Distribution of nonlinear wave crests     

J. Al-Humoud  M. A. Tayfun  H. Askar 《Ocean Engineering》2002,29(15):1929-1943

The distribution of nonlinear wave crests is examined on the basis of a theoretical probability density previously given elsewhere (J. Eng. Mech. 120 (1994) 1009). Certain errors contained in the original theoretical density are corrected, and the corresponding exceedance distribution is derived. The resulting theoretical forms of the probability density and exceedance distribution are then slightly simplified and compared with nonlinear wave data gathered under hurricane conditions. The results indicate that the proposed theoretical forms describe the observed distributions of large wave crests better than the Rayleigh law. However, the quantitative accuracy of the predictions is somewhat poor, as is typical of approximate theories based on Gram–Charlier-type expansions.  相似文献   

东海温度锋的分布特征及其季节变异   总被引：8，自引：4，他引：8  

汤毓祥 《海洋与湖沼》1996,27(4):436-444

根据１９３４－１９８８年东海水文观测资料，重点分析东海温度锋的分布特征及其季节变异，并结合近期中日黑潮合作调查研究成果，初步探讨温度锋季节变异和水团演变的关系，所得主要结论是：（１）东海不仅常年存在浙闽沿岸锋，东海北部陆架锋和黑潮锋，而且、春、夏两季，在东海南部还出现一条东海中部出架锋。（２）江海温度锋季节变化的特点是：冬季，锋的宽度和强度皆是表层最强，夏季，表层温度锋仅出现在浙江近岸小范围海域。  相似文献   

Anomalous change of the Antarctic sea ice and global sea level change   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Xie Simei  Zou Bing  Wang Yi  Bao Chenglan 《海洋学报(英文版)》1996,15(2):193-208

ＡｎｏｍａｌｏｕｓｃｈａｎｇｅｏｆｔｈｅＡｎｔａｒｃｔｉｃｓｅａｉｃｅａｎｄｇｌｏｂａｌｓｅａｌｅｖｅｌｃｈａｎｇｅ￥ＸｉｅＳｉｍｅｉ;ＺｏｕＢｉｎｇ;ＷａｎｇＹｉａｎｄＢａｏＣｈｅｎｇｌａｎ（１．ＮａｔｉｏｎａｌＭａｒｉｎｅＥｎｖｉｒｏｎｍｅｎｔＦ...  相似文献   

Numerical study of the summer temperature decrease induced by the enhancement of estuarine circulation in Fukuoka Bay     

Kazuhiro Aoki  Atsuhiko Isobe 《Journal of Oceanography》2006,62(2):207-217

The Princeton Ocean Model with realistic bottom topography has been used to investigate the summer temperature decrease in the past 25 years in Fukuoka Bay. The vertical mixing of the model is expressed by a scheme that effectively includes the influences of interannual variations of tidal currents and wind. The results show that the historical temperature decrease in summer has been caused by tidal currents and wind weakening in the past 25 years in Fukuoka Bay. The weakening of tidal currents and wind gives rise to weakening of the vertical mixing, and to enhancement of the estuarine circulation in the bay. The enhancement of the estuarine circulation activates the inflow of open-ocean water toward Fukuoka Bay. Coastal water in summer has therefore tended to be colder and more saline in the past 25 years. This interannual variation in coastal waters is called “open-oceanization” in this study. On the basis of the numerical model, it is anticipated that the temperature will decrease by 0.2°C in the next 25 years in Fukuoka Bay if the tide and wind weaken persistently as in the present bay.  相似文献   

Wave runup on a concentric twin perforated circular cylinder     

K. Vijayalakshmi  S. Neelamani  R. Sundaravadivelu  K. Murali 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(2):327-336

The regular wave interaction with a twin concentric porous circular cylinder system consisting of an inner impermeable cylinder and an outer perforated cylinder was studied through physical model and numerical model studies. The experiments were carried out on the twin concentric cylinder model in a wave flume to study the wave runup and rundown at the leading and trailing edges of the perforated cylinder. It was found that the maximum wave runup on the perforated cylinder is almost same as the incident wave height. The experimental results were used to develop the predictive formulae for the wave runup and rundown on the perforated cylinder, which can be easily used for design applications. The wave runup profiles around the perforated cylinder for different values of ka and porosities were studied numerically using Green's Identity Method. The results of the numerical study are presented and compared with the experimental measurements.  相似文献   

On the radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Y.H. Zheng  P.F. Liu  Y.M. Shen  B.J. Wu  S.W. Sheng 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(3-4):436-450

The radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas of finite depth is investigated. The analytical expressions for the radiated and diffracted potentials are derived as infinite series by use of the method of separation of variables. The unknown coefficients in the series are determined by the eigenfunction expansion matching method. The expressions for wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients and reflection and transmission coefficients are given and verified by the boundary element method. Using the present analytical solution, the hydrodynamic influences of the angle of incidence, the submergence, the width and the thickness of the structure on the wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients, and reflection and transmission coefficients are discussed in detail.  相似文献   

Wave interaction with a perforated wall breakwater with a submerged horizontal porous plate   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Yong Liu  Yu-cheng Li  Bin Teng 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(17-18):2364-2373

This study examines the hydrodynamic performance of a new perforated-wall breakwater. The breakwater consists of a perforated front wall, a solid back wall and a submerged horizontal porous plate installed between them. The horizontal porous plate enhances the stability and wave-absorbing capacity of the structure. An analytical solution based on linear potential theory is developed for the interaction of water waves with the new proposed breakwater. According to the division of the structure, the whole fluid domain is divided into three sub-domains, and the velocity potential in each domain is obtained using the matched eigenfunction method. Then the reflection coefficient and the wave forces and moments on the perforated front wall and the submerged horizontal porous plate are calculated. The numerical results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as previous predictions for a perforated-wall breakwater with a submerged horizontal solid plate [Yip, T.L., Chwang, A.T., 2000. Perforated wall breakwater with internal horiontal plate. Journal of Engineering Mechanics ASCE 126 (5), 533–538] and a vertical wall with a submerged horizontal porous plate [Wu, J.H., Wan, Z.P., Fang, Y., 1998. Wave reflection by a vertical wall with a horizontal submerged porous plate. Ocean Engineering 25 (9), 767–779]. Numerical results show that with suitable geometric porosity of the front wall and horizontal plate, the reflection coefficient will be always rather small if the relative wave absorbing chamber width (distance between the front and back walls versus incident wavelength) exceeds a certain small value. In addition, the wave force and moment on the horizontal plate decrease significantly with the increase of the plate porosity.  相似文献   

Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

M. Aziz Tayfun   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(11-12):1589-1622

Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly.  相似文献   

Comparison of the biology, dynamics, and secondary production of Talorchestia brito (Amphipoda, Talitridae) in Atlantic (Portugal) and Mediterranean (Tunisia) populations     

S. C. Gonalves  J. C. Marques  M. A. Pardal  M. F. Bouslama  M. El Gtari  F. Charfi-Cheikhrouha 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,58(4):901-916

The biology, population dynamics, and production of Talorchestia brito were studied at two sandy beaches located on the Atlantic (Portugal) and on the Mediterranean (Tunisia) coasts, respectively. The seasonal variation in abundance and the overall densities were similar in both populations. Reproduction occurred from February to September in the Atlantic, and from March to early November in the Mediterranean. The sex ratio was male biased in the Atlantic, and female biased in the Mediterranean. Based on data from the Atlantic population, both abundance and the proportion of reproductive females were positively correlated with temperature, while the proportion of juveniles in the population was positively correlated with temperature and sediment moisture. On average, individuals from the Atlantic were larger than the ones from the Mediterranean. Life span was estimated at six to nine months in the Atlantic, and five to eight months in the Mediterranean. Talorchestia brito was shown to be a semiannual species, with iteroparous females producing two broods per year, and exhibited a bivoltine life cycle. The minimum age required for males' and females' sexual differentiation and for female sexual maturation was shorter in the Mediterranean. Growth production (P) was estimated at 0.19 g m⁻² y⁻¹ ash free dry weight (AFDW; 4.3 kJ m⁻² y⁻¹) in the Atlantic population, and 0.217 g m⁻² y⁻¹ AFDW (4.9 kJ m⁻² y⁻¹) in the Mediterranean one. Elimination production (E) was estimated at 0.35 g m⁻² y⁻¹ AFDW (7.9 kJ m⁻² y⁻¹) in the Atlantic, and 0.28 g m⁻² y⁻¹ AFDW (6.3 kJ m⁻² y⁻¹) in the Mediterranean. The average annual biomass ( ) (standing stock) was estimated at 0.032 g m⁻² in the Atlantic beach, and 0.029 g m⁻² in the Mediterranean one, resulting, respectively, in ratios of 5.9 and 7.5 and ratios of 10.8 and 9.6. Like other talitrids, T. brito exhibited geographic variation in morphometrical characteristics, sex ratio, growth rates, life span, and reproduction period, with the Atlantic population presenting a slower life history.  相似文献   

Neural network for wave forecasting among multi-stations     

Ching-Piao Tsai  Chang Lin  Jia-N Shen 《Ocean Engineering》2002,29(13):1685-1695

Unlike in the open sea, the use of wind information for forecasting waves may encounter more ambiguous uncertainties in the coastal or harbor area due to the influence of complicated geometric configurations. Thus this paper attempts to forecast the waves based on learning the characteristics of observed waves, rather than the use of the wind information. This is reported in this paper by the application of the artificial neural network (ANN), in which the back-propagation algorithm is employed in the learning process for obtaining the desired results. This model evaluated the interconnection weights among multi-stations based on the previous short-term data, from which a time series of waves at a station can be generated for forecasting or data supplement based on using the neighbor stations data. Field data are used for testing the applicability of the ANN model. The results show that the ANN model performs well for both wave forecasting and data supplement when using a short-term observed wave data.  相似文献