The importance of extratropical and tropical cyclones on the short-term evolution of barrier islands along the northern Gulf of Mexico, USA     

Gregory W. Stone  Baozhu Liu  David A. Pepper  Ping Wang 《Marine Geology》2004,210(1-4):63-78

Data are presented indicating the complexity and highly variable response of beaches to cold front passages along the northern Gulf of Mexico, in addition to the impacts of tropical cyclones and winter storms. Within the past decade, an increase in the frequency of tropical storms and hurricanes impacting the northern Gulf has dramatically altered the long-term equilibrium of a large portion of this coast. A time series of net sediment flux for subaerial and nearshore environments has been established for a section of this coast in Florida, and to a lesser extent, Mississippi. The data incorporate the morphological signature of six tropical storms/hurricanes and more than 200 frontal passages.

Data indicate that (1) barrier islands can conserve mass during catastrophic hurricanes (e.g., Hurricane Opal, a strong category 4 hurricane near landfall); (2) less severe hurricanes and tropical storms can promote rapid dune aggradation and can contribute sediment to the entire barrier system; (3) cold fronts play a critical role in the poststorm adjustment of the barrier by deflating the subaerial portion of the overwash terrace and eroding its marginal lobe along the bayside beach through locally generated, high frequency, steep waves; and (4) barrier systems along the northern Gulf do not necessarily enter an immediate poststorm recovery phase, although nested in sediment-rich nearshore environments. While high wave energy conditions associated with cold fronts play an integral role in the evolution and maintenance of barriers along the northern Gulf, these events are more effective in reworking sediment after the occurrence of extreme events such as hurricanes. This relationship is even more apparent during the clustering of tropical cyclones.

It is anticipated that these findings will have important implications for the longer term evolution of barrier systems in midlatitude, microtidal settings where the clustering of storms is apparent, and winter storms are significant in intensity and frequency along the coast.  相似文献   

Channelled erosion through a marine dump site of dredge spoils at the mouth of the Puyallup River, Washington State, USA     

Neil C. Mitchell   《Marine Geology》2005,220(1-4):131-151

Channels are relatively common on river-mouth deltas, but the process by which they arise from river sediment discharge is unclear because they can potentially be explained either by negatively buoyant (hyperpycnal) flows produced directly from the river outflow or by flows generated by repeated failure and mobilisation of sediment rapidly deposited at the delta front. Channels eroded through a dump site of dredge spoils are described here from multibeam and older sonar data collected in Commencement Bay, at the mouth of the Puyallup River. Shallow channels on the seaward upper surface of the dump site, away from any flows that could have been produced by delta front failures, suggest that at least some hyperpycnal flows were produced directly from the positively buoyant river outflow up to 200 m from the edge of the river mouth platform. The form of channel bed erosion is revealed by the longitudinal shape of the main eroded channel compared with the adjacent dump site profile. It suggests that the channel evolved by its steep front retreating, rather than by simple vertical entrenchment or diffusive-like evolution of the profile, a geometry interpreted as evidence that repeated failure of the bed occurred in response to shear stress imposed by bottom-travelling flows. Model calculations based on shear strengths back-calculated from the geometry of channel wall failures suggest that, if the main channel were eroded solely by hyperpycnal flows, their generation was remarkably efficient in order to create flows vigorous enough to cause channel bed failure. Besides the sediment concentration and discharge characteristics that have been considered to dictate the ability of rivers to produce hyperpycnal flows, it is suggested that the timing of floods with respect to the tidal cycle should also be important because extreme low tides may be needed to ensure that coarse sediment is transferred vigorously to the edge of river mouth platforms.  相似文献   

Carbon balance in a salt marsh: Interactions of diffusive export, tidal deposition and rainfall-caused erosion   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Alice G. Chalmers  Richard G. Wiegert  Paul L. Wolf 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1985,21(6):757-771

Studies of the concentrations of particulate and dissolved organic carbon in the Duplin River, of the tidal exchange of POC and DOC in the marsh, of the standing stock and movement of Spartina alterniflora wrack in the Duplin, and of the removal of carbon from the surface of the marsh by rain were conducted at Sapelo Island, Georgia in order to test three hypotheses about export of carbon from the Duplin River watershed. We found that the gradients in POC and DOC concentrations are such that carbon is being transported down the Duplin River throughout the year, although in smaller quantities than previously believed. In contrast, almost all tidal exchanges within the marsh result in deposition of carbon. Most of this deposited carbon is subsequently eroded as a result of rain falling on the exposed marsh surface, and is washed back into the tidal creeks. This cycle of deposition and erosion is a possible mechanism keeping POC in the thin aerobic surface layer of the marsh, thus increasing its availability to detritivores and aerobic microbes. The standing stock of wrack is only a fraction of the S. alterniflora produced each year, and its export is a negligible term in the carbon balance equation.  相似文献   

Modeling erosion of sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic     

I. O. Leont'yev   《Coastal Engineering》2003,47(4):413-429

Morphodynamic modeling is employed in the present work to predict the long-term evolution (over the next 100 years) of typical sedimentary coasts in the western Russian Arctic. The studied objects are the coasts of Varandey (the Barents Sea), Baydaratskaya Bay and Harasavey (the Kara Sea). The model developed takes into account both the short-term processes (storm events) and long-term factors (for example, changes in sea level, inter-annual variations in gross sediment flux, lack or excess of sediment supply). Predicted and observed morphological changes in coastal profiles are shown to agree well for time scales ranging from weeks to decades. It is revealed that under given environmental conditions, the morphological evolution is strongly influenced by storm surges and associated wind-driven circulation. The water level gradient created by a surge generates a seaward flow at the bed. This outflow is shown to be an important destructive mechanism contributing to the erosion and recession of Arctic coasts. The rate of change is found to depend on both the exposure of the coast (relative to the direction of dominant winds) and its height above the sea. The open coast of Varandey is expected to retreat as much as 300–500 m over 100 years, while recession of the less exposed coasts of Baydaratskaya Bay would not exceed about 100 m/century. If long-term sediment losses are insignificant, the rate of erosion decays with time and the morphodynamic system may tend toward equilibrium. It is concluded that the expected relative sea-level rise (up to 1 m over the nearest 100 years) is non-crucial to the future coastal evolution if an erosion activity is already high enough.  相似文献   

现代黄河水下三角洲的地貌特征及演化     

任于灿 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1992,12(4):59-68

本文主要根据黄河水利委员会多年固定断面的测量资料和海洋地质研究所1988年两个航次调查结果,结合黄河水沙资料的分析,对水下三角洲的地貌特征、地貌演化及形成机制进行了论述,尤其对三角洲前缘的地貌演化趋势进行了较详细地阐述。  相似文献   

GIS支持下的长江口拦门沙泥沙冲淤定量计算   总被引：23，自引：4，他引：23  

吴华林  沈焕庭  胡辉  张莉莉  黄清辉 《海洋学报》2002,24(2):84-93

依据1842～1997年10幅不同年代的长江口海图资料,利用地理信息系统和数字化仪进行处理,建立不同时期的长江口水下数字高程模型,以此作为基础资料,实现了从横剖面、深泓线纵剖面、平面变化等不同角度对长江口拦门沙地区滩槽演变、岸线侵蚀、沙岛形成与变迁等进行研究.通过计算河槽容积,实现了对不同时段泥沙冲淤量的计算.结果表明,155a来拦门沙总的趋势是不断淤积,但不同时期淤积速度大不一样,个别时期甚至会发生一定程度的冲刷,这主要与动力条件的波动有关.1842～1997年,共淤积泥沙38.10亿t,平均每年淤积0.246亿t,约占长江来沙的5%,年均淤厚为1.1cm泥沙淤积部位主要在九段沙、横沙及横沙东滩、崇明东滩三处.发生冲刷的范围较小,仅占总面积的21.4%,主要在北槽,北港上段和南槽局部也有轻微的冲刷发生.  相似文献   

浙江省海岸侵蚀及防治概述     

谢钦春  李全兴 《海洋学研究》1992,10(3):46-52

浙江海岸侵蚀现象普遍存在。基岩海岸海蚀地貌发育,因其组成物质抗冲蚀能力强,岸线后退不明显;砂砾质海岸普遍发生侵蚀,尤其是无计划的人工挖沙,造成沙滩减小或消失;淤泥质海岸大多处于缓慢的淤涨状态,但由于自然条件的改变和人为作用的影响,某些岸段发生侵蚀,特别是受到台风暴潮的影响,岸线在短时间内出现大规模后退和滩面下蚀。侵蚀岸段主要见于杭州湾北岸澉浦至金丝娘桥岸段,杭州湾南岸临山至西三岸段及瓯江口北岸盘石至黄华岸段。淤泥质海岸后缘为滨海平原,组成物质为粘土质粉砂,抗冲蚀能力弱,为防止和减轻海岸侵蚀,沿岸建造各类海岸工程(海塘、丁坝、导堤等),提高防潮抗浪能力,在朝滩种植大米草,互花米草,消浪促淤明显。另外,在海岸开发活动中,应加强海岸侵蚀监测和综合管理。  相似文献   

塔里木盆地的构造演化   总被引：6，自引：0，他引：6  

杨克绳 《海洋地质前沿》2005,21(2):25-29

从地震大剖面显示，塔里木盆地发育为手风琴式的演化史。大体上形成有3层“断-坳”结构：①震旦系的“断”，古生界-三叠系的“坳”；②侏罗系的“断”，上白垩系的“坳”；③古近系的“断”，新近系的“坳”。断陷与坳陷分别由拉张与挤压应力场所致，这种应力场的变化是由相邻洋壳板块俯冲倾角由小到大的变化所引起的。由于地壳的多旋回运动，多次发生构造沉积演变，构成了多套生储盖组合，多领域、多种圈闭类型的油气藏，从震旦系-古生界-中生界-新生界，各断陷-坳陷结构的盆地都有可能形成油气藏的地质条件。  相似文献   

舟山外钓山海岸边坡泥沙动力与冲淤演变特征     

刘毅飞  夏小明  贾建军 《海洋通报》2007,26(6):53-60

通过对研究区海域的水文泥沙进行现场测验,对比1960-1962年海图、1995年和2001年水下地形图三期地形数据和分析浅地层探测数据等方法,分析了舟山外钓山岛西海岸边坡的水动力、悬浮泥沙及冲淤特征,探讨了海岸边坡发育演变的模式与机制。研究结果表明,在基岩岬角海岸与潮流深槽的边界控制及往复潮流的作用下,舟山外钓山岛西海岸边坡演变是一个"上淤下冲"的模式,即边坡变陡至边坡土体失稳并在不定期外力触发下滑塌堆积坡脚,然后上部重新淤积、下部滑坡体不断被侵蚀的循环过程。  相似文献   

辽东湾两侧砂质海岸侵蚀灾害与防治   总被引：9，自引：1，他引：9  

王玉广  李淑媛  苗丽娟 《海岸工程》2005,24(1):9-18

自20世纪60年代至90年代，由于多种原因，辽东湾东西两侧的初始沙质海岸侵蚀范围逐年扩大，侵蚀不断加剧，给当人民的生产和生活带来严重危害。由多年监测资料发现，侵蚀严重的熊岳岸线以2～4m／a的速率而大幅度后退，特别严重的地区最大后退达10km；辽西绥中某些岸段平均每年后退1～2m。20世纪90年代后期，由于一些海域管理措施的出台和相应的海岸防护工程的建设，海岸侵蚀逐渐减弱。通过现场调查和多年监测，分析了辽东湾东西两侧砂质海岸侵蚀的特点，认为海岸组成物质松散与海岸动力作用强烈是本区现代海岸侵蚀的基本条件，人为活动是关键因素，并提出了海岸侵蚀灾害的防治对策。  相似文献