渤、黄海假潮的气象学成因     

龙宝森  陈则实 《海洋与湖沼》2001,32(5):569-574

对渤、黄海14个主要海湾的原始验潮记录进行了分析，从中筛选出水位变化幅度大于或等于50cm的54个假潮个例，着重分析了伴随假潮过程的天气形势，把可能引发假潮的天气形势归纳为4种基本类型。分析结果显示：绝大多数（92％）引发假潮的天气个例都与锋面活动有关；所有个例中低层大气基本上都是弱静力稳定，且都具有较强的垂直风速切变。根据观测事实和稳定度理论分析认为，低层大气的弱静力稳定层结构以及由垂直风速切变引起的剪切不稳定性，是假潮气象学成因的一种必要条件和物理机制。  相似文献   

关于波浪Boussinesq方程的研究   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

李孟国  王正林  蒋德才 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2002,32(3):345-354

对有关波浪 Boussinesq方程的研究成果进行了系统的归纳总结和评述 ,以期对本学科的发展起到一定的引导和促进作用  相似文献   

南海罗斯贝变形半径的地理及季节变化   总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3  

甘子钧  蔡树群 《热带海洋学报》2001,20(1):1-9

根据南海 1°× 1°网格的标准层季节平均温、盐度资料 ,在未引入Boussinesq近似条件下 ,采用改进的Thompson Haskell算法求解线性化斜压海洋水平大尺度波的垂直结构方程 (重力内波方程 ) ,从而得到了南海各网格点的第一斜压重力波相速度和相应的罗斯贝变形半径 ,并探讨其地理分布和季节变化特征 ,以期有助于南海环流和中尺度涡旋以及有关海洋侧边界效应的研究。  相似文献   

考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型   总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3  

李瑞杰 《海洋学报》2001,23(1):102-108

提出了逼近Kirby和Dalrymple的非线性弥散关系的显式非线性弥散关系的表达式,该显式表达式与他们的非线性弥散关系的精度几乎完全相同.采用显式非线性弥散关系,结合含弱非线性效应的缓坡方程,得到考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型,并对该数学模型进行了数值验证.结果表明,考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型更为精确.  相似文献   

Modeling of the eddy viscosity by breaking waves     

ZHANG Shuwen  YUAN Yeli  ZHENG Quan''an 《海洋学报(英文版)》2007,26(6):116-123

Breaking wave induced nearsurface turbulence has important consequences for many physical and biochemical processes including water column and nutrients mixing,heat and gases exchange across air-sea interface.The energy loss from wave breaking and the bubble plume penetration depth are estimated.As a consequence,the vertical distribution of the turbulent kinetic energy(TKE),the TKE dissipation rate and the eddy viscosity induced by wave breaking are also provided.It is indicated that model results are found to be consistent with the observational evidence that most TKE generated by wave breaking is lost within a depth of a few meters near the sea surface.High turbulence level with intensities of eddy viscosity induced by breaking is nearly four orders larger than υwl(=κuwz),the value predicted for the wall layer scaling close to the surface,where uw is the friction velocity in water,κ with 0.4 is the von Kármán constant,and z is the water depth,and the strength of the eddy viscosity depends both on wind speed and sea state,and decays rapidly through the depth.This leads to the conclusion that the breaking wave induced vertical mixing is mainly limited to the near surface layer,well above the classical values expected from the similarity theory.Deeper down,however,the effects of wave breaking on the vertical mixing become less important.  相似文献   

A General Linear Wave Theory for Water Waves Propagating over Uneven Porous Bottoms   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

锁要红  黄虎 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(1):163-171

Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green‘s scond identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations curreutly in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.  相似文献   

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls     

冯卫兵潘丽红  洪广文 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):299-306

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.  相似文献   

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion     

郑桂珍  徐德伦 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(3):357-370

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.  相似文献   

满足给定数字特征和谱的随机信号的产生     

刘新安  黄培基 《海洋科学进展》1994,(2)

本文给出了满足给定数字特征和谱的随机序列的产生方法，即用无记忆非线性变换实现非正态随机信号的模拟．该法与Ｇｕｊａｒ法相比较，放宽了变量概率分布的限制，只要求变量矩的存在。同时考虑无记忆非线性变换对谱的影响，用异于Ｌｉｕ的方法在频域上求解输入正态分布随机序列的谱．  相似文献   

香港附近海区台风波浪的波群统计分析     

黎满球 《热带海洋学报》1994,(4)

根据香港附近海区１９８５，１９８６年两次台风大浪的实测资料，以有效波高为相应水平，对波群作统计分析，得出可供海洋工程参考的波群连长、波群重复长度、波群出现频率以及波群中最大波高与有效波高的关系等。并将统计值与理论值作比较，结果表明：统计值大于“连”的理论值，而与包线理论中采用合田修正公式的汁算值相近。  相似文献