Distribution of nonlinear wave crests     

J. Al-Humoud  M. A. Tayfun  H. Askar 《Ocean Engineering》2002,29(15):1929-1943

The distribution of nonlinear wave crests is examined on the basis of a theoretical probability density previously given elsewhere (J. Eng. Mech. 120 (1994) 1009). Certain errors contained in the original theoretical density are corrected, and the corresponding exceedance distribution is derived. The resulting theoretical forms of the probability density and exceedance distribution are then slightly simplified and compared with nonlinear wave data gathered under hurricane conditions. The results indicate that the proposed theoretical forms describe the observed distributions of large wave crests better than the Rayleigh law. However, the quantitative accuracy of the predictions is somewhat poor, as is typical of approximate theories based on Gram–Charlier-type expansions.  相似文献   

一种推广的缓坡方程   总被引：4，自引：3，他引：4  

潘军宁  洪广文等 《海洋工程》2001,19(1):24-31

从流体力学基本方程出发，假定水流的涡量和垂向流速分量小量，推导出考虑非均匀水流的推广的缓坡方程，该方程中包含了△h^2h项和（△hh)^2项。在方程中引入底摩擦项、风能输入项和非线性项，其中风能输入项的推导考虑了风浪与涌浪的区别，风流情况依据青岛海洋大学的风浪成长经验关系，涌浪情况依据Snyder等人的观测结果。经过上述推广后，得到综合考虑折射、绕射、反射、非均匀水流、底摩擦损耗、风能输入及波浪非线性的推广的缓坡方程。  相似文献   

水动力作用下管道稳定性的试验研究   总被引：2，自引：2，他引：2  

高福平  顾小芸等 《海洋工程》2001,19(2):56-60

利用振荡流水槽在以下两种约束条件下，研究波浪作用下直接铺设于砂质海底的管道失稳临界条件：1）管道两端自由；2）管道可水平、垂直自由运动，但流动受到限制。试验结果表明，管重无量纳数G与管道失稳的临界Fr数之间大致呈线性关系，而当G超过一定数值时，管道是侧向稳定的。管道的约束条件、砂床特性和加载速度对管道稳定性均有影响。  相似文献   

先锋孤立子生成的理论平均波阻(Ⅰ).理论     

徐肇廷  楼顺里  徐昱 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1996,(2)

根据作者导得的AfKdV方程，理论上确定了先锋孤立子生成问题的理论平均波阻，能量劈分及能量劈分比。本文的能量劈分是确定先锋孤立子生成参数的理论基础。同时，本理论确定了现有理论中的自由未知参数问题，从而使先锋孤立子生成参数得到理论预报。  相似文献   

砂质海岸岸滩侵蚀演变模式探讨——以山东南部海岸侵蚀岸段的岸滩演变为例   总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5  

包四林虞志英  刘苍字张国安 《海洋工程》2003,21(3):94-99

在分析山东南部海岸几十年来的地形观测资料的基础上，运用砂质海岸等深线变化预测理论，建立该区的岸滩侵蚀演变预测模型，研究了该区域岸滩演变规律。实测资料验证表明：预测结果合理，基本反映了本区岸滩演变的特征。  相似文献   

海岸工程中海浪数值模拟和环境参数选取的进展     

黄培基 《海岸工程》1995,14(4):1-4

主要介绍了我国近的来在海岸工程设计，建设中有关海浪数值模拟及环境参数选取方面的研究进展。  相似文献   

Second order wave diffraction forces and runup by finite—infinite element method     

B.Y. Li  S.L. Lau  C.O. Ng 《Applied Ocean Research》1991,13(6):270-286

  相似文献   

波浪作用下海床的有效应力分析   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

吴梦喜  楼志刚 《海洋工程》2002,20(1):64-68

波浪作用下海床的稳定性分析是海洋工程地质评价的重要内容。海床的稳定性可通过计算分析其随时间变化的有效应力场来评估。本文建议了一个周期荷载作用下土体的本构模型 ,并用于计算波浪作用下海床的应力与变形。采用Biot固结理论和有限单元法 ,分析了海床的动态应力场与孔隙水压力场。波浪作用下两种渗透系数时有效应力的动态变化过程结果对比 ,反映了渗透消散作用对海床有效应力变化的影响  相似文献   

Numerical modelling of deformation of multi-directional random waves over a varying topography     

Filipa Simes Brito Ferreira Oliveira 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(2):337-342

Two numerical formulations of the breaking phenomenon were implemented in a numerical model for random wave propagation based on the elliptic formulation of the mild-slope equation. The randomness of the wave field was simulated based on a spectral component method, in which the 3-D spectrum is discretised in components of equal energy. One of the breaking process formulations is based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component. The other is based on the distribution of the local amount of energy dissipated through the independent spectral components. The model based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component produces the best estimates of the wave field, when the numerical results are compared with laboratory data.  相似文献   

Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

M. Aziz Tayfun   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(11-12):1589-1622

Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly.  相似文献