Internal generation of waves: Delta source function method and source term addition method     

Gunwoo Kim  Changhoon Lee  Kyung-Duck Suh   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(17-18):2251-2264

In this study, we investigate two internal wave generation methods in numerical modeling of time-dependent equations for water wave propagation, i.e., delta source function method and source term addition method, the latter of which has been called the line source method in literatures. We derive delta source functions for the Boussinesq-type equations and extended mild-slope equations. By applying the fractional step splitting method, we show that the delta source function method is equivalent to the source term addition method employing the energy velocity. This suggests that the energy velocity should be used rather than the phase velocity for the transport of incident wave energy in the source term addition method. Finally, the performance of the delta source function method is verified by accurately generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases.  相似文献   

Field observations of waves generated by passing ships: A note     

A.F. Velegrakis  M.I. VousdoukasA.M. Vagenas  Th. KarambasK. Dimou  Th. Zarkadas 《Coastal Engineering》2007

This short contribution reports the results of a field study on the nearshore characteristics of waves generated by both conventional and high speed passenger ferries. The field observations took place in the late summer of 2005, at a beach close to the port of Mytilene (Island of Lesbos, Greece), and involved the visual observation of ship waves, using digital video recordings and image processing techniques. The results showed that passage of the fast ferry was associated with a longer, more complex and energetic nearshore event; this event not only did include higher nearshore waves (up to 0.74 m) and was organised in different wave packets, but it was also an order of magnitude longer (∼ 680 s) than the conventional ferry event. Regarding the effects on beach sediment dynamics, the fast ferry waves were estimated to be very efficient in mobilising the nearshore sediments in contrast to those of the conventional ferry. The fast ferry service appears to generate daily prolonged nearshore events, which contain waves with higher energy than those expected from the normal summer wind wave regime of the area; these events also include some high and very steep waves, which can be particularly erosive. Therefore, fast ferry wakes may have considerable impacts on the seasonal beach sediment dynamics/morphodynamics and the nearshore benthic ecology, as well as they may pose significant risks to bathers, affecting the recreational use of the beaches exposed to fast ferry traffic. Finally, the study has shown that satisfactory field observations of the nearshore characteristics of ship-generated (and wind) waves can be obtained using inshore deployments of calibrated poles, digital video cameras and appropriate image processing algorithms.  相似文献   

Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method     

Gunwoo Kim  Changhoon Lee  Kyung-Duck Suh   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(14-15):2047-2066

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.  相似文献   

A method to estimate the forces exerted by internal solitons on cylindrical piles   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Shuqun Cai  Xiaomin Long  Zijun Gan 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(5):673-689

Internal soliton is the large amplitude wave existing in the pycnocline, induced by internal tide in the condition of special bottom topography. During its propagation process, the induced disturbance can bring about strong convergence of sea water and sudden strong current (wave-induced-current), which can cause severe threat to the ocean engineering structures, such as oil drilling platform and pipeline. In this paper, Morison’s empirical method, modal separation and regression analyses are introduced to estimate the forces and torques exerted by internal soliton on cylindrical piles. As an example, a limited set of observational data recording a passage of the internal soliton near Dongsha Islands is used to estimate the horizontal velocity and its acceleration in a vertical section for computing the force and torque on a supposed pile, and the estimation results are reasonable. It is shown that, the higher number of the modes retained in the calculation, the better the estimation of velocity profile fits the observational one. A better overall approximation to the real solution can be reached if there are more observational current data acquired in a whole vertical profile.  相似文献   

Dynamic properties of green water event in the overtopping of extreme waves on a fixed dock     

Nobuhito Mori  Daniel T. Cox 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(16):2021-2052

A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values.  相似文献   

均匀水底上二维随机波面的二阶谱   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1       下载免费PDF全文

孙孚  丁平兴  余宙文 《海洋与湖沼》1993,24(1):1-6

本文用摄动方法导出了均匀水底上精确至二阶的二维随机波动解。依据此解并将二阶谱定义为三阶矩函数的Fourier变换,首次给出了精确至二阶的二维随机波面二阶谱的理论表达式并简略地考虑了它的各个组成部分的物理意义。  相似文献   

Prediction of impact pressure induced by breaking waves on vertical cylinders in random seas     

Michel K. Ochi  Chen-Han Tsai 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(3):157-165

This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic.  相似文献   

Modeling bed-load transport of coarse sediments in the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

A. Bilgili  M. R. Swift  D. R. Lynch  J. T. C. Ip 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,58(4):937-950

Current, sea level and bed-load transport are investigated in the Lower Piscataqua River section of the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire, USA—a well-mixed and geometrically complex system with low freshwater input, having main channel tidal currents ranging between 0.5 and 2 m s⁻¹. Current and sea level forced by the M₂M₄M₆ tides at the estuarine mouth are simulated by a vertically averaged, non-linear, time-stepping finite element model. The hydrodynamic model uses a fixed boundary computational domain and accounts for flooding–drying of tidal flats by making use of a groundwater component. Inertia terms are neglected in comparison with pressure gradient and bottom friction terms, which is consistent with the observed principal dynamic balance for this section of the system. The accuracy of hydrodynamic predictions in the study area is demonstrated by comparison with four tidal elevation stations and two cross-section averaged current measurements. Simulated current is then used to model bed-load transport in the vicinity of a rapidly growing shoal located in the main channel of the lower system. Consisting of coarse sand and gravel, the shoal must be dredged every five to eight years. Two approaches are taken—an Eulerian parametric method in which nodal bed-load flux vectors are averaged over the tidal cycle and a Lagrangian particle tracking approach in which a finite number of sediment particles are released and tracked. Both methods yield pathways and accumulations in agreement with the observed shoal formation and the long-term rate of sediment accumulation in the shoal area.  相似文献   

Gravity torques for surface waves     

Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1997,53(1):89-92

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.  相似文献   

热带太平洋-印度洋上层热含量年际变化的主模态   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

武术  刘秦玉  胡瑞金 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2007,37(3):365-371

利用多种海洋资料,采用经验正交函数分解(EOF)与合成分析等方法研究了热带太平洋-印度洋热含量年际变化的主要模态及其对应的转换过程。结果表明其第一模态对应El Nino事件成熟位相时的空间分布,即热带西太平洋和东印度洋为一冷中心,西南印度洋和赤道东太平洋为暖中心;第二模态对应着El Nino事件过渡期的空间分布,太平洋10°N附近以及赤道带为变化中心,而印度洋的变化中心主要在苏门答腊岛西部的赤道东印度洋海区。这2个模态基本刻画了ENSO循环过程中热带两大洋热含量变化的关键海区。利用合成分析结果与EOF分解结果的相似性,探讨了EOF分解前两个模态之间的转换过程,发现第一模态可能主要是通过海洋波动的传播过程调整到第二模态的,而第二模态还可以作为El Nino或La Nina事件的预报因子。此外,分析结果还表明,El Nino事件与La Nina事件对应的热含量变化并不是反对称的。  相似文献