互花米草及其对海岸的防护作用   总被引：28，自引：0，他引：28  

宋连清 《海洋学研究》1997,15(1):11-19

本文论述了互花米草在滩涂中种植的时间、种植的方法及其生长的适应性。文中着重讨论互花米草在海岸工程中防浪和消浪能力。与工程护岸比较，互花米草护岸是最经济、合理和有效的。通过本文的讨论为今后利用互花米草进行海岸防护提供依据  相似文献   

Gravity torques for surface waves     

Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1997,53(1):89-92

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.  相似文献   

The Mathematical and Parameterized Expressions for Wave Induced Excess Flow of Momentum     

朱首贤丁平兴  张文静 《中国海洋工程》2007,21(1):137-146

Wave induced excess flow of momentum(WIEFM)is the averaged flow of momentum over a wave period due to wave presence,which may also be called 3-D radiation stress.In this paper,the 3-D current equations with WIEFM are derived from the averaged Navier-Stokes equations over a wave period,in which the velocity is separated into the large-scale background velocity,the wave particle velocity and the turbulent fluctuation velocity.A concept of wave fluctuating layer(WFL)is put forward,which is the vertical column from the wave trough to wave ridge.The mathematical expressions of WIEFM in WFL and below WFL are given separately.The parameterized expressions of WIEFM are set up according to the linear wave theory.The integration of WIEFM in the vertical direction equals the traditional radiation stress(namely 2-D radiation stress)given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.  相似文献   

STWAVE模型在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中的应用     

黄君宝  吴辉  赵鑫 《海洋技术学报》2007,26(3):52-54

我国常用的风推浪计算方法在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中具有一定局限性。论文通过不同方法计算的波浪要素计算结果的比较,认为STWAVE模型在满足计算精度的前提下,操作简单,方法简便,在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中具有较大的应用、推广价值。  相似文献   

Numerical and simplified methods for the calculation of the total horizontal wave force on a perforated caisson with a top cover     

Xuefeng Chen  Yucheng Li  Bin Teng 《Coastal Engineering》2007

The VOF method and the k–ε model, combined with the equation of state of air at constant temperature, have been used to calculate the total horizontal wave force caused by monochromatic waves acting on a perforated caisson with a top cover. From comparison of various parameters, such as the total horizontal force, the pressure difference on the front wall, the pressure on the back wall and the pressure on the top cover, between the numerical results and test data, it can be seen that the numerical results agree well with the test data. It is concluded that the method described in this paper can be utilized to calculate wave forces acting on perforated caissons with a top cover in the case of nonovertopping, nonbreaking waves. A simplified method to calculate the total horizontal force has been developed, based on test data, using a least-squares method. A comparison between the numerical results and the values calculated from the simplified equations shows good agreement. Therefore the simplified equations can be used in engineering applications to evaluate the total horizontal force on a perforated caisson with a top cover.  相似文献   

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究     

孙孚  张书文 《海洋与湖沼》2001,32(5):547-550

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。  相似文献   

Wave-Current Forces on Small Square Cylinders (Part I)     

Li Yucheng  He Ming Professor  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Former master student  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1994,(3)

-Based on the extended Morison Equation and model tests, the in-line forces on small square cylinders caused by waves (regular and irregular) and currents are analyzed in detail in this paper. The hydrodynamic coefficient CD and Cu related to KC number and the effect of direction of wave incidence are also given, which can be used in engineering practice.  相似文献   

A model of the formation and development of ocean shear wave     

Qiao Fangli  Zhang Qinghua 《海洋学报(英文版)》1994,13(3):345-359

Ａｍｏｄｅｌｏｆｔｈｅｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｄｅｖｅｌｏｐｍｅｎｔｏｆｏｃｅａｎｓｈｅａｒｗａｖｅ￥ＱｉａｏＦａｎｇｌｉａｎｄＺｈａｎｇＱｉｎｇｈｕａ（ＦｉｒｓｔＩｎｓｔｉｔｕｔｅｏｆＯｃｅａｎｏｇｒａｐｈｙ，ｓｔａｔｅｏｃｅａｎｉｃＡｄｍｉｎｉｓ...  相似文献   

波浪作用下岸坡和海底平衡条件的研究     

沈剑平  范德江 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1993,(4)

提出波浪作用下岸坡和海底动态和静态平衡条件的数学模型。在已建立的推移质泥沙体积输沙率基本关系式的基础上,根据连续方程,计算出底坡、泥沙、波浪三要素在动态和静态平衡情况下的关系式,得出反映这种关系的底坡平衡函数曲线图。用实际资料对这一函数曲线进行了验证,并对实际资料相对模型的某些差异作出解释。  相似文献   

Research on Characteristics of Density Current Under the Action of Waves     

Li Dashan  Shen Ying  Ren Rushu Chen Yao Senior Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing Associate Professor  Hohai University  Nanjing Master  Hohai University  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1997,(1)

In this paper,the characteristics of density current under the action of waves are describedwith the help of flume experiment and theoretical analysis.The study shows that turbid water under the ac-tion of the waves can present three types of motion,i.e.significant stratification,fragile stratification andstrong mixing.The motion of turbid water presents significant stratification when(H/D)/△ρ/ρ~(1/2)≤4.5,generally this state is known as density current.The formulas of motionvelocity,thickness,and discharge of density current moving on horizontal bottom are derived by use of ba-sic equations such as momemtum equation,equation of energy conservation and continuity equation offluid.The time-average velocity and the thickness of density current under the action of waves have a rela-tionship with such parameters as relative density(△ρ/ρ),wave height(H),and water depth(D).Whenthese parameters are determined,the time-average thickness and motion velocity of density current are al-so determined.The relat  相似文献