Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

First results from the North Iceland experiment     

C. Riedel  A. Tryggvason  B. Brandsdottír  T. Dahm  R. Stéfansson  M. Hensch  R. Böðvarsson  K. S. Vogfjord  S. Jakobsdottír  T. Eken  R. Herber  J. Holmjarn  M. Schnese  M. Thölen  B. Hofmann  B. Sigurdsson  S. Winter 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2006,27(4):267-281

Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system.  相似文献   

渤海湾沿岸泥炭沼泽形成机制与时空分布   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

李汉鼎  王升忠 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1995,15(2):11-16

渤海湾沿岸的海陆过渡带，优越的水文地理环境有利于泥炭沼泽的形成与发育。海洋海退导致的海岸线变迁，是控制泥炭沼泽发育时间和空间分布的主导因素。间冰期和冰后期的海面上升期间，自海向陆发育了海侵基底泥炭；中全新世高海面期，在山前扇缘洼地和沟谷有泥炭沼泽发育；晚全新世海面下降期，泥炭沼泽主要发育在沿岸的海湾、泻湖、三角洲汊河间洼地及平原上的河滩、阶地、古河道等地。  相似文献   

沿海城市海水入侵问题研究   总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5  

丁玲  李碧英  张树深 《海洋技术学报》2003,22(2):79-83

近年来，沿海城市的海水入侵问题逐渐成为人们关心的焦点之一。文章通过资料搜集与整理，对沿海城市的海水入侵状况作了全面描述与分析。系统地总结了海水入侵的若干特点及海水入侵的成因分析与规律，较为详细的分析了海水入侵的基本事实、基本矛盾和各发展阶段的发展原因，在此基础上总结了海水入侵的基本理论。为进一步的研究打下良好的基础。  相似文献   

中国海岸带高分辨率遥感系统技术基础研究   总被引：4，自引：4，他引：4  

杨晓梅  杜云艳  陈秀法 《海洋学报》2003,25(6):61-68

基于海岸带作为经济高度发展的地带,特别是我国常规海岸带调查已不能满足海岸带经济发展和现代化管理的基本要求,着重从大量高分辨率遥感数据的组织和管理、快速准确的空间定位系统、特征级的影像融合以及海岸带特征提取等算法,共同构成海岸带高分辨率遥感数据处理及分析方法作为系统的技术基础,并通过与此相匹配的海岸带遥感分类系统及其综合制图等方法研究,支撑起海岸带遥感资源调查先进的技术构架,为实现我国海岸带现代化管理奠定理论和技术基础.  相似文献   

Morphology and tectonics of the Romanche Transform and its environs     

R. C. Searle  M. V. Thomas  E. J. W. Jones 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1994,16(6):427-453

  相似文献   

渤海的地质演化与断裂活动   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

李延成 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1993,13(2):25-34

本文将渤海的地质演化分为:前中生代、中生代和新生代三大时期,并论述各个时期的构造特征和地层分布。渤海的断裂系统主要有北北东—北东、近东西和北西向三组,每组断裂既有其各自的发生、发展规率,同时彼此之间又有一定的关联。  相似文献   

A modelling study of ecosystem dynamics and nutrient cycling in the Humber plume, UK     

J. I. Allen   《Journal of Sea Research》1997,38(3-4)

The European Regional Seas Ecosystem Model (ERSEM) has been coupled with a two-dimensional depth-averaged transport model of the Humber plume region and run to simulate 1988–1989. Simulations of the spatial and temporal variations in chlorophyll-a, nitrate, phosphate and suspended particulate matter distributions in winter, spring and summer show how the development of the spring bloom and subsequent maintenance of primary production is controlled by the physicochemical environment of the plume zone. Results are also shown for two stations, one characterised by the high nutrient and suspended matter concentrations of the plume and the other by the relatively low nutrient and sediment concentrations of the offshore waters. The modelled net primary production at the plume site was 105 g C m⁻² a⁻¹ and 127 g C m⁻² a⁻¹ offshore. Primary production was controlled by light limitation between October and March and by the availability of nutrients during the rest of the year. The phytoplankton nutrient demand is met by in-situ recycling processes during the summer. The likely effect of increasing and decreasing anthropogenic riverine inputs of nitrate and phosphate upon ecosystem function was also investigated. Modelling experiments indicate that increasing the nitrogen to silicate ratio in freshwater inputs increased the production of non-siliceous phytoplankton in the plume. The results of this model have been used to calculate the annual and quarterly mass balances describing the usage of inorganic nitrogen, phosphate and silicate within the plume zone for the period of the NERC North Sea survey (September 1988 to October 1989). The modelled Humber plume retains 3.9% of the freshwater dissolved inorganic nitrogen, 2.2% of the freshwater phosphate and 1.3% of the freshwater silicate input over the simulated seasonal cycle. The remainder is transported into the southern North Sea in either dissolved or particulate form. The reliability of these results is discussed.  相似文献   

A Nonlinear Model of Surf Beat     

Nicholas Dodd 《中国海洋工程》1995,(2)

A nonlinear short-wave-averaged (surf beat) model is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called weighted-averaged flux (WAF) method (eg Watson et al., 1992), with time-operator splitting used for the treatment of some of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modelling breaking long waves. The short-wave (or primary-wave) energy equation is solved using a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. Results of validation indicate that the model performs satisfactorily in most respects.  相似文献   

Spatial and temporal variability of crustal magnetization of a slowly spreading ridge: Mid-Atlantic Ridge (20°–24° N)     

R. A. Pockalny  A. Smith  P. Gente 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1995,17(3):301-320

The results of the two- and three-dimensional magnetic inversions performed on data located between 20°–24° N on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge indicate the crustal magnetization has decayed exponentially for the last 10 Ma, and that this decay has been fairly symmetric about the ridge axis. After removal of the mean temporal decay, the residual field is characterized by more positive magnetizations at the second-order discontinuities, regardless of initial magnetization direction. A model that involves the preferential emplacement of serpentinized lithologies near the discontinuities is proposed to explain this correlation. The temporal detrending method also indicates that several ridge-parallel depressions located on the flanks of the ridge axis are regions of more positive magnetizations. These bathymetric depressions may mark the locations of detachment faulting that occurred during amagmatic periods of extension. The general symmetry of the crustal magnetization about the ridge axis does not support the occurrence of continuous detachment faulting proposed to correspond to the inner and outer corners of ridge axis discontinuities.  相似文献