A phase-resolving cross shore sediment transport model for beach profile evolution     

K. A. Rakha  R. Deigaard  I. Brker 《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)

A phase-resolving wave transformation module is combined with an intra-wave sediment transport module to calculate the on-/offshore sediment transport rates. The wave module is based on the Boussinesq equations extended into the surf zone. The vertical variation of the mean undertow and the intra-wave sediment concentrations are calculated. The net sediment transport rates are calculated, and the equation for conservation of sediment is solved to predict the beach profile evolution. The results of the present paper showed that the undertow contribution to the sediment transport rates is not dominating in all parts of the surf zone, even for eroding beaches, suggesting that other contributions should not be neglected. The present model also showed that for the same offshore wave energy the time series of the oscillatory motion is important and that the effect of wave groups cannot be disregarded.  相似文献   

Biokarst on Limestone Coasts, Morphogenesis and Sediment Production   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Jürgen  Schneider Horst  Torunski 《Marine Ecology》1983,4(1):45-63

Abstract. Biokarst-forms on limestone coasts are developed and arranged according to the bionomic zonation. The development of biokarst is the result of bioerosion, a synergistic effect of biological corrosion by endoliths and biological abrasion by grazers.
The cumulative effect of biogenic carbonate destruction leads to coastal destruction with a resulting highly profiled morphology on the limestone surfaces along the coastal profile. Under the influence of environmental factors a zonation of organisms develops which brings in turn a zonation of erosion rates (0.1-1.1 mm a^-1) resulting in biokarst-forms such as rock holes, rock pools and notches.
Products of bioerosion on limestone coasts are dissolved carbonate (by biological corrosion, 10–30% of the decomposed limestone) and particulate carbonate (by biological abrasion, 70–90% of the decomposed limestone) both of which contribute directly or indirectly to nearshore sedimentation. Size and shape of the bioerosional grains are determined by the boring pattern of the endoliths. The fine-grained sediments (maximum within the fraction 20–63 μm) contribute 3–25 % to the nearshore sediments.
Drastic changes in the biological zonation (like the mass invasion of the sea urchin Paracentrotus lividus in the Northern Adriatic since 1972 which eliminated nearly the entire macrophyte zone) due to unknown factors or pollution can have a profound effect on the bioerosion rates, altering them by as much as a factor of ten.  相似文献   

厦门潮间带表层沉积物天然放射系不平衡研究   总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5  

陈锦芳  刘广山  黄奕普 《台湾海峡》2005,24(3):274-282

用HPGeγ谱仪测定了厦门潮间带表层沉积物中的放射性核素,得到11种核素238U2、34Th2、26Ra2、22Rn2、10Pb2、28Ra2、28Ac2、28Th2、24Ra2、12Pb、40K的平均比活度分别为:40.2、82.7、32.4、28.9、94.2、69.3、57.1、71.6、64.0、71.4、692Bq/kg.结果表明潮间带沉积物中天然放射系不平衡,其中234Th相对于238U2、10Pb相对于226Ra过剩,222Rn相对于226Ra2、28Ac相对于228Ra2、24Ra相对于228Th亏损.  相似文献   

Dinoflagellate cysts in recent marine sediment from Guangxi, China   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

Haifeng Gu  Qi Fang  Jun Sun  Dongzhao Lan  Feng Cai  Zhiyong Gao 《海洋学报(英文版)》2003,22(3):407-419

Total of 33 species of dinoflagellate cysts were discovered from surface sediment in the searegion of Guangxi, among them 12 cyst types (Diplopsalopsis sp.1, D. sp. 2, D. sp. 3, Cochlodinium sp., Protoperidinium sp. 1, P. sp. 2, P. compressum , Scrippsiella sp. 1, S. sp. 2, Alexandrium sp. 1, A. sp. 2, A. sp. 3) were first reported from the South China Sea. And one cyst type (Cochlodinium sp.) was first reported in the world. Scrippsiella trochoidea is the dominant species in this area, accounting for 45% of all the cysts. There are 2 cysts of toxic dinoflagellate (Alexandrium tamarensis and Gymnodinium catenatum). But there is no relationship between cyst number and grain size distribution.  相似文献   

海底沉积物颗粒因素在不同频率下对声衰减的影响     

刘强  卢博  黄韶健  张福生 《热带海洋学报》2007,26(4):27-31

综合了多个沉积物声学测量的实验方案,提出适合研究柱状海底沉积物声衰减的实验方案。对黏土质粉砂的物理性质和声学性质作了相关处理,得到了在高、低两种测量频率下该类型沉积物的波形特性、频谱特性和与沉积颗粒因素有关的孔隙度对声衰减比的影响。进一步作了相应的回归分析,低频时方差为0.169—0.175,高频时方差为0.029—0.032,尝试总结出黏土质粉砂类型沉积物在两种频率下的声衰减趋势。  相似文献   

厦门海域水体中有机锡的存在形态与含量分布   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

赵冬梅  王新红  马建强  洪华生 《热带海洋学报》2007,26(4):76-81

利用固相萃取-气相色谱-火焰光度检测(SPE-GC-FPD)对厦门海域表、底层海水中的有机锡化合物进行了分析检测。其中表层海水中检出的有机锡化合物以二丁基锡(DBT)为主,底层海水中以三丁基锡(TBT)为主,且TBT的浓度显著高于表层水。表层海水中总有机锡浓度在129.1—4 826.8 ng(Sn).L-1之间,底层海水则分布在321.6—1 954.5ng(Sn).L-1之间。结果显示,厦门港内及同安湾附近海域水体中的有机锡浓度远高于九龙江口及厦门西南海域,这与厦门海域船舶活动和网箱养殖密切相关。通过对鼓浪屿站点表层海水中有机锡化合物15 h的连续监测,推测光照对水体中有机锡的降解影响显著。  相似文献   

A technique for conducting seismic refraction experiments on the ocean bed using bottom shots     

R. E. Kirk  K. Robertson  R. B. Whitmarsh  P. R. Miles 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1991,13(2):153-160

A technique has been devised for firing arrays of bottom shots on the ocean bed in depths upto 4000 m or more. Ten kilogram explosive charges are dropped from the surface while the shooting ship is navigated acoustically. They are detonated at preset times by an electronic timer which initiates an electrical detonator, detonating cord and cast PETN/TNT explosive. Ranges to ocean bottom seismographs, and the shot instants, can be calculated from the arrival-time differences of the direct and surface-reflected water waves. The accuracy, which is dependent on water-depth and range, was better than 22 m in range and 14 msec in shot instant for our experiments.  相似文献   

A Numerical Model for Natural Backfill of Pipeline Trenches Subjected to Unidirectional／Oscillatory Flows     

LIANGDong-fang CHENGLiang KervinYEOW 《中国海洋工程》2005,19(2):269-286

A numerical model for the self-burial of a pipeline trench is developed. Morphological evolutions of a pipeline trench under steady-current or oscillatory-flow conditions are simulated with/without a pipeline inside the trench. The oscillatory flow in this study represents the action of waves. The two-dimensional Reynolds-averaged continuity and Navier-Stokes equations with the standard k-e turbulence closure, as well as the sediment transport equations, are solved with the finite difference method in a eurvilirrear coordinate system. Both bed and suspended loads of sediment transport are included in the morphological model. Because of the lack of experimental data on the backfilling of pipeline trenches, the numericalmodel is firstly verified against three closely-relevant experiments available in literature. A detailed measurement of the channel migration phenomenon under steady currents is employed for the assessment of the integral performance of themodel. The two experimental results from U-tube tests are used to validate the model‘s ability in predicting oscillatory flows. Different time-marching schemes are employed for the morphological computation under unidirectional and oscillatory conditions. It is found that vortex motions within the trench play an important role in the trench development.  相似文献   

Patterns and controls of surface sediment distribution: west-central Florida inner shelf   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

Gregg R. Brooks  Larry J. Doyle  Richard A. Davis  Nancy T. DeWitt  Beau C. Suthard   《Marine Geology》2003,200(1-4):307-324

The west-central Florida inner shelf represents a transition between the quartz-dominated barrier-island system and the carbonate-dominated mid-outer shelf. Surface sediments exhibit a complex distribution pattern that can be attributed to multiple sediment sources and the ineffectiveness of physical processes for large-scale sediment redistribution. The west Florida shelf is the submerged extension of the Florida carbonate platform, consisting of a limestone karst surface veneered with a thin unconsolidated sediment cover. A total of 498 surface sediment samples were collected on the inner shelf and analyzed for texture and composition. Results show that sediment consists of a combination of fine quartz sand and coarse, biogenic carbonate sand and gravel, with variable but subordinate amounts of black, phosphorite-rich sand. The carbonate component consists primarily of molluskan fragments. The distribution is patchy and discontinuous with no discernible pattern, and the transition between sediment types is generally abrupt. Quartz-rich sediment dominates the inner 15 km north of the entrance into Tampa Bay, but south of the Bay is common only along the inner 3 km. Elsewhere, carbonate-rich sediment is the predominate sediment type, except where there is little sediment cover, in which cases black, phosphorite-rich sand dominates. Sediment sources are likely within, or around the periphery of the basin. Fine quartz sand is likely reworked from coastal units deposited during Pleistocene sea-level high stands. Carbonate sand and gravel is produced by marine organisms within the depositional basin. The black, phosphorite-rich sand likely originates from the bioerosion and reworking of the underlying strata that irregularly crop out within the study area. The distribution pattern contains elements of both storm- and tide-dominated siliciclastic shelves, but it is dictated primarily by the sediment source, similar to some carbonate systems. Other systems with similar sediment attributes include cool-water carbonate, sediment-starved, and mixed carbonate/siliciclastic systems. This study suggests a possible genetic link among the three systems.  相似文献   

南海表层沉积物中钙质超微化石分布特征   总被引：9，自引：0，他引：9  

王勇军  陈木宏  陆钧  向荣  张兰兰  张丽丽 《热带海洋学报》2007,26(5):26-34

为系统描述钙质超微化石在南海表层沉积中的分布特征,对遍布南海的175个样品进行了实验分析。发现不同地区钙质超微化石绝对丰度相差很大,从0—3.8×1010个.g-1不等。平面上将钙质超微化石丰度分为3个区。共鉴定出钙质超微化石21属28种,以Emiliania huxleyi、Florisphaera profunda和Gephyrocapsa oceanica为优势种,其中Florisphaera profunda占据绝对优势。南海钙质超微化石分布具有两个明显特征:一是14°N线南北两边钙质超微化石的分布存在差异;二是南海钙质超微化石丰度以南沙群岛和西沙群岛两片海域为最高,并有东北-西南走向的分布趋势。对影响钙质超微化石分布的水深、上升流与营养盐、陆源物质稀释作用、碳酸盐溶解作用等因素作了讨论,并根据钙质超微化石随水深的变化推测南海碳酸盐补偿深度应在4 000m左右。  相似文献