波浪作用下岸坡和海底平衡条件的研究     

沈剑平  范德江 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1993,(4)

提出波浪作用下岸坡和海底动态和静态平衡条件的数学模型。在已建立的推移质泥沙体积输沙率基本关系式的基础上,根据连续方程,计算出底坡、泥沙、波浪三要素在动态和静态平衡情况下的关系式,得出反映这种关系的底坡平衡函数曲线图。用实际资料对这一函数曲线进行了验证,并对实际资料相对模型的某些差异作出解释。  相似文献   

考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

蒋德才  张琦 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1988,(3)

本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。  相似文献   

渤、黄、东海底摩擦系数的研究     

孙丽艳  吕咸青 《海洋湖沼通报》2007,(2):7-12

本文将伴随法用于渤、黄、东海M2分潮的数值模拟,利用Topex／Poseidon高度计资料进行同化,优化海底摩擦系数。文中对底摩擦系数取常数时进行了优化,同时还对底摩擦系数的一种新的处理方法进行了研究,即在计算海区选取一些点给定底摩擦系数,海区中任意一点的底摩擦系数由这些点的底摩擦系数线性播值得到,优化后得到空间分布的底摩擦系数。针对两种不同的线性底摩擦假设分别进行了一系列的实际实验,结果表明由空间分布的底摩擦系数得到的模拟值比底摩擦系数取常数得到的模拟值更接近观测值,能有效地提高数值模拟的精度。  相似文献   

Depth- and current-induced effects on wave propagation into the Altamaha River Estuary, Georgia     

KiRyong Kang  Daniela Di Iorio   《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,66(3-4):395-408

A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient.  相似文献   

一种推广的缓坡方程   总被引：4，自引：3，他引：4  

潘军宁  洪广文等 《海洋工程》2001,19(1):24-31

从流体力学基本方程出发，假定水流的涡量和垂向流速分量小量，推导出考虑非均匀水流的推广的缓坡方程，该方程中包含了△h^2h项和（△hh)^2项。在方程中引入底摩擦项、风能输入项和非线性项，其中风能输入项的推导考虑了风浪与涌浪的区别，风流情况依据青岛海洋大学的风浪成长经验关系，涌浪情况依据Snyder等人的观测结果。经过上述推广后，得到综合考虑折射、绕射、反射、非均匀水流、底摩擦损耗、风能输入及波浪非线性的推广的缓坡方程。  相似文献   

水动力作用下管道稳定性的试验研究   总被引：2，自引：2，他引：2  

高福平  顾小芸等 《海洋工程》2001,19(2):56-60

利用振荡流水槽在以下两种约束条件下，研究波浪作用下直接铺设于砂质海底的管道失稳临界条件：1）管道两端自由；2）管道可水平、垂直自由运动，但流动受到限制。试验结果表明，管重无量纳数G与管道失稳的临界Fr数之间大致呈线性关系，而当G超过一定数值时，管道是侧向稳定的。管道的约束条件、砂床特性和加载速度对管道稳定性均有影响。  相似文献   

A new efficient 3D non-hydrostatic free-surface flow model for simulating water wave motions     

Doo Yong Choi  Chin H. Wu   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(5-6):587-609

A new three-dimensional, non-hydrostatic free surface flow model is presented. For simulating water wave motions over uneven bottoms, the model employs an explicit project method on a Cartesian the staggered gird system to solve the complete three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations. A bi-conjugated gradient method with a pre-conditioning procedure is used to solve the resulting matrix system. The model is capable of resolving non-hydrostatic pressure by incorporating the integral method of the top-layer pressure treatment, and predicting wave propagation and interaction over irregular bottom by including a partial bottom-cell treatment. Four examples of surface wave propagation are used to demonstrate the capability of the model. Using a small of vertical layers (e.g. 2–3 layers), it is shown that the model could effectively and accurately resolve wave shoaling, non-linearity, dispersion, fission, refraction, and diffraction phenomena.  相似文献   

规则波在缓坡上变形与破碎数值分析     

李玉成  肖辉 《海洋工程》2007,25(1):27-34

通过在二维数值水槽内用边界元法直接求解Laplace方程,对规则波在缓坡上的变形及破碎进行了数值计算。分析了不同底坡及采用不同底摩阻系数时规则波的破碎特征,并对规则波破碎的极限坡度进行了研究。重点分析了规则波破碎时海底坡度、底摩阻系数及波形不对称性对破碎指标的影响。  相似文献   

氯化物型盐碱地池塘底泥中水溶性盐的分布特征     

张美昭  张兆琪  郑伟刚  董双林 《海洋湖沼通报》2001,(4):50-55

1997－1999年夏天，对位于黄河下游的氯化物型盐碱地池塘底泥中的水溶性盐进行了分析。结果表明：底泥中的含盐量，SO^2-4,Ca^2 ,Mg^2 含量是随着塘龄的增加而升高，而其余离子基本不随塘龄的增加而变化。各离子的垂直分布为“泥－土”混合层的含量较低，“水－泥”交界层含量较高。  相似文献   

Northward transport of pacific summer water along the Northwind Ridge in the Western Arctic Ocean     

Hiroshi Sumata  Koji Shimada 《Journal of Oceanography》2007,63(3):363-378

The recent sea-ice reduction in the Arctic Ocean is not spatially uniform, but is disproportionally large around the Northwind Ridge and Chukchi Plateau compared to elsewhere in the Canada Basin. In the Northwind Ridge region, Pacific Summer Water (PSW) delivered from the Bering Sea occupies the subsurface layer. The spatial distribution of warm PSW shows a quite similar pattern to the recent ice retreat, suggesting the influence of PSW on the sea-ice reduction. To understand the regionality of the recent ice retreat, we examine the dynamics and timing of the delivery of the PSW into this region. Here, we adopt a two-layer linearized potential vorticity equation to investigate the behavior of Rossby waves in the presence of a topographic discontinuity in the high latitude ocean. The analytical results show a quite different structure from those of mid-latitude basins due to the small value of β. Incident barotropic waves excited by the sea-ice motion with large annual variation can be scattered into both barotropic and baroclinic modes at the discontinuity. Since the scattered baroclinic Rossby wave with annual frequency cannot propagate freely, a strong baroclinic current near the topographic discontinuity is established. The seasonal variation of current near the topographic discontinuity would cause a kind of selective switching system for shelf water transport into the basin. In our simple analytical model, the enhanced northward transport of summer water and reduced northward transport of winter water are well demonstrated. The present study indicates that these basic dynamics imply that a strengthening of the surface forcing during winter in the Canada Basin could cause sea-ice reduction in the Western Arctic through the changes of underlying Pacific Summer Water.  相似文献