风浪频谱中的特征量   总被引：4，自引：3，他引：4       下载免费PDF全文

侯一筠  王涛 《海洋与湖沼》1993,24(2):126-131

在三参量风浪频谱的基础上对谱参量进行深入地研究,给出了谱参量与风场要素、波场要素的关系,提供了依据风场要素、波场要素及实测波浪资料计算谱参量的方法。从而可以依据上述因素直接计算出三参量风浪频谱。此外还根据谱宽度的变化,描述了风浪频谱的成长方式,解释了传统的波陡、波龄关系中经验常数的不同选取所代表的物理背景。  相似文献   

珠江口现代沉积速率及其反映的沉积特征   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

陈耀泰  罗章仁 《热带海洋学报》1991,(2)

文章分析了珠江河口海区泥沙来源及淤积动态,采用以历史海图分析对比为主,~(210)Pb测年数据校核等方法,参考有关沉积速率定性方面的标志,推算出珠江口不同地段的现代沉积速率,并相应划分出高速率沉积、快速率沉积、中速率沉积和慢速率沉积或稍有侵蚀等4个分区.进而,还论述了沉积作用的特征.  相似文献   

Effect of wave-directionality on second-order loads induced by the set-down     

B. Molin  V. Fauveau 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(2):66-72

At first-order of approximation a sea-state may be considered as an infinite sum of Airy components with angular frequencies ω_i and wave-number vectors k_i. A second-order analysis shows the co-existence of long waves appearing at the difference frequencies ω_i—ω_j with wave-number vectors k_i—k_j. In shallow water they become appreciable in amplitudes and may induce slow-drift motion of moored structures.For small values of ω_i—ω_j,k_i—k_j may take all kinds of directions for an angular-spread wave system. Then it may be questioned how the in-line and transverse second-order accelerations compare to those obtained for a mono-directional wave-system.This analysis is carried out here by relating the spectra of the second-order horizontal accelerations to the directional wave-spectrum. Numerical applications are first performed for deep water. They show that at low frequencies, even for very narrowly spread wave systems, the transverse component is larger than the in-line component. In shallow water both components are dratically reduced as compared to the mono-directional case. As a consequence one may question the validity of model-testings or numerical models which take no account of the directionality of the wave-system.  相似文献   

Scattering of Semidiurnal Internal Kelvin Wave at Step Bottom Topography     

Yuji?KawamuraEmail author  Yujiro?Kitade  Masaji?Matsuyama 《Journal of Oceanography》2005,61(1):59-68

A three-dimensional, multi-level model was used to study the energy dissipation of semidiurnal internal Kelvin waves due to their interaction with bottom topography. A simplified topography consisting of a channel with an additional shallow bay was used to clarify the wave’s scattering process. When the first mode semidiurnal internal wave given at an open boundary arrives at the bay mouth, higher-mode internal waves are generated at a step bottom of the bay mouth. As a result, the energy of the first mode internal Kelvin wave is effectively decayed. The decay rate of the internal Kelvin wave depends on both the width and length of the additional bay. The maximum decay rate was found when a resonance condition occurs the bay, that is, the bay length is equal to a quarter of wave length of the first mode internal wave on the shallow region. The decay rate in the wide bay cases is higher than that in a narrow case, due to a contribution from the scattering due to the Poincare wave that emanates from the corners of the bay head. The decay rate with the additional bay is 1.1–1.8 times that of the case without the additional bay. The decay rate due to the scattering process is found to be of the same order as that of the internal and bottom friction.  相似文献   

On the recovery of surface wave by pressure transfer function     

Cheng-Han Tsai  Min-Chih Huang  Fu-Ji Young  Yin-Chern Lin  Hsien-Wen Li 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(10):4936-1259

Except the commonly selected pressure transfer function derived from the linear wave theory, a previous study on the pressure transfer function for recovering surface wave from underwater pressure transducer suggested that the pressure transfer function is a function of frequency parameter only. With careful analysis, this study showed that the pressure transfer function should include a transducer submergence parameter as that given by the linear theory. It was found that the previously suggested empirical formula should be restricted to measurements with the pressure transducer close to the surface; otherwise overestimation of wave height would result. Field measurements were carried out with an acoustic wave gauge and a synchronized pressure transducer located at various depths with submergence parameter close to 1 (near the sea floor). It was shown that the previous one-parameter empirical formula might overestimate the significant wave height by more than 30%. This study found that with deep-water wave bursts excluded, the transfer function based on the linear wave theory provided a fairly good estimation on the significant wave heights, with an average deviation of 3.6%.  相似文献   

Fuzzy Fatigue Reliability Analysis of Offshore Platforms in Ice-Infested Waters   总被引：3，自引：3，他引：3  

方华灿  段梦兰  贾星兰  谢彬 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(3)

1 .IntroductionTheBohaiGulfisinfestedbyiceinthewholewinter,andoffshorestructuresthereexperiencenotonlywind ,waves ,currentsandearthquake ,butalsoiceloadswhicharecomplicatedbecauseofthedynamicinteractionbetweenicesheetsandstructures.Duanetal.( 2 0 0 0 )hadacomprehensivere viewofthelatestadvancesonice inducedvibration ,fatigueandfractureofoffshorestructures ,payingmuchattentiontothedifferencesinicebreakingmodeanddynamicsofstructuresindifferentice in festedwaters .Theypresentedcriticallythelates…  相似文献   

Wave-Current Forces on Vertical Cylinders in Side-by-Side Arrangement for Irregular Waves Combined With Opposing Current     

Li Yucheng Wang Fenglong Professor  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Senior Engineer  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1993,(1)

- The wave-current forces on vertical piles in side-by-side arrangement induced by irregular waves with opposing current are investigated experimentally in this paper. The characteristics in both time and frequency domain of in-line, lift and resultant forces are analyzed. The grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on piles related to KC number and relative spacing parameters are given. These results are compared with those in the case of irregular waves combined with following currents. It is found that the results in these two cases are quite different. The range of KC number tested is 10- 60, the range of Reynolds number is (0.55-3.43) ×104.  相似文献   

The Nonlinear Wave Force on a Circular Cylinder in Shallow Water     

Qiu Dahong 《中国海洋工程》1992,(2)

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.  相似文献   

A Computational Model for Velocity Separation in Shallow Sea   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

SONG  Zhiyao 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(3):407-413

Based on the hydrodynamical feature and the theoretical velocity profiles of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow in shal-low sea, a computational model is established for the first time, which can separate observed velocity into tidal velocity and wind-induced velocity by use of the least square method. With the model, not only the surface velocities of tidal flow and vvind-induced flow are obtained, but also the bed roughness height is determined and the wind velocity above the wa-ter surface is estimated. For verification of the model, the observed velocity in the Yellow River Estuary and the laborato-ry test is separated, then it is applied to the Yangtze River Estuary. All the results are satisfactory. The research results show that the model is simple in method, feasible in process and reasonable in result. The model is a valid approach to analysis and computation of field dala, and can be applied to separate the observed velocity in shallow sea; at the same time, reasonable boundary conditions of th  相似文献   

Experimental study of reflection coefficient and wave forces acting on perforated caisson     

Chen Xuefeng  Li Yucheng  Sun Dapeng  Chen Renyou 《海洋学报(英文版)》2002,21(3):451-460

The reflection coefficient and the total horizontal forces of regular waves acting on theperforated caisson are experimentally investigated. The empirical relationship between reflection coefficient and the ratio of the total horizontal forces acting on the perforated caisson to those on solid vertical walls with the relative chamber width, relative water depth and porosity of perforated wall, etc. are given. Moreover, the results of the ratio of the total horizontal forces are also compared with formulas given by Chinese Harbour Design Criteria and Takahashi, which may be useful for the practical engineering application.  相似文献