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961.
The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves. 相似文献
962.
963.
2000年夏季莱州湾生态环境要素的分布特征 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
论文依据 2 0 0 0年夏季 8月 2 9日至 9月 2日莱州湾的 1次综合性生态环境调查资料 ,给出了表、中、底 3层的平均温度、盐度、主要营养盐浓度及其比例和叶绿素 a浓度 ,分析了莱州湾的温盐结构、主要营养盐和叶绿素 a的分布特征。由于莱州湾的水深较浅 ,各要素的垂直分布都比较均匀。生态环境要素的水平分布表现为小清河口为高温、低盐、高营养盐和高叶绿素 a浓度区 ,小清河口东测的湾顶区域为高温、高盐、相对低的营养盐和叶绿素 a浓度区。此次观测到的盐度较 1997年以前有明显升高。莱州湾各层平均的 N/ P和 Si/ N分别为 16.73和 1.67,都比 1998~ 1999年渤海中部的值大 ,但 N/ P比 1992 ,1995和 1996年莱州湾的 N/ P明显偏低。叶绿素 a浓度与硅酸盐浓度之间有较好的相关关系 (α=0 .0 1) ,表、中、底 3层叶绿素 a浓度同硅酸盐浓度的线性相关系数分别为 :0 .5 4 ,0 .68和 0 .67 相似文献
964.
965.
埕岛油田海上石油平台基础冲刷研究 总被引:6,自引:1,他引:6
海洋石油平台的建立会改变平台周围的水动力条件,其中平台的基础及与之连接的海底管缆(输油管道、注水管道、海底电缆等)附近产生冲刷现象,对平台和海底管缆的安全造成威胁。根据对研究区典型平台的4次实洲水深并结合以往资料,分析了埕岛油田海上石油平台基础冲刷的过程及其规律。 相似文献
966.
967.
近岸海浪模式在中国东海台风浪模拟中的应用--数值模拟及物理过程研究 总被引:6,自引:2,他引:6
较为详细地介绍了基于能量平衡方程的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN(Simulation Waves Nearshore)及其包含的物理过程(风生浪、底摩擦、白浪耗散、深度诱导波破碎、非线性波-波相作用等),并利用该模式对影响杭州湾-长江口沿岸海域的一次台风浪过程进行了模拟研究:模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型嵌入对应台风特征等压线,并对相应时段的NCAR/NCEPT资料、单站资料进行同化后提供;利用自嵌套的方式提供波谱边界条件;模式模拟的结果与实际海浪观测资料相符较好,在此基础上,研究了底摩擦、深度诱导波破碎、三波相互作用等物理过程联合对近岸台风浪的影响,初步认识了它们在近岸台风浪生成、传播过程中的重要作用。 相似文献
968.
State Estimation of the North Pacific Ocean by a Four-Dimensional Variational Data Assimilation Experiment 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
Toshiyuki Awaji Shuhei Masuda Yoichi Ishikawa Nozomi Sugiura Takahiro Toyoda Tomohiro Nakamura 《Journal of Oceanography》2003,59(6):931-943
A four-dimensional variational data assimilation system has been applied to an experiment to describe the dynamic state of
the North Pacific Ocean. A synthesis of available observational records and a sophisticated ocean general circulation model
produces a dynamically consistent dataset, which, in contrast to the nudging approach, provides realistic features of the
seasonally-varying ocean circulation with no artificial sources/sinks for temperature and salinity fields. This new dataset
enables us to estimate heat and water mass transports in addition to the qualification of water mass formation and movement
processes. A sensitivity experiment on our assimilation system reveals that the origin of the North Pacific Intermediate Water
can be traced back to the Sea of Okhotsk and the Bering Sea in the subarctic region and to the subtropical Kuroshio region
further south. These results demonstrate that our data assimilation system is a very powerful tool for the identification
and characterization of ocean variabilities and for our understanding of the dynamic state of ocean circulation.
This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
969.
970.
Fumio Horiguchi Kisaburo Nakata Naganori Ito Ken Okawa 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,70(4):589
A risk assessment of Tributyltin (TBT) in Tokyo Bay was conducted using the Margin of Exposure (MOE) method at the species level using the Japanese short-neck clam, Ruditapes philippinarum. The assessment endpoint was defined to protect R. philippinarum in Tokyo Bay from TBT (growth effects). A No Observed Effect Concentration (NOEC) for this species with respect to growth reduction induced by TBT was estimated from experimental results published in the scientific literature. Sources of TBT in this study were assumed to be commercial vessels in harbors and navigation routes. Concentrations of TBT in Tokyo Bay were estimated using a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model, an ecosystem model and a chemical fate model. MOEs for this species were estimated for the years 1990, 2000, and 2007. Estimated MOEs for R. philippinarum for 1990, 2000, and 2007 were approximately 1–3, 10, and 100, respectively, indicating a declining temporal trend in the probability of adverse growth effects.A simplified software package called RAMTB was developed by incorporating the chemical fate model and the databases of seasonal flow fields and distributions of organic substances (phytoplankton and detritus) in Tokyo Bay, simulated by the hydrodynamic and ecological model, respectively. 相似文献