Flow fields in reflected waves at a sloped sea wall     

Gerald Müller   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(11-12):1786-1789

Wave run-up, and flow visualization experiments were conducted with a 1:2 sloped sea wall model. The visualization experiments gave an overview of flow fields in reflected, non-breaking conditions. Maximum particle velocities were found to be significantly smaller than suggested in the literature. Downrush produced a fast sheet flow, extending down to the toe of the sea wall. This created a ‘reverse’ breaker during the retreat of the initially non-breaking wave, which explains the high-energy dissipation rates for non-breaking waves reported in the literature. Embankments may therefore be exposed to wave impact pressures in areas up to 1.18H₀ below MWL.  相似文献   

Seasonal Variability of Near-Surface Heat Budget of Selected Oceanic Areas in the North Tropical Indian Ocean   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Chithra Shaji  Satoshi Iizuka  Tomonori Matsuura 《Journal of Oceanography》2003,59(1):87-103

The results obtained from an Ocean General Circulation Model (OGCM), the Modular Ocean Model 2.2, forced with the National Center for Environmental Prediction/National Center for Atmospheric Research reanalysis data, and observational data have been utilized to document the climatological seasonal cycle of the upper ocean response in the Tropical Indian Ocean. We address the various roles played by the net surface heat flux and the local and remote ocean dynamics for the seasonal variation of near-surface heat budget in the Tropical Indian Ocean. The investigation is based in seven selected boxes in the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal and the Equatorial Indian Ocean. The changes of basin-wide heat budget of ocean process in the Arabian Sea and the Western Equatorial Indian Ocean show an annual cycle, whereas those in the Bay of Bengal and the Eastern Equatorial Indian Ocean show a semi-annual cycle. The time tendency of heat budget in the Arabian Sea depends on both the net surface heat flux and ocean dynamics while on the other hand, that in the Bay of Bengal depends mainly on the net surface flux. However, it has been found that the changes of heat budget are very different between western and eastern regional sea areas in the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal, respectively. This difference depends on seasonal variations of the different local wind forcing and the different ocean dynamics associated with ocean eddies and Kelvin and Rossby waves in each regional sea areas. We also discuss the comparison and the connection for the seasonal variation of near-surface heat budget among their regional sea areas. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

On the adequacy of second-order models to predict abnormal waves     

P. Petrova  Z. Cherneva  C. Guedes Soares   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(7):956-961

The paper is intended to extend the investigations about the nature of abnormal waves that have been reported in the work of Guedes Soares et al. (Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea states. Applied Ocean Research 25, [337–344]). The same dataset gathered at the oil platform North Alwyn in the North Sea during the November storm in 1997 is used along with the time series from the Draupner platform, in which an abnormal wave occurred. The data are reanalyzed from the viewpoint of the applicability of second-order models to fit large waves. The observed results confirm that the second-order approximation is not adequate to describe highly asymmetric and abnormal waves.  相似文献   

Experimental survey of the hydrodynamic performance of a small spar buoy     

Rgis Capobianco  Vincent Rey  Olivier Le Calv 《Applied Ocean Research》2002,24(6):309-320

The objective in this experimental work is to evaluate the capability of several cylindrical buoys to follow and measure waves. Eleven configurations have been studied, eight among which were furnished with disks of different diameters at the waterline. The experiments took place in the test basin at ISITV. On the one hand, we have obtained a set of transfer coefficients for each frequency and each configuration in regular waves. On the other hand, we have determined the corresponding transfer functions, then we have used the latter to measure irregular waves. The time signals as measured by the buoys with and without corrections have been compared with wave gage measurements and subjected to a wave-by-wave analysis. The results allow the conclusion that the buoy with a medium size disk constitutes the best compromise. In fact, it permits the buoy to follow the free surface while minimizing parasitic motions.  相似文献   

Aspects of Deep Ocean Mixing     

Chris Garrett  Louis St. Laurent 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):11-24

The turbulent motions responsible for ocean mixing occur on scales much smaller than those resolved in numerical simulations of oceanic flows. Great progress has been made in understanding the sources of energy for mixing, the mechanisms, and the rates. On the other hand, we still do not have adequate answers to first order questions such as the extent to which the thermohaline circulation of the ocean, and hence the earth's climate, is sensitive to the present mixing rates in the ocean interior. Internal waves, generated by either wind or flow over topography, appear to be the principle cause of mixing. Mean and eddy flows over topography generate internal lee waves, while tidal flows over topography generate internal tides. The relative importance of these different internal wave sources is unknown. There are also great uncertainties about the spatial and temporal variation of mixing. Calculations of internal tide generation are becoming increasingly robust, but we do not know enough about the subsequent behavior of internal tides and their eventual breakdown into turbulence. It does seem, however, that most internal tide energy flux is radiated away from generation sites as low modes that propagate over basin scales. The mechanisms of wave-wave interaction and topographic scattering both act to transfer wave energy from low modes to smaller dissipative scales. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

Distribution of the Neogene Utsira Sand and the succeeding deposits in the Viking Graben area, North Sea     

U. Gregersen  P.N. Johannessen 《Marine and Petroleum Geology》2007,24(10):591-606

The sandy quartzose parts of the Utsira Formation, the Middle Miocene to mid Pliocene Utsira Sand, extends north–south along the Viking Graben near the UK/Norwegian median line for more than 450 km and 75–130 km east–west. The Utsira Sand is located in basin-restricted seismic depocentres, east of and below prograding sandy units from the Shetland Platform area with Hutton Sands. The Utsira Sand reaches thicknesses up to ca. 300 m in the southern depocentre and 200 m in the two northern depocentres with sedimentation rates up to 2–4 cm/ka. Succeeding Plio–Pleistocene is divided into seismic units, including Base Upper Pliocene, Shale Drape, Prograding Complex and Pleistocene. The units mainly consist of clay, but locally minor sands occur, especially at toes of prograding clinoforms (bottom-set sands) and in the Pleistocene parts, and the total thickness covering the Utsira Sand is in most places more than 800 m, but thins towards the margins.  相似文献   

An experimental study on non-linear progressive wave-induced dynamic stresses in seabed     

S.C. Chang  J.G. Lin  L.K. Chien  Y.F. Chiu   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(17-18):2311-2329

In this study, the dynamic stresses within the seabed induced by non-linear progressive waves were explored through a series of hydraulic model tests on a movable bed within a wave flume. By comparing Stokes’ 2nd-order wave theory with the theory of wave-induced dynamic stresses within the seabed as proposed by Yamamoto et al. [1978. On the response of a poro-elastic bed to water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 87 (1), 193–206.] and Hsu and Jeng [1994. Wane-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. International Journal for Numerical and Analytical Methods in Geomechanics 18, 785–807], the experimental results show that the pressure on the seabed surface, the pore water pressure within the seabed as well as the vertical and the horizontal stresses are all smaller than their theoretical values. If we were to obtain the characteristics of seabed soil, the analytical solution of Hsu and Jeng [1994. Wane-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. International Journal for Numerical and Analytical Methods in Geomechanics 18, 785–807] might agree to the simulation of the wave-induced effective stresses and shear stress in the sandy seabed. A different phase shift exists among all the three soil stresses. Their influences on the three dynamic stresses within seabed soil are important for seabed stability, and can be used in the verification of numerical models. In the whole, the non-linear progressive waves and the naturally deposited seabed are found to have a strong interaction, and the behavior of the induced dynamic stresses within the seabed is very complicated, and should be investigated integrally.  相似文献   

湄洲湾泥沙活动及海底冲淤变化   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

郭允谋  杨顺良 《台湾海峡》1993,12(1):8-15

湄洲湾沙源少,海水含沙量低,平均值10～20g/m~3。冬季受东北季风及浙闽沿岸流影响,湾口含沙量高,达到34g/m~3;夏季受径流影响,湾内含沙量相对偏高,达到16g/m~3。泥沙的运移趋势:主航道基本朝外,两侧朝里。受强潮流作用,深槽及水下潮流冲沟受到冲刷,斜坡及潮坪略有淤积。  相似文献   

Drag force on a circular cylinder in unseparated laminar high Reynolds number nonlinear random oscillatory flow     

Dag Myrhaug  Hanne T. Wist  Lars Erik Holmedal 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(17):2227-2238

The stochastic properties of the drag force maxima on a circular cylinder subjected to nonlinear random waves are investigated. Unseparated laminar high Reynolds number flow is considered. A simplified approach based on second order Stokes waves is presented, including the sum-frequency effect only. It is demonstrated how a drag force formula valid for regular linear waves can be used to find the cumulative distribution function of individual drag force maxima for nonlinear irregular waves. Here the [Wang, 1968] drag force coefficient is used.  相似文献   

Storms and shoreline retreat in the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Donald L. Forbes  George S. Parkes  Gavin K. Manson  Lorne A. Ketch 《Marine Geology》2004,210(1-4):169-204

Storms play a major role in shoreline recession on transgressive coasts. In the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence (GSL), southeastern Canada, long-term relative sea-level rise off the North Shore of Prince Edward Island has averaged 0.3 m/century over the past 6000 years (>0.2 m/century over 2000 years). This has driven long-term coastal retreat at mean rates >0.5 m/a but the variance and details of coastal profile response remain poorly understood. Despite extensive sandy shores, sediment supply is limited and sand is transferred landward into multidecadal to century-scale storage in coastal dunes, barrier washover deposits, and flood-tidal delta sinks. Charlottetown tide-gauge records show mean relative sea-level rise of 3.2 mm/a (0.32 m/century) since 1911. A further rise of 0.7±0.4 m is projected over the next 100 years. When differenced from tidal predictions, the water-level data provide a 90-year record of storm-surge occurrence. Combined with wind, wave hindcast, and sea-ice data, this provides a catalogue of potentially significant coastal storms. We also document coastal impacts from three recent storms of great severity in January and October 2000 and November 2001. Digital photogrammetry (1935–1990) and shore-zone surveys (1989–2001) show large spatial and temporal variance in coastal recession rates, weakly correlated with the storm record, in part because of wave suppression or coastal protection by sea ice. Large storms cause rapid erosion from which recovery depends in part on local sand supply, but barrier volume may be conserved by washover deposition. Barrier shores with dunes show high longshore and interdecadal variance, with extensive multidecadal healing of former inlet and overwash gaps. This reflects recovery from an episode of widespread overwash prior to 1935, possibly initiated by intense storms or groups of storms in the latter half of the 19th century. With evidence from the storms of 2000–2001, this points to the importance of storm clustering on scales of weeks to years in determining erosion vulnerability, as well as the need for a long-term, large-scale perspective in assessing coastal stability. The expected acceleration in relative sea-level rise, together with projections of increasing storm intensity and greatly diminished winter ice cover in the southern GSL, implies a significant increase in coastal erosion hazards in future.  相似文献