Dynamic properties of green water event in the overtopping of extreme waves on a fixed dock     

Nobuhito Mori  Daniel T. Cox 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(16):2021-2052

A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values.  相似文献   

渤海湾表层沉积物重金属与污染评价   总被引：10，自引：2，他引：10       下载免费PDF全文

秦延文  苏一兵  郑丙辉  张雷  万峻 《海洋科学》2007,31(12):28-33

用原子吸收法测定了渤海湾表层沉积物中重金属的含量,同时用2种评价方法对该海域底质环境进行了评价。结果表明:沉积物中汞、锌含量平均值超过标准,其余项目未发现超标;其分布特征由于受沿岸不同污染源的污染影响,重金属污染物难以形成一定规律的分布状态。同时该海域底质环境质量总指数已达到污染程度和很强的生态危害,其中主要污染元素是Hg,已达重污染,并形成极强的生态危害。  相似文献   

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

Drag Coefficient,Dynamic Roughness and Reference Wind Speed     

Paul?A.?HwangEmail author 《Journal of Oceanography》2005,61(3):399-413

Surface waves are the roughness element of the ocean surface. The parameterization of the drag coefficient of the ocean surface is simplified by referencing to wind speed at an elevation proportional to the characteristic wavelength. The dynamic roughness is analytically related to the drag coefficient. Under the assumption of fetch limited wave growth condition, various empirical functions of the dynamic roughness can be converted to equivalent expressions for comparison. For datasets covering a wide range of the dimensionless frequency (inverse wave age), it is important to account for the variable rate of wave development at different wave ages. As a result, the dependence of the Charnock parameter on wave age is nonmonotonic. Finally, the analysis presented here suggests that the significant wave steepness is a sensitive property of the ocean surface and a single variable normalization of the dynamic roughness using a wavelength or wave height parameter actually produces more robust functions than bi-variable normalizations using wave height and wave slope.  相似文献   

Long-Period Distribution of Wave Heights and Its Application     

Weng Keqin Associate Professor  Hydraulic  Hydro-Power Engineering Dept.  Tsinghua University  Beijing 《中国海洋工程》1995,(2)

This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.  相似文献   

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系     

黄树生 《海洋学研究》1994,12(4):1-8

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。  相似文献   

春季西北太平洋热带气旋与海温场和大气环流的关系     

李自强  张淑瑞 《海洋预报》1993,(1)

本文利用1951～1987年286个网格点太平洋月平均海温场及500hPa月平均位势高度场,分析了春季西北太平洋（不含南海）热带气旋与海温场和大气环流的关系。结果表明:前期太平洋海温场与春季热带气旋生成数有显著的相关,并以前一年夏季和前期冬季更为明显。影响春季热带气旋生成的太平洋海温场主要有两个关键区,一个位于赤道东太平洋,为负相关:一个位于北太平洋中部,为正相关。文中还从海温对大气环流影响的角度出发,分析了春季热带气旋活动特多年与特少年前期及同期500hPa大气环流的特征及两者之间的差异。最后利用逐步回归方法作了春季西北太平洋热带气旋长期趋势预报。  相似文献   

Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls     

Qiu Dahong  Zang Jun  Jia Ying Academician of the Chinese Academy of Sciences  Professor  the State Key Laboratory of Coastal  Offshore Engineering 《中国海洋工程》1996,(2)

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves  相似文献   

机载雷达高度计对海况及海面风速的测量研究     

潘家祎  袁业立  姜景山  郑全安 《海洋与湖沼》1996,27(6):598-604

运用我国自行研制的ＺＨＧ－１型Ｘ波段机载雷达高度计于１９９５年４月１３日－４月１８日在青岛附近海域进行的海上飞行实验数据，及导出的均方根波高、有效波高、均方根波陡算法模型，得到了上述海况参数值。  相似文献   

山东蓬莱西庄附近海域波浪与海岸侵蚀     

陈雪英  胡泽建 《海洋科学进展》1992,(2)

本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据.  相似文献