The paper considers the effects of sea roughness and atmospheric stability on the wind wave growth by using the logarithmic boundary layer profile including a stability function, as well as adopting Toba et al.'s [J. Phys. Ocean. 34 (1990) 705] significant wave height formula combined with some commonly used sea surface roughness formulations. The wind wave growth is represented by the non-dimensional total wave energy relative to that for neutral stability used by Young [Coast. Engng 34 (1998) 23]. For a given velocity at the 10 m elevation, spectral peak period and stability parameter, the wind wave growth is determined. 相似文献
The long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses under random waves is presented. The approach combines short-term distribution of maximum bottom shear stresses with a joint frequency table of significant wave height and peak period. An example of application is given where the long-term probability of exceeding a given level of the maximum bottom shear stress in the central North Sea is presented. The example includes estimation of the return period of the critical shear stress for sheet flow conditions, as well as the bottom shear stresses associated with the 1, 10 and 100 years return periods. 相似文献
A study of the East Frisian Islands has shown that the plan form of these islands can be explained by processes of inlet sediment bypassing. This island chain is located on a high wave energy, high tide range shoreline where the average deep-water significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 m at Juist to 2.9 m at Wangerooge. An abundant sediment supply and a strong eastward component of wave power (4.4 × 103 W m−1) have caused a persistent eastward growth of the barrier islands. The eastward extension of the barriers has been accommodated more by inlet narrowing, than by inlet migration.
It is estimated from morphological evidence that a minimum of 2.7 × 105 m3 of sand is delivered to the inlets each year via the easterly longshore transport system. Much of this sand ultimately bypasses the inlets in the form of large, migrating swash bars. The location where the swash bars attach to the beach is controlled by the amount of overlap of the ebb-tidal delta along the downdrift inlet shoreline. The configuration of the ebbtidal delta, in turn, is a function of inlet size and position of the main ebb channel. The swash bar welding process has caused preferential beach nourishment and historical shoreline progradation. Along the East Frisian Islands this process has produced barrier islands with humpbacked, bulbous updrift and bulbous downdrift shapes. The model of barrier island development presented in this paper not only explains well the configuration of the German barriers but also the morphology of barriers along many other mixed energy coasts. 相似文献
Taihu Lake is at the densely populated region of the eastern coast of China. Taihu Basin is one of the most developed regions
of China. The frequency of flood disaster in Taihu Basin has been increasing in the recent years, resulting in more drowned
areas and economic loss. It is shown that flood disaster is the most serious problems in Taihu Lake and Taihu Basin. Mitigation
of flood problems and return to sustainability has now been given high attention and are prioritized in the Chinese national
policies. This paper describes the state of the flood disaster in the Taihu Basin, examines the root causes for flood disaster,
demonstrates by examples how these analyses known as transboundary diagnostic analysis can be used to develop policy options
that can help predict and reduce the flood disaster based on past and current measures and policy. 相似文献
This paper provides a practical method for estimating the drag force on a vegetation field exposed to long-crested (2D) and short-crested (3D) nonlinear random waves. This is achieved by using a simple drag formula together with an empirical drag coefficient given by Mendez et al. (1999), in conjunction with a stochastic approach. Here the waves are assumed to be a stationary narrow-band random process. Effects of nonlinear waves are included by adopting the Forristall (2000) wave crest height distribution representing both 2D and 3D random waves. 相似文献
Historical documentary sources, reflecting different port activities in Stockholm, are utilised to derive a 500-year winter/spring temperature reconstruction for the region. These documentary sources reflect sea ice conditions in the harbour inlet and those series that overlap with the instrumental data correlate well with winter/spring temperatures. By refining dendroclimatological methods, the time-series were composited to a mean series and calibrated (1756–1841; r2?=?66%) against Stockholm January–April temperatures. Strong verification was confirmed (1842–1892; r2?=?60%; RE/CE?=?0.55). By including the instrumental data, the quantified (QUAN) reconstruction indicates that recent two decades have been the warmest period for the last 500 years. Coldest conditions occurred during the 16th/17th and early 19th centuries. An independent qualitative (QUAL) historical index was also derived for the Stockholm region. Comparison between QUAN and QUAL shows good coherence at inter-annual time-scales, but QUAL distinctly appears to lack low frequency information. Comparison is also made to other winter temperature based annually resolved records for the Baltic region. Between proxy coherence is generally good although it decreases going back in time with the 1500–1550 period being the weakest period—possibly reflecting data quality issues in the different reconstructions. 相似文献
Abstract The composition and properties of glacigenic sediments in the southwestern Barents Sea are described based on data from 33 shallow boreholes (< 143 m below seabed) and 11 seabed cores (<4.2m below seabed). The cores are tied into a regional seismostratigraphic framework, illustrating the relationships between different boreholes. A massive, muddy diamicton (silty, sandy clay with scattered gravel) is found in nearly all cores. Average clay content (<2 pm) of this lithology is about 38%, but varies between about 25% and 50%. Short intervals of finely laminated, waterlain sediments or gravelly sand are cored in a few occasions. A high content of sand and gravel in the cores from near the Norwegian coast shows an influence of sediment input from the mainland, while material eroded from sedimentary rocks dominates farther offshore. The data presented on physical properties include undisturbed and remolded undrained shear strength, natural water content, bulk density, compressional sound velocity (P waves), Atterberg consistency limits, effective preconsolidation pressure, and consolidation coefficient. Prediction of overconsolidation from seismic mapping of erosional surfaces is confirmed by the borehole cores. High compaction is found both in Weichselian and older deposits, with a general increase in compaction toward the east as well as toward shallower water. Cores that are “underconsolidated” at their present burial depth are also reported. The average compressional sound velocity is about 1780 m/s for the borehole cores, 1550 m/s for the seabed cores, and increases with increasing shear strength and consolidation. Both horizontal and vertical sound velocities are measured in several cores, and although the data have a considerable scatter, a slightly aniso‐tropic sound velocity is indicated. 相似文献