Wave run-up and overtopping on smooth and rough slopes of coastal structures     

N. J. Shankar  M. P. R. Jayaratne 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(2):221-238

A series of hydraulic model tests has been carried out in a glass wave flume to investigate the influences of wave height, wave period, wave steepness, surf similarity parameter, roughness, layer thickness and porosity on wave run-up and overtopping of 1:2 sloped impermeable and permeable breakwaters fronted by a 1:10 gentle, smooth beach slope. The analysis of results involves the correlation between the overtopping energy transfer with the relative wall height and the relationship between wave run-up and overtopping rate. Further, measured wave run-up and overtopping rates are compared with the results given in the Shore Protection Manual (1984), Automated Coastal Engineering System (1992)and results of other investigators.  相似文献   

An improved multiple-frequency method for measuring in situ target strengths     

Conti  Stephane G.; Demer  David A.; Soule  Michael A.; Conti  Jean H.E. 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2005,62(8):1636-1646

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Calibration of JASON-1 Altimeter over Lake Erie     

C. Shum  Y. Yi  K. Cheng  C. Kuo  A. Braun  S. Calmant  D. Chambers 《Marine Geodesy》2003,26(3):335-354

This article describes absolute calibration results for both JASON-1 and TOPEX Side B (TSB) altimeters obtained at the Lake Erie calibration site, Marblehead, Ohio, USA. Using 15 overflights, the estimated JASON altimeter bias at Marblehead is 58 ± 38 mm, with an uncertainty of 19 mm based on detailed error analysis. Assuming that the TSB bias is negligible, relative bias estimates using both data from the TSB-JASON formation flight period and data from 48 water level gauges around the entire Great Lakes confirmed the Marblehead results. Global analyses using both the formation flight data and dual-satellite (TSB and JASON) crossovers yield a similar relative bias estimate of 146 ± 59 mm, which agrees well with open ocean absolute calibration results obtained at Harvest, Corsica, and Bass Strait (e.g., Watson et al. 2003). We find that there is a strong dependence of bias estimates on the choice of sea state bias (SSB) models. Results indicate that the invariant JASON instrument bias estimated oceanwide is 71 mm, with additional biases of 76 mm or 28 mm contributed by the choice of Collecte Localisation Satellites (CLS) SSB or Center for Space Research (CSR) SSB model, respectively. Similar analysis in the Great Lakes yields the invariant JASON instrument bias at 19 mm, with the SSB contributed biases at 58 mm or 13 mm, respectively. The reason for the discrepancy is currently unknown and warrants further investigation. Finally, comparison of the TOPEX/POSEIDON mission (1992-2002) data with the Great Lakes water level gauge measurements yields a negligible TOPEX altimeter drift of 0.1 mm/yr.  相似文献   

Long-Period Distribution of Wave Heights and Its Application     

Weng Keqin Associate Professor  Hydraulic  Hydro-Power Engineering Dept.  Tsinghua University  Beijing 《中国海洋工程》1995,(2)

This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.  相似文献   

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系     

黄树生 《海洋学研究》1994,12(4):1-8

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。  相似文献   

山东蓬莱西庄附近海域波浪与海岸侵蚀     

陈雪英  胡泽建 《海洋科学进展》1992,(2)

本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据.  相似文献   

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water     

Li Yucheng 《海洋学报(英文版)》1996,15(2):261-272

Ｔｈｅｗａｖｅｔｒａｎｓｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｐｈｅｎｏｍｅｎａｉｎｓｈａｌｌｏｗｗａｔｅｒ￥ＬｉＹｕｃｈｅｎｇ（１．ＤａｌｉａｎＵｎｉｖｅｒｓｉｔｙｏｆＴｅｃｈｎｏｌｏｇｙ，Ｄａｌｉａｎ１１６０２３，Ｃｈｉｎａ）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ：...  相似文献   

规则波和不规则波作用下消波建筑物前的波高分析   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

李荣庆  谢世楞 《海洋工程》1994,(1)

消波建筑物在国内外已得到广泛应用。本文采用近似方法分析了明基床上直立式消波建筑物前的波高及消波室内的波高，从而确定建筑物的消波效果。并在规则波的基础上将成果推广至不规则波作用下的情况。  相似文献   

海洋环流模式中不同近似假设下的海表高度   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1  

李薇  张学洪  金向泽 《海洋科学进展》2003,21(2):132-141

Boussinesq近似是现代海洋环流模式中经常采用的假设，但随着海洋模式的不断发展完善以及气候研究应用的需要，有必要估算Boussinesq近似造成的模式误差。分别利用一个非Boussinesq近似的海洋模式与另一个结构相同且采用Boussinesq近似的模式计算海表高度，并同时利用模式预报的温度、盐度资料计算了比容异常高度。分析结果显示，这3种不同定义的海表高度无论空间结构，还是时间演变，都基本类似，尤其在热带海区最接近，差值≤1cm。Boussinesq近似意味着在模式中以体积守恒代替质量守恒，通常的做法是对其进行简单的质量补偿来保持质量守恒。比较说明，以质量补偿方法进行的高度订正对减小Boussinesq近似带来的误差没有本质的意义。  相似文献   

南海海面高度季节变化的数值模拟   总被引：8，自引：1，他引：8  

刘秦玉  杨海军  贾英来  甘子钧 《海洋学报》2001,23(2):9-17

比较POM模式模拟与观测(TOPEX/Poseidon高度计资料)的南海海面高度(SSH)的季节变化在空间分布上的一致性和差异.结果表明:本文使用的POM模式能较好地模拟南海SSH的季节变化;冬季与夏季,春季与秋季南海海面异常场形式完全相反,冬季Ekman输运造成在西海岸的堆积要比夏季在东海岸堆积更明显,而吕宋冷涡中心附近和吕宋海峡海面季节变化振幅最大;除春季以外,在南海绝大部分海域,海面高度的季节变化主要受风力的控制,南海海面热量通量对SSH的季节变化贡献约为20%,风应力对SSH的季节变化的贡献约为80%.  相似文献