An analysis of subaerial beach rotation and influences of environmental forcing adjacent to the proposed Swansea Bay Tidal Lagoon     

《Applied geography (Sevenoaks, England)》2015

Beach Profiles surveys and gale climate data were utilised to assess medium timescale beach rotation at four beaches located along the shores of a crenulated embayment within Swansea Bay, Southwest Wales. The proposed Tidal Lagoon is located within this Bay. Results identified a 7 year (1998–2005) record of cyclic summer/winter rotation and a 14 year (1999–2013) record of annual rotation within the subaerial zone on all four assessed beaches. In the absence of headlands to trap sediment it is asserted that the driving force for beach rotation is the presence of Swansea Dockland/Tawe dredged channel complex, Port Talbot Harbour and the Neath dredged channel which form surrogate headlands essentially creating four separate beach systems through restricting sediment by-pass. Seasonal averaged wind and wave variables showed differing correlation with volume changes and cross-correlation results showed that volume variation lagged behind forcing variables by up to six months (i.e. the resolution of the data). This was confirmed by the annually averaged results which showed only subtle correlation. Here volume change in most cases lagged forcing variables by less than one year. Based on correlations, wind direction variability follows closely with volume changes but wind speed, wave period and height are generally opposite. Initial results suggest that the proposed Swansea Bay Tidal Lagoon, located between sediment cells and surrogate headlands, would have little negative effect on subaerial coastal processes. These datasets will be used as a benchmark for monitoring prior to, during and post construction, with results being used to update and inform subsequent strategies.  相似文献   

Beach profile evolution as an inverse problem     

Harshinie Karunarathna  Dominic E. Reeve  Mark Spivack   《Continental Shelf Research》2009,29(18):2234-2239

Beach evolution models are normally applied in a prognostic fashion, with parameters and boundary conditions estimated from previous experience or other forecasts. Here, we use observations of beach profiles to solve a beach profile evolution equation in an inverse manner to determine model parameters and source function. The data used to demonstrate the method are from Christchurch Bay in Dorset, UK. It was found that there is a significant contribution from diffusive processes to the morphodynamic evolution of the beach profiles and that the development and disappearance of near-shore coastal features such as upper beach berms and inter- and sub-tidal bars are well captured by the source function in the governing equation.  相似文献   

Storm surges and coastal impacts at Mar del Plata,Argentina     

Mónica M.E. Fiore  Enrique E. D’Onofrio  Jorge L. Pousa  Enrique J. Schnack  Germán R. Bértola 《Continental Shelf Research》2009

Positive storm surges (PSS) lasting for several days can raise the water level producing significant differences between the observed level and the astronomical tide. These storm events can be more severe if they coincide with a high tide or if they bracket several tidal cycles, particularly in the case of the highest astronomical tide. Besides, the abnormal sea-level elevation near the coast can cause the highest waves generated to attack the upper beach. This combination of factors can produce severe erosion, threatening sectors located along the coastline. These effects would be more serious if the storm surge height and duration increase as a result of a climatic change. The Mar del Plata (Argentina) coastline and adjacent areas are exposed to such effects. A statistical characterization of PSS based on their intensity, duration and frequency, including a surge event classification, was performed utilizing tide-gauge records over the period 1956–2005. A storm erosion potential index (SEPI) was calculated from observed levels based on hourly water level measurements. The index was related to beach profile responses to storm events. Also, a return period for extreme SEPI values was calculated. Results show an increase in the average number of positive storm surge events per decade. Considering all the events, the last decade (1996–2005) exhibits an average 7% increase compared to each one of the previous decades. A similar behavior was found for the decadal average of the heights of maximum annual positive storm surges. In this case the average height of the last two decades exceeds that of the previous decades by approximately 8 cm. The decadal average of maximum annual duration of these meteorological events shows an increase of 2 h in the last three decades. A possible explanation of the changes in frequency, height and duration of positive storm surges at Mar del Plata would seem to lie in the relative mean sea-level rise.  相似文献   

Beach recovery after 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami from Phang-nga, Thailand     

Montri Choowong  Sumet Phantuwongraj  Thasinee Charoentitirat  Vichai Chutakositkanon  Sombat Yumuang  Punya Charusiri 《Geomorphology》2009,104(3-4):134-142

The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami devastated the coastal areas along the Andaman western coast of Thailand and left unique physical evidence of its impact, including the erosional landforms of the pre-tsunami topography. Here we show the results from monitoring the natural recovery of beach areas at Khuk Khak and Bang Niang tidal channels of Khao Lak area, Phang-nga, Thailand. A series of satellite images before and after the tsunami event was employed for calculating the beach area and locating the position of the changed shoreline. Field surveys to follow-up the development of the post-tsunami beach area were conducted from 2005 to 2007 and the yearly beach profile was measured in 2006. As a result, the scoured beach areas where the tidal channel inlets were located underwent continuous recovery. The return of post-tsunami sediments within the beach zone was either achieved by normal wind and wave processes or during the storm surges in the rainy season. Post-2004 beach sediments were derived mainly from near offshore sources. The present situation of the beach zone has almost completed reversion back to the equilibrium stage and this has occurred within 2 years after the tsunami event. We suggest these results provide a better understanding of the geomorphological process involved in beach recovery after severe erosion such as by tsunami events.  相似文献   

A model of inter-annual variability in beach levels     

Simon P. Neill  Alan J. Elliott  Mohammad R. Hashemi 《Continental Shelf Research》2008

Beach profile data, collected twice per year at 19 stations over a 25 km length of coastline in Tremadoc Bay, have been analysed to quantify the inter-annual variability in beach levels over a 7 year period and the results compared against the output of a numerical model. Using hourly wind data as forcing, the morphological development of northern Tremadoc Bay was simulated by wave, tidal, longshore transport, total transport and bed level change models. The modelling methodology was efficient and innovative, allowing realistic simulations of long duration with a time step of 1 h, hence capturing the high frequency nature of wind events. The model was run for each of the 7 autumn/winter periods (generally November–April) and the modelled net change in beach levels compared with the data from all 19 stations. The model results had reasonable agreement with the beach profile surveys. However, the observed magnitude of bed level change in the bay lagged the model output by 1 year, indicating that sediment processes acting over a larger area are important in a relatively localised study of inter-annual variability.  相似文献   

福建深沪湾潮间带沉积异质体及其成因初探   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

俞鸣同  黄向华 《海洋科学》2003,27(12):42-44

深沪湾潮间带并列着两种性质迥异的沉积异质体——沉溺古树林和牡蛎礁。其号观性质、形成年代和沉积特征都有显著差异。古树林主要树种有：油杉(Keteleeria)、桑树(Mouas)和皂荚(Gleditisia)等，属于亚热带常绿落叶阔叶混交林，^14C测量表明其生长于7000aBP前后；牡蛎礁造礁生物主要属种有：近江重蛎(Crassostrea riwlaris)，长重蛎(Crassostrea gigas Tunbers)等。属于河口贝类，^14C测量表明其生长于20000aBP左右。地貌调查和钻孔沉积物分析显示：牡蛎礁是晚更新世古河口的产物，古树林是全新世河道古土壤生长林，两者被埋藏后近代重现海滩。  相似文献   

Community structure of zooplankton in the Lembeh Strait, Bitung, and Wori Beach, Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia     

THOHA Hikmah  FITRIYA Nurul  SIANTURI Oksto Ridho  WANG Yanguo 《海洋学报(英文版)》2018,37(12):28-34

The community structure of zooplankton has been conducted in the Lembeh Strait in Bitung and Wori Beach in Manado, North Sulawesi in October 2015. Sampling of this research was conducted in 22 sampling sites along the strait. Zooplankton samples were collected from 22 stations, by NORPAC 300 μm net that was vertically hauled from maximum 10 m depth up to the surface water. The samples were poured into the bottle with formalin of 4%as preservative. The results showed that there were 43 taxa of zooplankton. The abundance of zooplankton was between 21.216–4 193.776 ind./m~3. The dominant taxa were copepod, especially Calanoida. The composition of zooplankton was relatively similar in all stations. We showed the abundance, dominance, composition and distribution of zooplankton at this research. More extensive studies concerning zooplankton is required to understand zooplankton biodiversity as a whole especially on the geographical and spatial distribution to describe population and community dynamic in the Lembeh Strait and Wori Beach.  相似文献   

Separation of shoreline change signal from random noise     

Todd L. Walton Jr 《Ocean Engineering》2000,27(1):1811

Investigation of shoreline change signals in the presence of possible non-stationarity is attempted via Karhunen–Loeve filtering to separate the actual shoreline signal change from that of random noise. Interpretation is made of the signal and noise normalized covariance and spectra to help in delineating natural change versus man-made change patterns for a section of shoreline where a navigation channel existed over a portion of the shoreline history.  相似文献   

Depth of activation on a mixed sediment beach   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Sherestha Saini  Nancy L. Jackson  Karl F. Nordstrom 《Coastal Engineering》2009

The relationship between wave height and depth of sediment activation is evaluated on an estuarine beach to determine whether activation depth is less in pebbles than sand. Rods with washers were used to monitor three excavated beach plots filled with (1) pebbles with mean grain size of 11.5 mm; (2) sand and granules; and (3) sand, granules and pebbles. Plots were monitored for 26 events over 27 days. Significant wave heights ranged from 0.18 to 0.40 m and activation depths from 0.02 to 0.12 m. Activation depths in the pebble plot were less than the other two plots when waves reworked sediment not activated during previous tidal cycles. Proportionality coefficients for activation depth to wave height, when net change was < 0.02 m, were 0.24 in the pebble plot and 0.30–0.31 in the other plots when experimental fill sediments remained and 0.22 to 0.23 in all three plots over the entire monitoring period, which included activation of newly deposited native sediment. Results suggest that for similar wave heights, activation depths in pebbles is lower than in sand, granules and pebbles or sand and granules, but once waves have reworked the sediment there is little difference in activation depths.  相似文献   

Toward institutions for community-based management of inshore marine resources in the Western Indian Ocean     

Joshua E. Cinner  Andrew Wamukota  Herilala Randriamahazo  Ando Rabearisoa 《Marine Policy》2009

This paper examines the frameworks being developed to co-manage coral reefs in Kenya and Madagascar. The historical and social context, flexibility of rule-making, monitoring and enforcement, and how community-based organizations are nested within other organizations is described. A comparison of the degree to which these two frameworks contain 10 key design principles thought to be important for successful commons institutions is presented. Finally, recommendations are made for improving co-management in these countries. A principal finding is that both co-management frameworks were developed for other systems (terrestrial and lakes), which creates misfits for how marine systems can be managed.  相似文献