JONSWAP's parameters: Sorting out the inconsistencies     

A.W. Lewis  R.N. Allos 《Ocean Engineering》1990,17(4)

The original prognostic equations for the JONSWAP-spectrum contained inconsistencies. A subsequent paper (Hasselmann et al., 1976, J. phys. Oceanogr.6, 200–208) attempted to regularise the situation. This paper shows that there were still inconsistencies in the prognostic equations giving overestimations of the first moment of the spectrum and consequently the significant wave height. The prognostic equations are reworked systematically and results presented. It is shown that variable σ_a, σ_b and γ must be used to achieve consistent results  相似文献   

Study of fluoride in polluted and unpolluted estuarine environments     

M. D. Zingde  A. V. Mandalia 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1988,27(6)

Mindhola River estuary, which receives industrial waste containing high concentrations of fluoride, and Purna River estuary, which is free from fluoride contamination, have been investigated. While fluoride behaved conservatively in Purna River estuary, significant deviation from the theoretical dilution line (TDL) in the chlorinity range 0·5–8‰ was observed in Mindhola River estuary due to the externally added fluoride which largely remained in solution. The excess of fluroide over the theoretically calculated value was at a maximum around a chlorinity of 3‰. High natural fluoride content of the river waters resulted in F/Cl ratios exceeding 300 × 10⁻⁵ at low chlorinities. The ratio decreased rapidly with increasing chlorinity and the value near to that of seawater was observed at chlorinities above 14‰.  相似文献   

Nonlinear coupled response of offshore tension leg platforms to regular wave forces   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

A.K. Jain 《Ocean Engineering》1997,24(7):577-592

Among the compliant platforms, the tension leg platform (TLP) is a vertically moored structure with excess buoyancy. The TLP is designed to behave in the same way as any other moored structure in horizontal plane, at the same time inheriting the stiffness of a fixed platform in the vertical plane. Dynamic response analysis of a TLP to deterministic first order wave forces is presented, considering coupling between the degrees-of-freedom surge, sway, heave, roll, pitch and yaw. The analysis considers nonlinearities produced due to changes in cable tension and due to nonlinear hydrodynamic drag forces. The wave forces on the elements of the pontoon structure are calculated using Airy's wave theory and Morison's equation ignoring diffraction effects. The nonlinear equation of motion is solved in the time domain by Newmark's beta integration scheme. The effects of different parameters that influence the response of the TLP are then investigated.  相似文献   

On the monitoring of the thermal state of the upper ocean     

Yu. D. Resnyansky  A. A. Zelen'ko 《Physical Oceanography》1995,6(2):117-124

This paper discusses some problems related to the development of systems of global monitoring of the sea surface temperature (SST). The characteristics of the operational SST data are considered and estimations of their accuracy are given. The applications of varoous models to the computation of SST in relation to the development of an oceanographic data assimilation system are reviewed briefly.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.  相似文献   

Sheet flow and suspension of sand in oscillatory boundary layers   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Jan S. Ribberink  Abdullah A. Al-Salem 《Coastal Engineering》1995,25(3-4)

after revisionTime-dependent measurements of flow velocities and sediment concentrations were conducted in a large oscillating water tunnel. The measurements were aimed at the flow and sediment dynamics in and above an oscillatory boundary layer in plane bed and sheet-flow conditions. Two asymmetric waves and one sinusoidal wave were imposed using quartz sand with D₅₀ = 0.21 mm. A new electro-resistance probe with a large resolving power was developed for the measurement of the large sediment concentrations in the sheet-flow layer. The measurements revealed a three layer transport system consisting of a pick-up/deposition layer, an upper sheet flow layer and a suspension layer.In the asymmetric wave cases the total net transport was directed “onshore” and was mainly concentrated in the thin sheet flow layer (< 0.5 cm) at the bed. A small net sediment flux was directed “offhore” in the upper suspension layer. The measured flow velocities, sediment concentrations and sedimenl fluxes showed a good qualitative agreement with the results of a (numerical) 1DV boundary-layer flow and transport model. Although the model did not describe all the observed processes in the sheet-flow and suspension layer, the computational results showed a reasonable agreement with measured net transport rates in a wide range of asymmetric wave conditions.  相似文献   

A quantitative analysis on the Egyptian Mediterranean waters     

M. A. Sai  F. M. Eid 《海洋学报(英文版)》1994,13(2):203-212

ＡｑｕａｎｔｉｔａｔｉｖｅａｎａｌｙｓｉｓｏｎｔｈｅＥｇｙｐｔｉａｎＭｅｄｉｔｅｒｒａｎｅａｎｗａｔｅｒｓ￥Ｍ．Ａ．ＳａｉｄａｎｄＦ．Ｍ．Ｅｉｄ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＳｅｐｔｅｍｂｅｒ２１，１９９３１ａｃｃｆｅｐｔｅｄＪａｎｕａｒｙ１５，１９９４）Ａｂｓ...  相似文献   

THE CLIMATIC CHANGES AND THE COASTAL ENVIRONMENT     

F. Marabini Qing YunshanA. Veggiani Gang Shuxi 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1992,(1)

Although the Yellow River Delta and Bohai Sea coastal zone are long distance and different environment with Po River Delta and Adriatic Sea coastal zone, the comparison of data of two different areas and the evolution trend of two areas are quite similar. The influence of natural climatic changes on the evolution of the deltas and coastal zones exists both in ancient and modern times. The cold/wet period occurred in 1300—1400A. D. and 1550 —1850 A.D. within this"large scale" climatie cycle, and shorter periods (10— 35 years) of cold rainy weather alternated with warm/dry period are known as "Bruckner cycles" which have influence on the evolution of the deltas and coastal zones.  相似文献   

Interference fringes on GLORIA side-scan sonar images from the Bering Sea and their implications     

Q. J. Huggett  A. K. Cooper  M. L. Somers  A. R. Stubbs 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1992,14(1):47-63

GLORIA side-scan sonographs from the Bering Sea Basin show a complex pattern of interference fringes sub-parallel to the ship's track. Surveys along the same trackline made in 1986 and 1987 show nearly identical patterns. It is concluded from this that the interference patterns are caused by features in the shallow subsurface rather than in the water column. The fringes are interpreted as a thin-layer interference effect that occurs when some of the sound reaching the seafloor passes through it and is reflected off a subsurface layer. The backscattered sound interferes (constructively or desctructively) with the reflected sound. Constructive/destructive interference occurs when the difference in the length of the two soundpaths is a whole/half multiple of GLORIA's 25 cm wavelength. Thus as range from the ship increases, sound moves in and out of phase causing bands of greater and lesser intensity on the GLORIA sonograph. Fluctuations (or wiggles) of the fringes on the GLORIA sonographs relate to changes in layer thickness. In principle, a simple three dimensional image of the subsurface layer may be obtained using GLORIA and bathymetric data from adjacent (parallel) ship's tracks. These patterns have also been identified in images from two other systems; SeaMARC II (12 kHz) long-range sonar, and TOBI (30 kHz) deep-towed sonar. In these, and other cases world-wide, the fringes do not appear with the same persistence as those seen in the Bering Sea.  相似文献   

Radioelement distribution in river,beach, and offshore areas and their significance to Chavara placer deposit,Southern Kerala Coast of India     

T. N. Prakash  G. K. Raju  M. Prithviraj 《Geo-Marine Letters》1991,11(1):32-38

The radioelement and heavy mineral distribution in river, beach and innershelf areas of the southern Kerala coast is related to placer mineral concentration on the beaches at Chavara. Southern Kerala rivers—Neyyar, Karamana and Vamanapuram—transport higher amounts of radioactive elements than the larger Kallada River due to higher radioactive minerals in the hinterland rocks. Coastal configurations and the seasonal longshore current pattern seems to control along-shore distribution of minerals. The proposed model for placer concentration suggests that the energy difference and seasonal current direction along this coast is important.  相似文献   

Imagery of the inhomogeneities of currents on the ocean surface state     

V. A. Dulov  V. N. Kudryavtsev 《Physical Oceanography》1990,1(5):325-336

The influence of inhomogeneities of surface currents on the intensity of breaking wind waves is considered and a model for the relation between whitecap contrasts and the tensor of current gradients is developed. The imagery of typical patterns of ocean currents is discussed. The results of field observations supporting this model are given.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.  相似文献