Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water     

Li Yucheng 《海洋学报(英文版)》1996,15(2):261-272

Ｔｈｅｗａｖｅｔｒａｎｓｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｐｈｅｎｏｍｅｎａｉｎｓｈａｌｌｏｗｗａｔｅｒ￥ＬｉＹｕｃｈｅｎｇ（１．ＤａｌｉａｎＵｎｉｖｅｒｓｉｔｙｏｆＴｅｃｈｎｏｌｏｇｙ，Ｄａｌｉａｎ１１６０２３，Ｃｈｉｎａ）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ：...  相似文献   

钛型吸附剂的表面特性     

谢式南  王俊鹤  周英兰  孙爱平 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1990,(3)

用自装的BET容量法装置测定了几种粒状钛型吸附剂的比表面及其孔径分布。测定是在常温减压下进行的。结果表明:钛型吸附剂在加铀海水中的吸铀量与样品的比表面及孔径分布有一定的内在联系。这种表面性质的研究对吸附剂的筛选有重要的指导意义。  相似文献   

Fluid flow equations governing primary oil migration as a separate phase     

Ismail Ozkaya 《Marine and Petroleum Geology》1989,6(4)

A mathematical model of primary oil migration as a separate phase out of compacting shales is presented. During burial and oil generation, source rock porosity decreases and oil saturation increases until residual oil saturation is reached. At this stage oil is expelled out by capillary and excess fluid pressure gradients. The model is a system of differential equations which relate changes in oil and water saturation in time to water and oil flow out of the source rock during burial. An additional set of equations for periods of erosion of overburden are also provided. The equations can be numerically solved by finite difference method. If oil and water flow is to be simulated during oil generation, then at each time step, changes by oil generation in oil and water saturations and porosity must be calculated. The solution procedure is briefly outlined.  相似文献   

Towards the identification of warning criteria: Analysis of a ship accident database   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

A. Toffoli  J.M. Lefvre  E. Bitner-Gregersen  J. Monbaliu 《Applied Ocean Research》2005,27(6):281-291

  相似文献   

Nonlinear coupled dynamic response of offshore Spar platforms under regular sea waves     

A. K. Agarwal  A. K. Jain 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(4):492-551

Many innovative floating offshore structures have been proposed for cost effectiveness of oil and gas exploration and production in water depths exceeding one thousand meters in recent years. One such type of platform is the offshore floating Spar platform. The Spar platform is modelled as a rigid body with six degrees-of-freedom, connected to the sea floor by multi-component catenary mooring lines, which are attached to the Spar platform at the fairleads. The response dependent stiffness matrix consists of two parts (a) the hydrostatics provide restoring force in heave, roll and pitch, (b) the mooring lines provide the restoring force which are represented here by nonlinear horizontal springs. A unidirectional regular wave model is used for computing the incident wave kinematics by Airy’s wave theory and force by Morison’s equation. The response analysis is performed in time domain to solve the dynamic behavior of the moored Spar platform as an integrated system using the iterative incremental Newmark’s Beta approach. Numerical studies are conducted for sea state conditions with and without coupling of degrees-of-freedom.  相似文献   

珠江三角洲网河区水位变化趋势研究   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

沈焕庭  杨清书  罗宪林  罗章仁  杨干然  欧素英 《海洋学报》2002,24(2):30-38

根据珠江三角洲网河区29个验潮站的实测验潮记录,应用傅氏变换与最平滤波器串联的方法来消除月均序列的周期波动对确定水位变化趋势的影响,由低通序列一元线性回归分析确定各站水位的变化趋势;结果表明,周期波动对确定海平面变化趋势的影响是显著的.应用经验正交函数(EOF)对网河区的水位变化场进行分解,由相互独立的时间函数和空间特征函数表征网河区区域的水位变化特征;应用时间特征函数计算区域水位的平均变化率为0.02mm/a.根据验潮站的水位变化趋势,探讨网河区水位变化与河床冲淤的关系.  相似文献   

关于Mckenzie沉积盆地初始沉降公式的修正     

毕传学  王良书 《海洋学研究》1993,11(2):9-12

根据Airy均衡原理对Mckenzie沉积盆地初始沉降公式进行了修正,并导出了公式的正确表达式 S=(a[(ρ_o-ρ_c)t_c/a(1-(aT_1t_c)/(2a))-(aT_1ρ_o)/2](1-1/β))/(ρ_o(1-aT_1)-ρ_w)  相似文献   

关于具二次约束最小二乘问题的敏度分析     

刘新国 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1996,(2)

本文系统地研究具二次约束最小二乘问题的敏度分析。首先给出长期方程唯一正根的上界和下界；然后证明割线法用于计算拉格朗日乘子时全局收敛；最后给出解的扰动界。  相似文献   

An infinity of conservation laws of fKdV equation     

Xu Zhaoting  Xu Yu  Tian Jiwei 《海洋学报(英文版)》1997,16(1):19-28

An infinity of conservation laws of fKdV equation is derived in terms of the Miura and Gardner''s transform.The pseudo-mass and energy theorems are studied by the first two conservation laws.As a typical example,the theoretical mean wave resistance and the regional distribution of energy of the precursor soliton generation are determined by means of the first and the second conservation laws.  相似文献