A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater     

Hong Sik Lee  Sung Duk Kim 《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(14-15):1954-1971

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.  相似文献   

Depth- and current-induced effects on wave propagation into the Altamaha River Estuary, Georgia     

KiRyong Kang  Daniela Di Iorio   《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,66(3-4):395-408

A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient.  相似文献   

A General Linear Wave Theory for Water Waves Propagating over Uneven Porous Bottoms   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

锁要红  黄虎 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(1):163-171

Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green‘s scond identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations curreutly in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.  相似文献   

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls     

冯卫兵潘丽红  洪广文 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):299-306

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.  相似文献   

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion     

郑桂珍  徐德伦 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(3):357-370

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.  相似文献   

Discussion: A review on the behaviour of helical piles as a potential offshore foundation system     

Shah Neyamat Ullah  Yuxia Hu 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2020,38(9):1121-1127

Abstract

Helical piles have emerged as an attractive foundation system for offshore applications with renewed interest from the offshore community. Significant research gap currently exists in transferring this technology offshore and this paper discusses how existing and emerging knowledge can be successfully used to bridge some of the gaps. We focus on the Coupled Eulerian Lagrangian (CEL) large deformation finite element (LDFE) modelling technique that is commercially available and can be used to model the three-dimensional installation process with consideration of strain rate and softening effects in soft offshore clays. A helical pile of L?=?7.5?m long is modelled with one or two large-diameter helices (D?=?2?m) attached to a central shaft of d?=?0.5?m in diameter.The net effect of strain rate and softening is to increase the installation torque. The measured torque is within the range of 200–400?kN.m for the offshore clay and the pile geometry studied. Additional helices increase the uplift force but to a lesser degree than that of the measured torque. Remoulding induced strength reduction is found to be within the range of 25–33% of the intact clay strength. Issues of extracting and reusing offshore helical pile foundations are discussed.  相似文献   

蒸发波导环境下风浪对电磁波传播影响的数值模拟研究     

闫西荡  杨坤德 《海洋与湖沼》2020,51(1):13-19

蒸发波导是一种特殊的大气波导,在其中传播的电磁波信号会被陷获在近海大气层中,实现超视距传播。受海表面温度、湿度、风速、微波频率等因素的影响,海洋蒸发波导环境中的微波传播特性起伏变化很大,规律十分复杂。以往的工作主要通过计算这些气象因素对蒸发波导条件下大气折射率剖面的影响来分析它们对路径损失的作用,其结果与实验数据仍有较大差异。本文在一定的蒸发波导条件下,利用一维分形海面模型产生海面“地形”,将其作为抛物方程电磁波传播模型的边界条件进行计算,得到相应的路径损失,并与传统计算方法进行对比,分析了不同蒸发波导高度、不同频率及不同接收天线高度时的数值模拟情况,可为舰艇通信系统或者雷达系统的设计提供相应的依据。  相似文献   

Nutrient Limitation in Macroalgae (Ulva and Enteromorpha) from the Rías Baixas (NW Spain)     

Ruben Villares  & Alejo Carballeira 《Marine Ecology》2004,25(3):225-243

Abstract.  Photosynthesis and growth rates in samples of two green seaweeds ( Ulva and Enteromorpha ) were monitored in the laboratory. The macroalgae were collected every 15 days from four coastal embayments in Galicia (NW Spain). Ulva samples were found to be nutritionally limited, particularly in summer. The physiological activity of Enteromorpha did not appear to be as affected by nutrient scarcity, although it may have suffered from phosphorus limitation. The subsistence quotas, critical concentrations and storage capacity for N and P in Ulva were comparable to those obtained by other investigators in similar studies. The trace metals analysed apparently did not negatively affect the macroalgae at the measured concentrations; one explanation is that many of these metals function as essential micronutrients. The complex physiological interactions between metals and nutrients, however, may complicate interpretation of the results.  相似文献   

汕头近岸区的台风波浪 (二)后报台风波浪及其基本特征     

张经汉  李少英  王盛安  沈建平 《海洋工程》1997,(4)

本文采用《受陆岸影响浅水区台风风浪的推算方案》后报影响汕头近岸区的台风风浪，并以此与Ｔｈｏｍｐｓｏｎ关于波型的判据和合田良实的不同波型能量集中度的规定相结合，计算台风混合浪，经与现场实测资料相比较，效果良好；依４４年台风浪的后报结果，可以得到各场台风过程的波高，波能和主波向的变化以及后报台风较大浪时能随方向的分布  相似文献   

A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term Wave Series     

Zhang Changkuan  Wang Zhen  Zhang Dongsheng Associate Professor  Dept. of Navigation  Ocean Engineering  Hohai University  Nanjing Lecturer  Dept. of Navigation  Ocean Engineering  Hohai University  Nanjing Professor  Dept. of Navigation  Ocean Engineering  Hohai University  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1995,(2)

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.  相似文献