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41.
Current, sea level and bed-load transport are investigated in the Lower Piscataqua River section of the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire, USA—a well-mixed and geometrically complex system with low freshwater input, having main channel tidal currents ranging between 0.5 and 2 m s−1. Current and sea level forced by the M2M4M6 tides at the estuarine mouth are simulated by a vertically averaged, non-linear, time-stepping finite element model. The hydrodynamic model uses a fixed boundary computational domain and accounts for flooding–drying of tidal flats by making use of a groundwater component. Inertia terms are neglected in comparison with pressure gradient and bottom friction terms, which is consistent with the observed principal dynamic balance for this section of the system. The accuracy of hydrodynamic predictions in the study area is demonstrated by comparison with four tidal elevation stations and two cross-section averaged current measurements. Simulated current is then used to model bed-load transport in the vicinity of a rapidly growing shoal located in the main channel of the lower system. Consisting of coarse sand and gravel, the shoal must be dredged every five to eight years. Two approaches are taken—an Eulerian parametric method in which nodal bed-load flux vectors are averaged over the tidal cycle and a Lagrangian particle tracking approach in which a finite number of sediment particles are released and tracked. Both methods yield pathways and accumulations in agreement with the observed shoal formation and the long-term rate of sediment accumulation in the shoal area.  相似文献   
42.
The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.  相似文献   
43.
林晓能 《海洋与湖沼》1993,24(3):319-324
根据1972和1974年经过黑潮区的两个台风个例,计算和分析了台风各部位在不同的海气条件下热量输送的垂直分布特点。表明,在台风前部信风带中,热量垂直输送限于700hPa以下,在1000hPa处有约167.47—209.34J/(cm~2·h)的最大值,700hPa以上热量向下输送;在台风中心区,热量输送量最大,在1000hPa处接近420J/(cm~2·h),在850hPa附近可能有热输送量的最大值,其上随高度减小;在台风后部偏南气流中,向上热输送量较小;各层最大值不超过84J/(cm~2·h)。  相似文献   
44.
Instability analysis of three-dimensional ocean shear waves   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Instabilityanalysisofthree-dimensionaloceanshearwaves¥QiaoFangli(ReceivedNovember6,1995,acceptedNovember30.1995)Abstract:Base...  相似文献   
45.
46.
Wave-Current Forces on Slender Circular Cylinders   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
- A series model tests of wave forces by both regular and irregular waves combined with currents on single piles and bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays have been carried out. Based on Morison Equation, linear wave theory and linear wave spectrum theory as well, the characteristics of inline, lift and resultant forces on cylinders have been analyzed respectively. The drag, inertia and lift coefficients CD, CM and CL f皉 single piles related to KC number and the grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays related to KC number are given in this paper.  相似文献   
47.
Multi-directional irregular waves are simulated on the basis of the given directional spectrum using a double summation model, a single direction per frequency model and a single summation model. Their results are compared. It is shown that the single direction per frequency model proposed in this paper can generate a realistic wave field. The effects of the model parameters on the simulated results are also studied in this paper and corresponding suggestions are given.  相似文献   
48.
The results of a laboratory experimental program aimed at better understanding the scour around and burial of heavy cylindrical objects under oscillating flow on a sandy bed are described. This study was motivated by its application to the dynamics of isolated cobbles/mines on a sandy floor under nonlinear progressive waves, such as that occur in shallow coastal waters beyond the wave-breaking region. In the experiments, nonlinear progressive waves were generated in a long wave tank of rectangular cross-section with a bottom slope. Model mines (short cylinders) were placed on the sandy bottom and the temporal evolution of the bed profile and the velocity field in the near field of the object were observed. Experiments were conducted at relatively high Reynolds numbers for a range of flow conditions, which can be characterized by the Keulegan–Carpenter number and Shields parameter. Depending on the values of these parameters, four different scour regimes around the cylinder including periodical burial of cylinder under migrating sand ripples were observed; they were classified as: (i) no scour/burial, (ii) initial scour, (iii) expanded scour, and (iv) periodic burial cases. A scour regime diagram was developed and the demarcation criteria between different regimes were deduced. Semi-empirical formulae that permit estimation of the scour depth with time, the equilibrium maximum scour depth and length, and conditions necessary for the burial of the cylinder as a function of main external parameters are also proposed.  相似文献   
49.
Abstract

Based on hydrological data obtained during the 7th to 9th Chinese National Arctic Research Expeditions in the summers of 2016–2018, the main water structure on the shelf of the northern Bering Sea and the volume and heat fluxes of the Bering Strait throughflow were analyzed. Distinct variability was identified in the three Pacific water masses feeding the strait - Anadyr Water (AW), Bering Shelf Water (BSW) and Alaskan coastal water (ACW). Overall, the temperature and salinity of the entire section increased each year, with 2018 showing significant anomalies, i.e., a temperature anomaly of up to 1?°C and a maximum salinity anomaly of 2. From 2016 to 2018, the extent of the ACW gradually narrowed in the eastern part of this section, while the AW expanded eastward each year. The net volume transport through each of the three sections increased poleward from 1.65?Sv to 2.76?Sv, with the AW increasing from 0?Sv to 1.03?Sv, the BSW varying between 0.52–1.65?Sv, and the ACW gradually decreasing from 1.04?Sv to disappearing completely. The net heat fluxes were also poleward, varying between 25.77 TW and 61.50 TW, and showing a significant increase. Significant variations in magnitude and extent were observed in each water mass of the Bering Strait throughflow, which could produce widespread effects in the Arctic Ocean and the global ocean beyond.  相似文献   
50.
In this study, unlike most previous investigations for wave-induced soil response, a simple semi-analytical model for the random wave-induced soil response is established for an unsaturated seabed of finite thickness. Two different wave spectra, the B-M and JONSWAP spectra, are considered in the new model. The influence of random wave loading on the soil response is investigated by comparing with the corresponding representative regular wave results through a parametric study, which includes the effect of the degree of saturation, soil permeability, wave height, wave period and seabed thickness. The maximum liquefaction depth under the random waves is also examined. The difference on the soil response under the two random wave types, B-M and JONSWAP frequency spectra, is also discussed in the present work.  相似文献   
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