Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone     

Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor  Hohai University  Nanjing Engineer  The Investigation  Design Institute  Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province  Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.  相似文献   

亚热带沿海景观的旅游保护性开发及建设探讨--以福建沿海为例     

翁毅  周永章  张伟强  储德平 《台湾海峡》2006,25(2):285-294

依据地貌学和风景学的角度,福建沿海景观以闽江口和九龙江口为界可分为3个景观亚区,并具有多样性与复杂性、动态性与脆弱性和关联性与分异性等特征.本文运用景观生态的原理研究沿海景观的构成与格局,在沿海景观的分类和特征概括的基础上,探讨福建沿海景观旅游开发与建设的模式.通过维护沿海景观系统的稳定,优化沿海各景观亚区的分布格局,提高沿海景观的整体舒适性和挖掘文化景观的内涵等应对措施以实现福建沿海旅游的科学发展.  相似文献   

Marine Ecology - A Century of Changes     

Rupert  Riedl 《Marine Ecology》1980,1(1):3-46

Abstract. The major changes within the concepts of marine ecology are investigated, with the aim to design this new journal's scientific format. Four phases of marine sciences are distinguished: the phase of seafarers, of oceanographic expeditions, of marine stations, and of field research. The changes in the latter two are discussed in detail. The changes are described as occurring along three axes. First, as a movement towards the object; accomplished by fieldwork, scientific diving, remote controlled equipment, and by underwater experimentation. Second, the cooperation between several disciplines that led towards bridging gaps. And lastly, how the discovery of unifying principles in ecology (the development of an ecological theory) led the approach in marine ecology towards increasing complexity.  相似文献   

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

First results from the North Iceland experiment     

C. Riedel  A. Tryggvason  B. Brandsdottír  T. Dahm  R. Stéfansson  M. Hensch  R. Böðvarsson  K. S. Vogfjord  S. Jakobsdottír  T. Eken  R. Herber  J. Holmjarn  M. Schnese  M. Thölen  B. Hofmann  B. Sigurdsson  S. Winter 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2006,27(4):267-281

Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system.  相似文献   

安徽宣城地区中晚更新世风成堆积与环境变迁   总被引：25，自引：7，他引：25  

杨达源  房迎三 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1991,11(2):97-104

通过对宣城向阳中晚更新世沉积剖面的综合研究,认为该剖面与中国北方同时代的黄土—古土壤剖面相比较,虽然长江下游以南地区中晚更新世多个冰期中风成堆积的单层厚度与累积厚度,亦即风成物质的沉积通量与沉积速率均比北方黄土区要小,但它们所反映的气候与环境的变化具有明显的可比性。  相似文献   

渤海湾沿岸泥炭沼泽形成机制与时空分布   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

李汉鼎  王升忠 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1995,15(2):11-16

渤海湾沿岸的海陆过渡带，优越的水文地理环境有利于泥炭沼泽的形成与发育。海洋海退导致的海岸线变迁，是控制泥炭沼泽发育时间和空间分布的主导因素。间冰期和冰后期的海面上升期间，自海向陆发育了海侵基底泥炭；中全新世高海面期，在山前扇缘洼地和沟谷有泥炭沼泽发育；晚全新世海面下降期，泥炭沼泽主要发育在沿岸的海湾、泻湖、三角洲汊河间洼地及平原上的河滩、阶地、古河道等地。  相似文献   

天津海岸带经济开发的地质环境和环境工程地质问题   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3       下载免费PDF全文

杨锦贤 《海洋开发与管理》1994,11(3):36-40

本文揭示了天津海岸带影响经济开发的四个方面的地质环境特点；着重探讨三个方面的环境工程地质问题；并防止其形成和减轻地灾害的对策进行了研究。  相似文献   

A summary of the geology and oil habitat of the Eastern Flank Hydrocarbon Province of South Oman     

Aley Al-Marjeby  David Nash 《Marine and Petroleum Geology》1986,3(4)

The Eastern Flank Hydrocarbon Province borders the southeastern edge of the South Oman Salt Basin in the southern part of Oman. An intensive exploration programme by PDO over the past seven years has led to the discovery of almost 2 × 10⁹ m³ of oil with current production of some 15000 m³/d from six fields.In stark contrast to other oil habitats of the Arabian Peninsula, the main play involves rock units and geological events ranging in age from Late Precambrian to Quaternary Times, while trap development and charging are closely related to syn-tectonic salt dissolution.The principal reservoirs and seals are poorly consolidated, Palaeozoic clastics which drape, due to salt dissolution, over residual ‘cores’ principally composed of either Lower Palaeozoic sandstones (Haima Group), or Late Proterozoic carbonates (Huqf Group), or some combination of these. Oils have been geochemically correlated with algal source rocks of the Huqf Eastern Flank. Structures are considered to have been ‘charged’ from Late Mesozoic times onwards in conjunction with progressive subsurface salt removal and the onset of maturation of local source rocks. The effectiveness of ‘charging’ along the retreating salt edge is indicated by the small percentage of dry wells.Major oil zones are found in both anticlinal and truncation traps which are commonly developed around sandstone (Haima Group) cores. Oils show a wide range of characteristics but are typically heavy, early expulsion crudes, high sulphur with little associated gas. Bacterial transformation is not uncommon.Producing reservoirs mainly occur at relatively shallow depths (600–1200 m). Primary recovery factors of around 7% reflect the high density and viscosity of the Eastern Flank crudes and have initiated interest in Enhanced Oil Recovery (EOR) techniques. Two such pilot projects, involving steam and polymer flooding, are due to commence in 1984 and, if successful, will substantially increase the reserve base of these fields.  相似文献   

0421号热带风暴"海马"登陆前后环境场对其移向和强度影响的分析     

赵凯  濮梅娟 《台湾海峡》2005,24(3):370-376

0421号热带风暴“海马(Haima)”于2004年9月13日12:00在浙江省温州市沿海登陆,登陆后迅速减弱为热带低压,20:00在浙江境内消失.本研究采用物理量诊断分析法,探讨该热带风暴登陆前后涡度场、湿焓场变化对其移向和强度的影响.结果表明,该热带风暴登陆后,涡度(ξ)明显减弱.涡度局地变化(ξ/t)值分布显示,风暴移动方向的后方,涡度减弱的趋势比前方涡度增大的趋势更剧烈;风暴有向其外围(ξ/t)正值中心(即涡度增幅最大)移动的趋势.该热带风暴登陆前、后,湿焓都增大,但登陆后湿焓增大趋势已大大减弱;风暴有向湿焓局地变化(E/t)正值中心移动的趋势,即向能量增强最大的方向移动.  相似文献