An experimental investigation of plunging breaker boundary layers in the transformation zone     

M.S. Kirkgz 《Coastal Engineering》1989,13(4)

Experimental investigation is made on the boundary layers of the transformation zone (i.e. the region between the last symmetrical wave profile depth and the breaking point) of plunging breakers propagating on a smooth beach with 1/12 uniform slope. Using a laser anemometer, the particle velocities are measured at four verticals along the transformation zone for three different steepnesses of waves within the plunging breaker range. The boundary layer flow in the transformation zone is found mostly of turbulent character and vertical distribution of particle velocities does not seem to conform to the classical law of the wall distribution given for steady-flow boundary layers. The results show that free-stream particle velocities, in the boundary layer of the breaker under the crest phase, increase considerably as the wave progresses towards the breaking point. The boundary layer thickness, defined as the velocity-affected region, remains constant throughout the transformation zone but it decreases with increasing deep-water wave steepness for the particular beach slope tested.  相似文献   

Design of a caisson plate under wave impact     

M. Salih Kirkgz  Yalin Mengi 《Ocean Engineering》1987,14(4)

From the laboratory experiments and field studies it has been shown that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical wall, impact pressures of high magnitude and short duration, are produced. Despite the recent advances made in collecting data on impact pressure histories and their spatial distributions, analyses on the structural behaviour of the walls loaded by the impact forces do not seem adequate. In the present study the theoretical analysis of the response characteristics of a caisson plate, having different aspect ratios, under the wave impact loading is investigated. Numerical results for the dynamic values of moments and transverse displacements are obtained by the method of finite elements. Some prerequisite experimental data for wave breaking and resulting impact pressures are provided. The static results for moments and deflections are also computed for comparing them with the dynamic values. The dynamic results are found significantly greater than the static values. The ratio between the dynamic and static values is called “Dynamic magnification factor” that varies with plate aspect ratio. Based on this factor a procedure is proposed which may have practical consequences in the design of caisson plates.  相似文献   

The effect of currents on the generation of internal waves by a barotropic tide near an underwater ridge     

E. M. Kolomoitseva  L. V. Cherkesov 《Physical Oceanography》1997,8(3):155-167

In the frame of the linear theory for long waves, the paper studies long waves generated by a barotropic tide running at an arbitrary angle over a bottom ridge. The ocean is assumed to be two-layered. In the area of a ridge with a rectangular cross section, geostrophic flows are considered, coupled with the inclinations of the free surface and interface. Wave amplitudes are shown to depend on the angle of an onrunning tide and this allows us to reach a conclusion about the influence of a geostrophic current on the generation of internal waves. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.  相似文献   

The Amphipod Community as a Bioindicator in Algeciras Bay (Southern Iberian Peninsula) Based on a Spatio-Temporal Distribution   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

M. Conradi    P. J. López-González  C. García-Gómez   《Marine Ecology》1997,18(2):97-111

Abstract. The amphipod population associated with Bugula neritina (L.), a verycommon bryozoan species in Algeciras Bay (Strait of Gibraltar), was studied on a spatio-temporal scale, in order to define its role as a bioindicator. Samples were collected in December, March, June and September along a transect running from the external to the internal sampling stations.
Fifty-three species belonging to 22 families were identified; the most abundant species were Jassa marmorata H olmes , Ischyrocerus inexpectatus (R uffo ) and Phtisica marina S labber .
The spatial evolution of the amphipod community reflected the physico-chemical conditions of Algeciras Bay, yielding a clear gradient from the outer to the inner stations. The stations located at the mouth of the bay, characterised by high hydrodynamism and low sedimentation, had a higher diversity and species richness than the inner stations with low water movement and higher sedimentation. Eight species preferred for the outer stations, while another nine species were typical of the inner harbours.
The most notable aspect of the seasonal evolution was the increased dominance of the tube-builder and deposit-suspension feeder Jassa marmorota .
Structural and ordination analyses corroborate the outer-inner gradient in the bay and illustrate the importance of hydrodynamic forces and sedimentation in the amphipod community.  相似文献   

The distribution of tritium and CFCs in the Weddell Sea during the mid-1980s     

Manfred Mensch  Reinhold Bayer  John L. Bullister  Peter Schlosser  Ray F. Weiss 《Progress in Oceanography》1996,38(4):377-388

Transient tracer data (tritium, CFC11 and CFC12) from the southern, central and northwestern Weddell Sea collected during Polarstern cruises ANT III-3, ANT V-2/3/4 and during Andenes cruise NARE 85 are presented and discussed in the context of hydrographic observations. A kinematic, time-dependent, multi-box model is used to estimate mean residence times and formation rates of several water masses observed in the Weddell Sea.Ice Shelf Water is marked by higher tritium and lower CFC concentrations compared to surface waters. The tracer signature of Ice Shelf Water can only be explained by assuming that its source water mass, Western Shelf Water, has characteristics different from those of surface waters. Using the transient nature of tritium and the CFCs, the mean residence time of Western Shelf Water on the shelf is estimated to be approximately 5 years. Ice Shelf Water is renewed on a time scale of about 14 years from Western Shelf Water by interaction of this water mass with glacial ice underneath the Filchner-Ronne Ice shelf. The Ice Shelf Water signature can be traced across the sill of the Filchner Depression and down the continental slope of the southern Weddell Sea. On the continental slope, new Weddell Sea Bottom Water is formed by entrainment of Weddell Deep Water and Weddell Sea Deep Water into the Ice Shelf Water plume. In the northwestern Weddell Sea, new Weddell Sea Bottom Water is observed in two narrow, deep boundary currents flowing along the base of the continental slope. Classically defined Weddell Sea Bottom Water (θ ≤ −0.7°C) and Weddell Sea Deep Water (−0.7°C ≤ θ ≤ 0°C) are ventilated from the deeper of these boundary currents by lateral spreading and mixing. Model-based estimates yield a total formation rate of 3.5Sv for new Weddell Sea Bottom Water (θ = −1.0°C) and a formation rate of at least 11Sv for Antarctic Bottom Water (θ = −0.5°C).  相似文献   

Effects of spectrum band width on the distribution of wave heights and periods     

M. Aziz Tayfun 《Ocean Engineering》1983,10(2):107-118

The statistical distribution of the crest-to-trough heights of narrowband nonlinear sea waves is derived in a semi-closed form. A quantitative comparison of the resulting density and exceedance probability distributions with those of the linear theory is given. It is shown that the nonlinearity of waves, even with steepnesses typical of extreme sea states, has an insignificant influence on the distribution of crest-to-trough heights.  相似文献   

Sedimentology and morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach, Pendine Sands, SW Wales     

C.F. Jago  J. Hardisty 《Marine Geology》1984,60(1-4):123-154

The foreshore of Pendine Sands forms the seaward part of an extensive, sandy coastal barrier in a shallow Carmarthen Bay, SW Wales. The sedimentological features of the macrotidal foreshore reflect a tide-induced modification of nearshore wave characteristics. As the tide ebbs, the breaker height may decrease, the surf zone widens and becomes increasingly dissipative, and swash/backwash velocities diminish. A concomitant change from plunging to spilling breakers and increasingly symmetrical swash zone flows are associated with a decreasing beach gradient.

A zero net transport model demonstrates that the beach profile is self-stabilising in the short-term, and periodic levelling has shown that the beach is in long-term equilibrium with prevailing conditions, though this does not preclude a significant dynamic response to changing tides and waves.

The flow regimes of wave-generated currents decline as the tide ebbs, and normal beach processes do not usually affect the lower foreshore. Accordingly, there is an overall seaward-fining of the primary framework component of the sands. In more detail, this framework component displays a slight seaward-coarsening across an upper foreshore dominated by high water swash and surf; a rapid seaward-fining across the mid-foreshore in response to the ebb-attenuating swash zone flow velocities; and a slight seaward-fining across the lower foreshore under the action of nearshore shoaling waves. Bedforms vary from a swash/backwash emplaced flat bed across the upper foreshore to the small ripples of nearshore asymmetric oscillatory flows across the lower foreshore.

The surface sediment veneer is not representative of the subsurface sediments which form in response partly to fairweather conditions, partly to storms. The upper foreshore is characterised by swash/backwash emplaced plane bedding in fine sands frequently disrupted by bubble cavities. The mid-foreshore is composed of coarser-grained shelly traction clogs arranged as landward- and seaward-dipping large-scale cross bedding and/or plane bedding; these are probably storm breaker/surf deposits. The lower foreshore, though partially and sometimes totally bioturbated, shows landward-dipping small-scale cross bedding in very fine sands sorted by nearshore shoaling waves.

Tide- and storm-induced modification of the nearshore flow regimes therefore produces a distinctive shore-normal array of sedimentary facies. Each facies is characterised by diagnostic textural and structural signatures. A prograding sequence of such macrotidal deposits would be similar to, but more extensive than, a comparable microtidal sequence.  相似文献   

A fish hepatocyte model for the investigation of the effects of environmental contaminants     

Sandra M. Baksi  John M. Frazier 《Marine environmental research》1988,24(1-4)

An isolated fish hepatocyte culture system was developed as a models ystem to investigate the mechanisms of action of environmental contaminants. Hepatocytes were isolated from striped bass (Morone saxatilis) by an adaptation of the two stage perfusion technique of Seglen.¹ The system was used to evaluate metal binding protein (MBP) induction in response to cadmium, a primary inducer of metallothionein (MT) in rat hepatocytes. Striped bass hepatocytes appeared to be refractory to the induction of MBP by cadmium, since there was no significant increase in the synthesis of MBP for any of the doses at any of the time points investigated. However, when a similar experiment was performed using rat hepatocytes there was induction of MBP that was related to both dose and time. These comparative experiments indicate that although there are similarities between the hepatocytes of the two species in regard to ³⁵S incorporation into low molecular weight metal-binding proteins, there appear to be significant quantitative differences as well in regard to MBP kinetics. This in vitro model system could potentially be utilized to investigate the toxicological properties of other environmental contaminants.  相似文献   

Wave transmission and reflection characteristics of a rigid surface and submerged horizontal plate     

S. Neelamani  M. S. Reddy 《Ocean Engineering》1992,19(4)

The wave transmission and reflection characteristics of a rigidly fixed surface and submerged horizontal plate were investigated experimentally in detail for a wide range of incident wave steepnesses and for different depths of submerge of the plate in deep water conditions in regular water wave fields. The experiments were conducted at the Ocean Engineering Centre, Indian Institute of Technology, Madras, India, in a wave flume 10 m long, 0.3 m wide and in a constant water depth of 0.8 m. The horizontal plate is 0.22 m thick and 1.2 m in length, covering the enrire width of the flume. From the present investigation, it is found that for a rigid surface plate, the coefficient of transmission is a minimum and the coefficient of reflection is a maximum, but the maximum value of the coefficient of energy loss occurs for plates submerged closer to the still-water level (SWL) and not for the surface plate. It is also found that the value of the coefficient of reflection increases with the increase in the value of the Reddy-Neelamani (RN) number, the ratio of horizontal water particle excursion at the bottom of the plate in its absence to the length of the plate. The coefficient of transmission is found to decrease rapidly with increase in the value of RN number up to 0.1. The wave transmission is only 5% for RN from 0.1 to 0.2. It is also found that for RN number greater than 0.04, the minimum energy dissipation is consistently about 60% of the incident wave energy.  相似文献   

Estimates of the characteristics of the horizontal turbulent exchange in the northwestern part of the Pacific Ocean     

M. S. Permyakov  T. I. Tarkhova  A. S. Sergienko 《Oceanology》2007,47(5):647-652

Estimates of the characteristics of the horizontal turbulent exchange (coefficients of horizontal exchange, scales of deviations of the velocity of geostrophic currents from the background flows, and horizontal scales of perturbations) in the upper ocean layer were obtained on the basis of the data of expeditions held in 1978 and 1980 in the northwestern part of the Pacific Ocean. It is shown that the characteristics of the horizontal turbulent exchange strongly depend on the structure of the background flows, and one of the causes of their variability is related to tropical cyclones. A tendency to a decrease (to different degrees) of the turbulent coefficients in the wake of a tropical cyclone is noted.  相似文献