iterative multiple least-square regressions of the experimental results. Assuming the presence of ferric Fe in biotite in relation to the coexisting Fe-oxide phases (Case A), and assuming the absence of ferric Fe in biotite (Case B), two formulae of garnet–biotite thermometer have been derived. The garnet–cordierite geothermometer was constructed using Margules parameters of garnet adopted in the garnet–biotite geothermometers. The newly calibrated garnet–biotite and garnet–cordierite thermometers clearly show improved conformity in the calculated temperatures. The thermometers give temperatures that are consistent with each other using natural garnet–biotite–cordierite assemblages within ±50 °C. The effects of ferric Fe in biotite on garnet–biotite thermometry have been evaluated comparing the two calibrations of the thermometer. The effects are significant; it is clarified that taking ferric Fe content in biotite into account leads to less dispersion of thermometric results.  相似文献