Spatial variability in beach biogeomorphology in a tropical archipelago     

Shannon Gore  J. Andrew G. Cooper  Derek W.T. Jackson  Lianna Jarecki 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2019,44(9):1860-1875

Beaches of tropical island coasts exhibit high levels of diversity in composition and form in comparison with their continental counterparts. To investigate the nature and origin of this diversity, individual beach morphology and sedimentology was investigated in the British Virgin Islands (BVI), a Caribbean archipelago of > 60 high volcanic and low reef islands. The islands exhibit a diversity of orientations (some facing the Atlantic and some the Caribbean), elevation and gradient, rock type and wave energy. An examination of 100 beaches in the archipelago revealed a first-order division into sand (70 beaches) and coral rubble (30 beaches). These beaches occur in seven planform types (determined by the antecedent geological framework) and are further subdivided according to shoreface type (seagrass, sandy shoreface, or reef). Mainland-attached headland-embayment beaches are the most common form of sand beach while coral rubble beaches usually occur as barriers that enclose salt ponds and wetlands. Among sand beaches, carbonate content is greatest on Atlantic-facing beaches, and coral rubble beaches are more common on Caribbean-facing beaches. Grain size characteristics on sandy beaches are highly variable and range from fine to very coarse sands while coral rubble beaches range up to boulder-sized clasts. The local source material is a primary determinant of sediment composition. The local factors such as the underlying geology, source and availability of sediments are the primary determinants of beach form, composition and texture in the BVI. Oceanographic and climatic conditions such as the prevailing easterly trade winds and waves which seasonally range in direction from east-northeast to southeast as well as beach orientation to Atlantic- or Caribbean-facing waves also contribute to the variability, but in a secondary role. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

Characterizing beach intertidal bar systems using multi-annual LiDAR data     

Andrew Miles  Suzana Ilic  Duncan Whyatt  Mike R. James 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2019,44(8):1572-1583

Intertidal bars are common in mesotidal/macrotidal low-to-moderate energy coastal environments and an understanding of their morphodynamics is important from the perspective of both coastal scientists and managers. However, previous studies have typically been limited by considering bar systems two-dimensionally, or with very limited alongshore resolution. This article presents the first multi-annual study of intertidal alongshore bars and troughs in a macrotidal environment using airborne LiDAR (light detection and ranging) data to extract three-dimensional (3D) bar morphology at high resolution. Bar and trough positions are mapped along a 17.5 km stretch of coastline in the northwest of England on the eastern Irish Sea, using eight complete, and one partial, LiDAR surveys spanning 17 years. Typically, 3–4 bars are present, with significant obliquity identified in their orientation. This orientation mirrors the alignment of waves from the dominant south-westerly direction of wave approach, undergoing refraction as they approach the shoreline. Bars also become narrower and steeper as they migrate onshore, in a pattern reminiscent of wave shoaling. This suggests that the configuration of the bars is being influenced by overlying wave activity. Net onshore migration is present for the entire coastline, though rates vary alongshore, and periods of offshore migration may occur locally, with greatest variability between northern and southern regions of the coastline. This work highlights the need to consider intertidal bar systems as 3D, particularly on coastlines with complex configurations and bathymetry, as localized studies of bar migration can overlook 3D behaviour. Furthermore, the wider potential of LiDAR data in enabling high-resolution morphodynamic studies is clear, both within the coastal domain and beyond. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

Morphodynamic interactions of continental shelf,beach and dunes: the Cabopino dune system in southern Mediterranean Spain     

Gonzalo Malvárez  Fatima Navas  Emilia Guisado-Pintado  Derek W.T. Jackson 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2019,44(8):1647-1658

The complex morphodynamic interactions between nearshore, shoreface and dune systems are usually simplified by studying these zones and their associated processes in isolation. However, the established relationships between each of them suggests that an integrated approach is required to examine the genesis, evolution and adaptation of the entire morphodynamic system. The Cabopino dune system in the southern Spanish Mediterranean Sea provides a clear example of a linked morphodynamic system in which a relatively large dune system has been generated and grown through the supply of sediments from an adjacent littoral supply environment. Here, we present a conceptual model of how the nearshore has provided suitable conditions for beach and dune development. We purport that synchronization of sediment activation in the marine and aeolian sections of the system have played a major role in this microtidal setting in which temporal aspects are not only tied to storm action, but to large sedimentary features moving alongshore. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

High-efficiency gravel longshore sediment transport and headland bypassing over an extreme wave event     

R.J. McCarroll  G. Masselink  M. Wiggins  T. Scott  O. Billson  D.C. Conley  N.G. Valiente 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2019,44(13):2720-2727

Gravel beaches are common throughout the high latitudes, but few studies have examined gravel transport rates, in particular at high energy levels, and no studies have quantified gravel transport around headlands. Here, we present the first complete sediment budget, including supra-, inter- and sub-tidal regions of the beach, across multiple headland-separated gravel embayments, combined with hydrodynamic observations, over an extreme storm sequence, representing at least a 1-in-50-year event. Unprecedented erosion was observed (~400 m³ m⁻¹, −6 m vertical), with alongshore flux of 2 × 10⁵ m³, equivalent to annual rates. Total system volume change was determined to the depth of closure and then used to calculate alongshore flux rates. Alongshore wave power was obtained from a wave transformation model. For an open section of coastline, we derive a transport coefficient (CERC formula) of K_Hs = 0.255 ± 0.05, exceeding estimates in lower-energy conditions by a factor of 5 or more. We apply this coefficient to rocky segments of the shoreline, determining rates of headland bypass from 0 to 31% of potential flux, controlled by headland extent and toe depth. Our results support the hypothesis that gravel is transported more efficiently at higher energy levels and that a variable rate or threshold approach may be required. Complete coverage and varying morphology make this dataset uniquely suited to improving model predictions of gravel shoreline change. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

烟台近岸人工鱼礁与自然岩礁底层渔业生物群落特征对比分析     

张荣良  刘辉  孙东洋  侯朝伟  赵建民 《海洋与湖沼》2021,52(3):697-707

为探究烟台近岸人工鱼礁区的底层渔业群落与自然岩礁区的差异,本研究于2018年5月—2019年2月在位于山东烟台近岸的养马岛自然岩礁区、牟平人工鱼礁区及毗邻泥沙区开展4个季度的渔业调查。调查共发现渔业生物15目37科53种,自然岩礁区与人工鱼礁区的平均物种数的差异不显著,但均明显高于泥沙区(Kruskal-Wallis test, P0.05)。两礁石区的CPUE(catch per unit effort)在各季节均显著高于泥沙区(ANOVA,P0.05),春、夏季自然岩礁的CPUE显著高于人工鱼礁(ANOVA, P0.05)。三个区域的优势种存在一定相似性,但各优势种的CPUE呈现出明显的区域差异,尤其对于许氏平鲉及大泷六线鱼,人工鱼礁的生境优势高于其他两个区域。多样性分析结果显示,自然岩礁区的Shannon-Wiener多样性指数H′最高,其次为人工鱼礁区和泥沙区。自然岩礁与人工鱼礁区Magalef丰富度指数D的差异不显著,但都明显高于泥沙区(ANOVA, P0.05)。ANOSIM分析表明三个海区的群落组成在各季节均存在显著差异(P0.05),主要原因是优势种资源量和分布存在明显的区域差异,这也反映了优势种对群落结构的塑造作用。RDA分析发现,温度、溶氧及水深依次为影响群落结构的主控环境因子,可解释部分群落结构的异质性。本研究证实人工鱼礁可以有效提高以岩礁性鱼类为主的渔业资源量,然而其群落结构复杂度、生物多样性水平与相对成熟的自然岩礁区仍存在一定差距,未来其能否取代或超越自然岩礁的功能,仍需要长时间的积累和观测。  相似文献   

小流域水污染治理示范工程——杭州长桥溪的生态修复   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

吴芝瑛  陈鋆 《湖泊科学》2008,20(1):33-38

长桥溪是杭州西湖上游四大溪流之一.长桥溪生态修复工程利用长桥溪流域的微地貌和水动力作用,通过地埋式污水处理系统与人工湿地相结合的方法,将污水处理工艺与景观园林紧密结合,综合运用物理、化学、生物等手段对长桥溪流域内污水进行处理,从而减少该溪向西湖的污染物排放.工程经过两年运行,2006年其入湖湖水的TP、TN、NH4 -N和CODMn浓度分别降至0.067±0.041mg/L、3.54±1.23 mg/L、0.59±0.46mg/L和2.11±0.38mg/L,较2003年依次降低了88.5%、68.8%、89.1%和68.0%.  相似文献   

Long-range forecasting of suspended sediment     

A. O. Pektas 《水文科学杂志》2017,62(14):2415-2425

This study examines the employment of two methods, multiple linear regression (MLR) and an artificial neural network (ANN), for multistep ahead forecasting of suspended sediment. The autoregressive integrated moving average (ARIMA) model is considered for one-step ahead forecasting of sediment series in order to provide a comparison with the MLR and ANN methods. For one- and two-step ahead forecasting, the ANN model performance is superior to that of the MLR model. For longer ranges, MLR models provide better accuracy, but there is an important assumption violation. The Durbin-Watson statistics of the MLR models show a noticeable decrease from 1.3 to 0.5, indicating that the residuals are not dependent over time. The scatterplots of the three methods (MLR, ARIMA and ANN) for one-step ahead forecasting for the validation period illustrate close fits with the regression line, with the ANN configuration having a slightly higher R² value.  相似文献   

Modelling the impact of a time-varying wave angle on the nonlinear evolution of sand bars in the surf zone     

Abdel Nnafie  Niek van Andel  Huib de Swart 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2020,45(11):2603-2612

Sandy beaches are often characterized by the presence of sand bars, whose characteristics (growth, migration speed, etc.) strongly depend on offshore wave conditions, such as wave height and angle of wave incidence. This study addresses the impact of a sinusoidally time-varying wave angle of incidence with different time-means on the saturation height, migration speed and longshore spacing of sand bars. Model results show that shore-transverse sand bars (so-called TBR bars) eventually develop under a time-varying wave angle. Depending on the time-mean, amplitude and period of the varying angle of wave incidence, the mean heights and mean migration speeds of the bars can be larger or smaller than their corresponding values in the case of time-invariant angles. Bars might not even form when the wave angle varies around a too large oblique mean value, whereas bars exist in the case of a time-invariant wave angle. The oscillations in both bar height and migration speed are large if the period of the time-varying wave angle is close to the adjustment timescale of the system and if large differences in the local growth and migration rates of the bars occur during one oscillation period. The oscillations in bar height are a combination of harmonics with the principal period and half the period of the time-varying wave angle, whereas those of migration speed contain only the principal period. Bars that are subject to time-varying wave angles have larger longshore crest-to-crest spacings than those which form under fixed wave angles. Physical explanations for these findings are given. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd  相似文献   

Mapping shoreline indicators on a sandy beach with supervised edge detection of soil moisture differences     

《International Journal of Applied Earth Observation and Geoinformation》2019

This study describes a method to map shoreline indicators on a sandy beach. The hypothesis is that, on this beach, spectral albedo is predominantly determined by moisture content and water lines can, therefore, be detected as albedo contrasts. A laboratory experiment is performed to relate moisture content to image albedo, and supervised edge detection is subsequently used to map the shoreline indicators with remote sensing imagery. The algorithm is tested with data from visible, near-infrared and shortwave-infrared wavelength regions. These results are compared to shoreline indicators obtained by a field survey and a shoreline indicator derived from a digital elevation model. Both the water line present when the imagery was acquired, as well as the maximum extent of the last flood, can be detected as a single edge. Older high water lines are confused with the last high water line and appear dispersed, as there are multiple debris lines present on the beach. The low water line, usually in saturated sand, also appears dispersed due to the presence of channels and troughs. Shorelines are constant moving boundaries, which is why shoreline indicators are used as a proxy. Unlike a mathematical indicator that is based on an elevation model, our method is more sensitive to the dynamic nature of shorelines. Supervised edge-detection is a technique for generating reproducible measurements of shoreline indicator positions over time, and aids in the monitoring of coastline migration.  相似文献   

黄河三角洲高效生态经济区海岸带地貌环境特征及发育模式          下载免费PDF全文

王奎峰  张太平  王岳林  王强  张瑞华  王薇  赵慧  刘洋  张红军  韩祥银  郭秀岩 《山东国土资源》2018,34(5)

黄河三角洲高效生态经济区是具有国家战略地位的重要生态经济区,该地区的海岸带地处海陆交接地带,属于陆缘海海岸带,生态环境脆弱,区域海岸带地形地貌系统性阐述甚少。在开展该区域生态地质环境调查的基础上,结合实际调查情况及以往文献的研读,对该地区海岸带地形地貌、岸滩地貌类型及特征进行了系统性归纳总结。整个黄河三角洲高效生态经济区的海岸带地貌分黄河三角洲粉砂淤泥质海岸、莱州湾南岸潍北平原区粉砂淤泥质海岸、莱州砂质海岸3个部分。岸滩类型分为黄河三角洲岸段冲淤平衡潮滩、侵蚀潮滩、淤积潮滩3种及莱州湾岸段侵蚀潮滩及侵蚀砂质海滩2种。  相似文献