Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

水溶液中聚合物在粘土上的吸附          下载免费PDF全文

王修林 《海洋与湖沼》1993,24(4):420-427

水溶液中聚合物在粘土上的吸附对于聚合物污染防治和污水处理等都有重要意义。Scheutjens-Fleer理论是应用范围最广的聚合物吸附理论,适应于从单体到长链高聚物,从链无相互作用的稀溶液到纯聚合物的吸附研究。本文简要介绍了有关聚合物吸附的重要参数,包括吸附量、耦合分数或直接表面覆盖、平均层厚度和链段密度,以及相应的测定方法。文中分析了影响聚合物吸附研究发展的主要问题,指出水溶液中聚合物在粘土上的吸附研究的发展方向是综合研究吸附等温线和A/V效应、耦合分数、吸附层厚度、吸附分级现象和对粘土层间的影响,并与Scheutjens-Fleer理论计算结果进行比较。  相似文献   

A perturbation solution for nonlinear structural response to oscillatory flow     

A.W. Lipsett   《Applied Ocean Research》1986,8(4):183-189

  相似文献   

四阶奇异边值问题无穷多个正解存在性的一个注记     

张若君 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2002,32(5):848-852

本文考虑四阶奇异边值问题x( 4 ) =λa(t) f (t,x(t) ) ,0 相似文献   

Hammerstein型非线性积分方程解的存在性     

白锦东  刘秀元 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2002,32(1):152-158

该文采用化为积分方程组的方法 ,利用锥上不动点指数计算 ,在不要求非线性项 f (x,u)非负的情况下 ,证明 Hammerstein型非线性积分方程 φ(x) =∫Gκ(x,y) f (y,φ(y) ) dy非平凡解和多解存在性的一些新的结果。此结果可用来证明非线性常微分方程两点边值问题解的存在性。  相似文献   

On the radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Y.H. Zheng  P.F. Liu  Y.M. Shen  B.J. Wu  S.W. Sheng 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(3-4):436-450

The radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas of finite depth is investigated. The analytical expressions for the radiated and diffracted potentials are derived as infinite series by use of the method of separation of variables. The unknown coefficients in the series are determined by the eigenfunction expansion matching method. The expressions for wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients and reflection and transmission coefficients are given and verified by the boundary element method. Using the present analytical solution, the hydrodynamic influences of the angle of incidence, the submergence, the width and the thickness of the structure on the wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients, and reflection and transmission coefficients are discussed in detail.  相似文献   

Analytic Solution of Interaction Between Surface Waves and Floating Elastic Plates with Elastic End-Restraints     

赵存宝张嘉钟  邢海燕黄文虎 《中国海洋工程》2007,21(1):23-38

Based on the dynamic theories of water waves and Mindlin plates,the analytic solution of interaction between surface waves and two-dimensional floating elastic plates with edge-restraint is constructed by use of the Wiener-Hopf technique.Firstly,without regard for elastic edge restraint,the wave-induced responses of elastic floating plate analyzed by the present method are in good agreement with the results from literature and experimental results.Therefore,it can be shown that the present method is valid.Secondly,three end-restraint cases(i.e.,the left-end elastic restraints,the both-end elastic restraints,and the right-end elastic restraints)are proposed to reduce the vibration of floating plates,in which the spring is used to connect the sea bottom and the floating plate's left(or right)edge.The relations between the spring stiffness and the parameters of wave-induced responses of floating plates are discussed.Moreover,the effective method to reduce the vibration of floating elastic plates can be obtained through comparison.  相似文献   

碳水化合物的组合合成     

王群  于广利 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2001,31(1):45

碳水化合物的组合合成是一项新兴技术，该技术可以在短时间内合成大量用于进行生物活性筛选的寡糖及拟糖物。液相与固相合成技术可以极大地加快药物研究与开发进程。作者针对该技术在碳水化合物合成方面的研究进展情况进行讨论。  相似文献   

一类广义Sine-Gordon方程的概周期解   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

朴大雄  邱汶华 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2006,36(6):892-894

用最大值原理和Banach压缩映像原理研究一类广义Sine-Gordon方程的概周期解问题,证明概周期解的存在‖u‖L∞<π2中的唯一性。  相似文献   

McCreary和Fickian湍扩散形式差异的分析     

吴德星  李国璋  李宝辉  陈峰 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1993,(Z2)

用矩阵方法,求解McCreary和Fickian铅垂向湍扩散形式下,无界海洋条件时在风应力和深层浮力作用下的线性解。得出不同的湍扩散系数A情况下McCreary与Fickian湍扩散形式的流场结构。指出随湍扩散系数的增加,McCreary和Fickian湍扩散形式下u分量结构及其量值差异增大。在Fickian湍扩散形式下,能量穿越密度跃层的传递能力较强。当A=0.1cm~2s~(-3)时,在风应力和深层浮力作用下两种湍扩散形式造成流场的差异很小。提出在小湍扩散系数下,用McCreary湍扩散形式研究热带海洋环流,其结果和Fickian形式应相当一致。  相似文献