Effect of wave-directionality on second-order loads induced by the set-down     

B. Molin  V. Fauveau 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(2):66-72

At first-order of approximation a sea-state may be considered as an infinite sum of Airy components with angular frequencies ω_i and wave-number vectors k_i. A second-order analysis shows the co-existence of long waves appearing at the difference frequencies ω_i—ω_j with wave-number vectors k_i—k_j. In shallow water they become appreciable in amplitudes and may induce slow-drift motion of moored structures.For small values of ω_i—ω_j,k_i—k_j may take all kinds of directions for an angular-spread wave system. Then it may be questioned how the in-line and transverse second-order accelerations compare to those obtained for a mono-directional wave-system.This analysis is carried out here by relating the spectra of the second-order horizontal accelerations to the directional wave-spectrum. Numerical applications are first performed for deep water. They show that at low frequencies, even for very narrowly spread wave systems, the transverse component is larger than the in-line component. In shallow water both components are dratically reduced as compared to the mono-directional case. As a consequence one may question the validity of model-testings or numerical models which take no account of the directionality of the wave-system.  相似文献   

Scattering of Semidiurnal Internal Kelvin Wave at Step Bottom Topography     

Yuji?KawamuraEmail author  Yujiro?Kitade  Masaji?Matsuyama 《Journal of Oceanography》2005,61(1):59-68

A three-dimensional, multi-level model was used to study the energy dissipation of semidiurnal internal Kelvin waves due to their interaction with bottom topography. A simplified topography consisting of a channel with an additional shallow bay was used to clarify the wave’s scattering process. When the first mode semidiurnal internal wave given at an open boundary arrives at the bay mouth, higher-mode internal waves are generated at a step bottom of the bay mouth. As a result, the energy of the first mode internal Kelvin wave is effectively decayed. The decay rate of the internal Kelvin wave depends on both the width and length of the additional bay. The maximum decay rate was found when a resonance condition occurs the bay, that is, the bay length is equal to a quarter of wave length of the first mode internal wave on the shallow region. The decay rate in the wide bay cases is higher than that in a narrow case, due to a contribution from the scattering due to the Poincare wave that emanates from the corners of the bay head. The decay rate with the additional bay is 1.1–1.8 times that of the case without the additional bay. The decay rate due to the scattering process is found to be of the same order as that of the internal and bottom friction.  相似文献   

On the recovery of surface wave by pressure transfer function     

Cheng-Han Tsai  Min-Chih Huang  Fu-Ji Young  Yin-Chern Lin  Hsien-Wen Li 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(10):4936-1259

Except the commonly selected pressure transfer function derived from the linear wave theory, a previous study on the pressure transfer function for recovering surface wave from underwater pressure transducer suggested that the pressure transfer function is a function of frequency parameter only. With careful analysis, this study showed that the pressure transfer function should include a transducer submergence parameter as that given by the linear theory. It was found that the previously suggested empirical formula should be restricted to measurements with the pressure transducer close to the surface; otherwise overestimation of wave height would result. Field measurements were carried out with an acoustic wave gauge and a synchronized pressure transducer located at various depths with submergence parameter close to 1 (near the sea floor). It was shown that the previous one-parameter empirical formula might overestimate the significant wave height by more than 30%. This study found that with deep-water wave bursts excluded, the transfer function based on the linear wave theory provided a fairly good estimation on the significant wave heights, with an average deviation of 3.6%.  相似文献   

海沧邻近海域表层沉积物中重矿物研究   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

徐茂泉  沈兴兴  李超  孙美琴  许文彬 《海洋科学》2003,27(11):53-58

对厦门海沧邻近海域表层沉积物中的重矿物(0．063～0．125mm粒级)进行了分析和研究，结果表明该粒级的重矿物共计49种，其优势和特征矿物为磁铁矿、赤铁矿、褐铁矿、绿帘石、铁铁矿、角闪石、锆石、红柱石等；重矿物的平均质量分数为9．56％；根据重矿物的分布和含量，并结合主要标志矿物的颗粒百分含量和分布特征，将该海域划分为5个矿物组合区，根据各区的矿物组合类型分析了该海域的物质来源及影响重矿物分布和组合的因素，进而探讨了九龙江河口湾和厦门西港海湾的沉积环境。  相似文献   

Fuzzy Fatigue Reliability Analysis of Offshore Platforms in Ice-Infested Waters   总被引：3，自引：3，他引：3  

方华灿  段梦兰  贾星兰  谢彬 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(3)

1 .IntroductionTheBohaiGulfisinfestedbyiceinthewholewinter,andoffshorestructuresthereexperiencenotonlywind ,waves ,currentsandearthquake ,butalsoiceloadswhicharecomplicatedbecauseofthedynamicinteractionbetweenicesheetsandstructures.Duanetal.( 2 0 0 0 )hadacomprehensivere viewofthelatestadvancesonice inducedvibration ,fatigueandfractureofoffshorestructures ,payingmuchattentiontothedifferencesinicebreakingmodeanddynamicsofstructuresindifferentice in festedwaters .Theypresentedcriticallythelates…  相似文献   

Distribution of dissolved organic carbon in and near the Prydz Bay, Antarctica     

Qiu Yusheng  Chen Min  Huang Yipu  Liu Guangshan 《海洋学报(英文版)》2003,22(4):547-556

INTRODUCTIONDissolvedorganiccarbon (DOC)makesupthesecondlargestofthebioactivepoolsofcar bonintheocean ,secondtothelargestpoolofdissolvedinorganiccarbon .Theglobaldissolvedorganiccarbonpoolisestimatedtobe 6 85Gt,avaluecomparabletothemassofCO2 intheat mosphere (Hedges,1 992 ) .Thesizeofthereservoir,aswellasitsdynamics ,indicatesthatDOCplaysacentralroleintheoceancarboncycle .AsitrelatestogreenhousegasessuchasCO2 andassociatesclimatecycle ,oceanicDOCbiogeochemicalcycleshavebeenoneoftheh…  相似文献   

Wave-Current Forces on Vertical Cylinders in Side-by-Side Arrangement for Irregular Waves Combined With Opposing Current     

Li Yucheng Wang Fenglong Professor  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Senior Engineer  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1993,(1)

- The wave-current forces on vertical piles in side-by-side arrangement induced by irregular waves with opposing current are investigated experimentally in this paper. The characteristics in both time and frequency domain of in-line, lift and resultant forces are analyzed. The grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on piles related to KC number and relative spacing parameters are given. These results are compared with those in the case of irregular waves combined with following currents. It is found that the results in these two cases are quite different. The range of KC number tested is 10- 60, the range of Reynolds number is (0.55-3.43) ×104.  相似文献   

环太湖河道污染物负荷量的初步研究   总被引：5，自引：1，他引：5       下载免费PDF全文

袁静秀  黄漪平 《海洋与湖沼》1993,24(5):485-493

根据１９８７－１９８８年环太湖河道水质，水量实测资料以及环湖主要河道的流量和水质的历史资料，结合平原水网地区的水情特征，提出了环太湖河道污染物负荷量的计算方法，并分析探讨了不同设计水情下环太湖河道污染物负荷量及其时空变化。结果表明，污染物负荷量与水情关系密切，枯水年的河道入湖污染物负荷量大于丰水年。环湖２２条主要河道的入湖污染物负荷量占全部河道入湖总量的７２％－９１％，且不同污染物入湖负荷量的分布  相似文献   

台湾海峡中北部上升流区各种形态磷的化学特性   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4       下载免费PDF全文

陈水土 《海洋与湖沼》1993,24(6):664-670

根据１９８８年７月调查资料讨论了台湾海峡中北部海域夏季上升流区各种形态磷的分布特征。结果表明，上升流中心区（即海坛岛东侧一带水域）具有低温、高盐、低溶解氧；ＤＩｐ，ＴＤＰ，ＰＰ，ＴＰ较高；ＤＯＰ较低（０．２７）；及ＤＩＰ／ＤＯＰ比值（约为１）较高的特性。ＤＯＰ是该海域磷的主要形态（占ＴＰ的４９．２％），其含量分布及其形态转化与生物活动直接相关，是该海域生物生产力高的体现。  相似文献   

The Nonlinear Wave Force on a Circular Cylinder in Shallow Water     

Qiu Dahong 《中国海洋工程》1992,(2)

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.  相似文献