A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state     

Fernando J. Mndez  Sonia Castanedo 《Coastal Engineering》2007,54(12):878-882

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.  相似文献   

Hilbert变换在海浪波高与周期联合分布函数中的应用     

李响  李海  张蕴斐  徐德伦  吴辉碇 《海洋预报》2006,23(3):1-13

Longuet-Higgins(1983)[1]导出了波高与周期的联合分布函数,此分布函数虽然与实际数据符合良好,但存在很大的缺陷,如:由此分布函数得出的波高分布为形式较为复杂的非Rayleigh分布,很难应用于工程计算中。孙孚(1988a)[2]应用射线理论导出了一种波高与周期联合分布,虽然弥补了Longuet-Higgins的一些缺陷,但推导过程过于复杂。本文在窄谱假定下通过应用Hilbert变换方法得出新的分布函数并与前两者比较,表明Hilbert变换的方法不但简便,而且完全克服Longuet-Higgins的不足,可以方便的应用于工程计算中。本文也为Hilbert变换的方法在工程中的应用提供了理论依据。  相似文献   

Depth- and current-induced effects on wave propagation into the Altamaha River Estuary, Georgia     

KiRyong Kang  Daniela Di Iorio   《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,66(3-4):395-408

A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient.  相似文献   

Wind-driven interannual variability over the northeast Pacific Ocean     

Patrick F. Cummins  Gary S.E. Lagerloef 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2004,51(12):365

Interannual variability of the sea surface height (SSH) over the northeast Pacific Ocean is hindcast with a reduced-gravity, quasi-geostrophic model that includes linear damping. The model is forced with monthly Ekman pumping fields derived from the NCEP reanalysis wind stresses. The numerical solution is compared with SSH observations derived from satellite altimeter data and gridded at a lateral resolution of 1 degree. Provided that the reduced gravity parameter is chosen appropriately, the results demonstrate that the model has significant hindcast skill over interior regions of the basin, away from continental boundaries. A damping time scale of 2 to 3 years is close to optimal, although the hindcast skill is not strongly dependent on this parameter.A simplification of the quasi-geostrophic model is considered in which Rossby waves are eliminated, yielding a Markov model driven by local Ekman pumping. The results approximately reproduce the hindcast skill of the more complete quasi-geostrophic model and indicate that the interannual SSH variability is dominated by the local response to wind forcing. There is a close correspondence the two leading empirical orthogonal modes of the local model and those of the observed SSH anomalies. The latter account for over half of the variance of the interannual signal over the region.  相似文献   

Behaviour of uranium during mixing in the delaware and chesapeake estuaries     

M.M. Sarin  Thomas M. Church 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1994,39(6)

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Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification     

Xu Shikai  Wang Hongchuan Hong Guangwen Engineer  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing  . Professor  Research Institute of Coastal  Ocean Engineering  Hohai University  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1996,(4)

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.  相似文献   

A Numerical Study on the Structure and Dynamics of Turbulence in Oscillatory Bottom Layer Flow over A Flat or Rippled Bed     

白玉川  吴朝安黄涛 《中国海洋工程》2006,20(1):45-60

1 .IntroductionUnder the influence of surface waves ,sandripples often appear on beaches . Whenthe amplitudeof water oscillationis sufficientlylarge ,vortices are formed onthe lee of every sand ripple crest . A-mongthese vortices ,the most important are t…  相似文献   

Numerical study of enhanced energy dissipation near a seamount     

Nobuyuki Iwamae  Toshiyuki Hibiya  Yoshihiro Niwa 《Journal of Oceanography》2006,62(6):851-858

Using a two-dimensional primitive equation model, we examine nonlinear responses of a semidiurnal tidal flow impinging on a seamount with a background Garrett-Munk-like (GM-like) internal wavefield. It is found that horizontally elongated pancake-like structures of high vertical wavenumber near-inertial current shear are created both in the near-field (the region over the slope of the seamount) and far-field (the region over the flat bottom of the ocean). An important distinction is that the high vertical wavenumber near-inertial current shear is amplified only at mid-latitudes in the far-field (owing to a parametric subharmonic instability (PSI)), whereas it is amplified both at mid-and high-latitudes (above the latitude where PSI can occur) in the near-field. In order to clarify the generating mechanism for the strong shear in the near-field, additional numerical experiments are carried out with the GM-like background internal waves removed. The experiments show that the strong shear is also created, indicating that it is not caused by the interaction between the background GM-like internal waves and the semidiurnal internal tides. One possible explanation is proposed for the amplification of high vertical wavenumber near-inertial current shear in the near-field where tide residual flow resulting from tide-topography interaction plays an important role in transferring energy from high-mode internal tides to near-inertial internal waves.  相似文献   

A simple model to calculate the residual flows in a Spanish ria. Hydrographic consequences in the ria of Vigo     

Ricardo Prego  Fernando Fraga 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1992,34(6)

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Sugar and Lipid Components in Sea Foam near Kelp Beds     

Branko  Velimirov 《Marine Ecology》1982,3(2):97-107

Abstract. A component analysis of the sugar and lipid fraction in foam layers around kelp beds on the South African west coast showed the following trends: In the residue of foam drainage of both 12 h and 120 h old foam the sugar fraction is represented by mannose (33–41 %), galactose (4–30%), fucose (3–29%) and glucose (19–26%). With the exception of fucose, the same components could be found in foam filtration. In the lipid fraction the main fatty acids are palmitic (23.3–27.3%), oleic (14.0–5.5%) and timnodonic acid (11.2–9.1%). Selacholeinic acid was only found in 12 h old foam while lignoceric acid could not be located in foam filtration. Against expectation mannitol was not identified in quantifiable amounts in foam samples although it is the dominant component of kelp mucilage, whose presence is of major importance for foam formation. Hypotheses explaining the lack of mannitol are forwarded. Component sugar and lipid content for 11 of foam was calculated and estimation of sugar and lipid content in an average foam patch (volume of 30001) is given. The importance of foam formation as a mechanism for binding and transfer of energy in the marine environment is emphasized.  相似文献