A General Linear Wave Theory for Water Waves Propagating over Uneven Porous Bottoms   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

锁要红  黄虎 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(1):163-171

Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green‘s scond identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations curreutly in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.  相似文献   

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls     

冯卫兵潘丽红  洪广文 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):299-306

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.  相似文献   

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion     

郑桂珍  徐德伦 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(3):357-370

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.  相似文献   

香港附近海区台风波浪的波群统计分析     

黎满球 《热带海洋学报》1994,(4)

根据香港附近海区１９８５，１９８６年两次台风大浪的实测资料，以有效波高为相应水平，对波群作统计分析，得出可供海洋工程参考的波群连长、波群重复长度、波群出现频率以及波群中最大波高与有效波高的关系等。并将统计值与理论值作比较，结果表明：统计值大于“连”的理论值，而与包线理论中采用合田修正公式的汁算值相近。  相似文献   

不规则波折射物理模型试验研究   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

龚崇准  孙大鹏  金巍霞 《海洋工程》1997,(2)

作者曾发表过“不规则波折射的数学模型〔１〕。为了与数学模型的计算结果相互验证，在大连理工大学海岸及近海工程国家重点实验室进行了不规则波折射物理模型试验。试验研究结果表明：提出的“不规则波折射数学模型”对频谱采用等能量分割、对方向分布采用等间隔（Δθ＝ｃｏｓｎｔ）分割的组成波折射线性叠加法是合理的、可行的，可供港口及海岸工程规划、设计应用  相似文献   

先锋孤立子生成的理论平均波阻(Ⅰ).理论     

徐肇廷  楼顺里  徐昱 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1996,(2)

根据作者导得的AfKdV方程，理论上确定了先锋孤立子生成问题的理论平均波阻，能量劈分及能量劈分比。本文的能量劈分是确定先锋孤立子生成参数的理论基础。同时，本理论确定了现有理论中的自由未知参数问题，从而使先锋孤立子生成参数得到理论预报。  相似文献   

不规则波的物理模拟     

高恒庆 《海岸工程》1996,15(3):70-75

介绍了不规则波的生成方法，其中长波、反射及三皮是关键。对波－－充合成做了分析，讨论了水波中的与雷诺数有关的现象的模拟。  相似文献   

狭窄河道的二维潮波模拟   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

杨昭庆  许卫忆 《海洋学报》1989,11(5):650-658

本文用ADE方法对狭窄而弯曲的河道进行了水平二维的潮波模拟,并运用不等距网格处理了区域的大弯曲问题,对于谢才系数在狭窄区域的取值问题进行了探讨,认为在狭窄区域谢才系数还依赖于区域的横向尺度。  相似文献   

精确边界条件导出的最优化五阶斯托克斯波     

付昱华 《海洋通报》1997,16(5):8-14

本文应用变分原理的方法，根据精确的动力自由表面边界条件导出五阶斯托克斯波。所得 边界条件的误差平方和最不意义的最优化解，本文还讨论了确定伯努利方程中的示知函数ｆ（ｔ）的方法。  相似文献   

吸收式造波机和宽式波浪槽     

Salt.  SH 高恒庆 《海岸工程》1996,15(4):67-75

介绍一种宽式波浪槽，槽中设有一组吸收式造波机，它能吸收反射波。  相似文献