A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term Wave Series     

Zhang Changkuan  Wang Zhen  Zhang Dongsheng Associate Professor  Dept. of Navigation  Ocean Engineering  Hohai University  Nanjing Lecturer  Dept. of Navigation  Ocean Engineering  Hohai University  Nanjing Professor  Dept. of Navigation  Ocean Engineering  Hohai University  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1995,(2)

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.  相似文献   

香港附近海区台风波浪的波群统计分析     

黎满球 《热带海洋学报》1994,(4)

根据香港附近海区１９８５，１９８６年两次台风大浪的实测资料，以有效波高为相应水平，对波群作统计分析，得出可供海洋工程参考的波群连长、波群重复长度、波群出现频率以及波群中最大波高与有效波高的关系等。并将统计值与理论值作比较，结果表明：统计值大于“连”的理论值，而与包线理论中采用合田修正公式的汁算值相近。  相似文献   

Sediment-starved sand ridges on a mixed carbonate/siliciclastic inner shelf off west-central Florida     

S. E. Harrison  S. D. Locker  A. C. Hine  J. H. Edwards  D. F. Naar  D. C. Twichell  D. J. Mallinson 《Marine Geology》2003,200(1-4):171-194

High-resolution side-scan mosaics, sediment analyses, and physical process data have revealed that the mixed carbonate/siliciclastic, inner shelf of west-central Florida supports a highly complex field of active sand ridges mantled by a hierarchy of bedforms. The sand ridges, mostly oriented obliquely to the shoreline trend, extend from 2 km to over 25 km offshore. They show many similarities to their well-known counterparts situated along the US Atlantic margin in that both increase in relief with increasing water depth, both are oriented obliquely to the coast, and both respond to modern shelf dynamics. There are significant differences in that the sand ridges on the west-central Florida shelf are smaller in all dimensions, have a relatively high carbonate content, and are separated by exposed rock surfaces. They are also shoreface-detached and are sediment-starved, thus stunting their development. Morphological details are highly distinctive and apparent in side-scan imagery due to the high acoustic contrast. The seafloor is active and not a relict system as indicated by: (1) relatively young AMS ¹⁴C dates (<1600 yr BP) from forams in the shallow subsurface (1.6 meters below seafloor), (2) apparent shifts in sharply distinctive grayscale boundaries seen in time-series side-scan mosaics, (3) maintenance of these sharp acoustic boundaries and development of small bedforms in an area of constant and extensive bioturbation, (4) sediment textural asymmetry indicative of selective transport across bedform topography, (5) morphological asymmetry of sand ridges and 2D dunes, and (6) current-meter data indicating that the critical threshold velocity for sediment transport is frequently exceeded. Although larger sand ridges are found along other portions of the west-central Florida inner shelf, these smaller sand ridges are best developed seaward of a major coastal headland, suggesting some genetic relationship. The headland may focus and accelerate the N–S reversing currents. An elevated rock terrace extending from the headland supports these ridges in a shallower water environment than the surrounding shelf, allowing them to be more easily influenced by currents and surface gravity waves. Tidal currents, storm-generated flows, and seasonally developed flows are shore-parallel and oriented obliquely to the NW–SE trending ridges, indicating that they have developed as described by the Huthnance model. Although inner shelf sand ridges have been extensively examined elsewhere, this study is the first to describe them in a low-energy, sediment-starved, dominantly mixed siliciclastic/carbonate sedimentary environment situated on a former limestone platform.  相似文献   

基于规则波波形的超声波非接触测量有关问题探讨     

叶家玮  孙晓梅 《海洋工程》1996,(3)

波浪波形的非接触测量近年来获得广泛的应用。本文以规则波为讨论对象，针对介质为空气的超声波测量方式进行波形测量误差分析，并结合实验室和实船试验进行对比分析。理论分析表明：在规则波取为坦谷波和ＳＴＯＫＥＳ波的前提下，超声波技术几乎产生相同的最大误差。定量分析表明，在对测量精度限制的条件下，对文中提及的各项参数应作有效的控制  相似文献   

Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1  

Liu Shuxue Yu Yuxiu Assistant Researcher  State Key Laboratory of Coastal  Offshore Engineering  Dalian University of Technology 《中国海洋工程》1995,(1)

The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.  相似文献   

不规则波折射物理模型试验研究   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

龚崇准  孙大鹏  金巍霞 《海洋工程》1997,(2)

作者曾发表过“不规则波折射的数学模型〔１〕。为了与数学模型的计算结果相互验证，在大连理工大学海岸及近海工程国家重点实验室进行了不规则波折射物理模型试验。试验研究结果表明：提出的“不规则波折射数学模型”对频谱采用等能量分割、对方向分布采用等间隔（Δθ＝ｃｏｓｎｔ）分割的组成波折射线性叠加法是合理的、可行的，可供港口及海岸工程规划、设计应用  相似文献   

受陆岸影响浅水区台风风浪的计算方案     

《热带海洋学报》1994,(1)

在我国港口工程技术规范的波浪成长理论基础上，考虑到台风波浪的基本特点、等效水深的概念、浅水区波浪的折射、不规则波的能量分布特性、受陆岸和岛屿影响角度范围内的有效能量风区长度等因素，提出了受陆岸、岛屿影响浅水区（包括海湾区）台风风浪的计算方案。本方案只需台风中心位置、中心气压和计算点于各方位的风区长度（受陆岸影响部分）等资料，便可快速地得到计算点的波浪要素。经实测资料验证，效果良好。  相似文献   

Influence of Approach Channel on Wave Propagation with Varying Incident Angles     

Zuo Qihua  Yang Zhengji . Senior Engieer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1996,(3)

- The variation of the amplitude of waves with varying incident angles when waves propagate through a typical approach channel is discussed by a numerical calculation method, the result of which shows that the influence of the channel on wave propagation is obvious. When the wave propagation direction is in coincidence with the channel axis, the wave amplitude ratio will decrease with the increase of propagation distance. When the incident angle is 15 - 30 , there appears an area of larger wave amplitude ratio on the side slope facing the waves, but at the another side, the wave amplitude ratio is generally small, indicating that the channel has a shielding effect. When waves propagate across the channel perpendicularly, the wave amplitude ratio can be calculated with the shallow water coefficient.  相似文献   

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification     

Xu Shikai  Wang Hongchuan Hong Guangwen Engineer  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing  . Professor  Research Institute of Coastal  Ocean Engineering  Hohai University  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1996,(4)

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.  相似文献   

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Wu Guiqiu Li Wei Professor  First Institute of Oceanography  State Oceanic Administration  Qingdao Associate Researcher 《中国海洋工程》1994,(2)

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.  相似文献