Dynamic properties of green water event in the overtopping of extreme waves on a fixed dock     

Nobuhito Mori  Daniel T. Cox 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(16):2021-2052

A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values.  相似文献   

基于非期望产出的中国滨海旅游生态效率评价——以我国沿海城市为例     

狄乾斌  赵晓曼  王敏 《海洋通报》2020,39(2):160-168

旅游生态效率是反映旅游经济与旅游环境双向效应(bi-effect)的重要判断指标。本文基于非期望产出视角,采用超效率SBM模型,评价了我国东部沿海18个主要滨海旅游城市的旅游生态效率,并分析了其时空演变特征。研究结果表明:(1)中国东部沿海18市滨海旅游生态效率整体呈中等水平,平均值处于0.727～0.894,阶段特征明显,呈现前期平稳发展,中期下降,后期回升的发展趋势;(2)各城市滨海旅游生态效率水平差异显著,分为下行风险型,持续成长型,稳定型和波动型4种发展类型。平均效率值最高为天津,最低为三亚;(3)分解效率均值中纯技术效率较高,规模效率次之,技术进步是影响综合效率的主要因素;(4)投入冗余和非期望产出冗余已经成为阻碍滨海旅游生态效率进步的关键因素。  相似文献   

Response of the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria to climate and non-climate forcing     

IB Danladi  M Gül  E Ateş 《African Journal of Marine Science》2020,42(1):43-51

Despite threats emanating from the influence of climate and non-climate forcing on the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria, the extent of the coastal erosion is poorly understood. We report evidence of coastal erosion and sediment accumulation in the region over a 34-year period (1973–2017), using Landsat imagery at intervals of approximately six years. Landsat image corrections and various water-extraction algorithms were used to systematically delineate coastal erosion and accumulation in the area. The region was subdivided into western and eastern subregions separated by Lagos Harbour. In the west, erosion took place during the periods 1973–1979, 1979–1984, 1990–1999 and 2005–2011, whereas in the east, erosion occurred during 1973–1979, 1990–1999 and 1999–2005. Coastal sediment accumulation occurred in the east during 1979–1984, 1984–1990, 2005–2011 and 2011–2017, whereas gains in the west occurred during 1984–1990, 1999–2005 and 2011–2017. The study revealed substantial net erosion of 1 228.1 ha in the region as a whole, over the full period. Sediment accumulation accompanying the coastal erosion appears to be linked to longshore drift. Erosion between 1973 and 2011 was probably attributable to climate change (storms and tidal conditions), longshore drift, the inflow and outflow of water at Lagos Harbour, coastal morphology and, possibly, human impacts. However, the coastal changes between 2011 and 2017 were more obviously associated with human activities, such as development of the Eko Atlantic construction project. Coastal surveillance, together with the use of environmentally sensitive protective measures, could possibly help to reduce coastal erosion in the region. Careful coastal management practices, including artificial nourishing and the installation of resilient structures (e.g. seawalls), should be undertaken to protect human settlements that are already at risk from sea-level rise.  相似文献   

Trichodesmium erythraeum (Ehrenberg) bloom along the southwest coast of India (Arabian Sea) and its impact on trace metal concentrations in seawater     

Anoop A. Krishnan  P.K. Krishnakumar  M. Rajagopalan 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2007,71(3-4):641-646

The incidence of a large scale Trichodesmium erythraeum bloom along the southwest coast of India (Arabian Sea) observed in May 2005 is reported. Around 4802 filaments of T. erythraeum ml⁻¹ seawater was observed and a colony consisted of 3.6 × 10⁵ cells. The bloom was predominant off Suratkal (12° 59′N and 74° 31′E) with a depth of about 47 m, covering an area of 7 km in length and 2 km width. The concentrations of Zinc, Cadmium, Lead, Copper, Nickel and Cobalt were determined in samples collected from the bloom and non-bloom sites using stripping voltammetry. The observed hydrographical and meteorological parameters were found to be favorable for the bloom. The concentrations of Zinc, Cadmium and Nickel were found to be higher at bloom stations, while the concentrations of Lead, Copper and Cobalt were found to be very low at bloom stations. Elevated concentrations of Cadmium and Cobalt were observed at Valappad mainly due to the decomposition of detrital material produced in the bloom. Statistically significant differences (P > 0.01) in metal concentrations between the bloom and non-bloom stations were not observed except for Copper. Metals such as Lead, Copper and Cobalt were removed from the seawater at all places where bloom was observed. Cadmium was found to be slowly released during the decaying process of the bloom.  相似文献   

山东蓬莱西庄附近海域波浪与海岸侵蚀     

陈雪英  胡泽建 《海洋科学进展》1992,(2)

本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据.  相似文献   

均匀水底上二维随机波面的二阶谱   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1       下载免费PDF全文

孙孚  丁平兴  余宙文 《海洋与湖沼》1993,24(1):1-6

本文用摄动方法导出了均匀水底上精确至二阶的二维随机波动解。依据此解并将二阶谱定义为三阶矩函数的Fourier变换,首次给出了精确至二阶的二维随机波面二阶谱的理论表达式并简略地考虑了它的各个组成部分的物理意义。  相似文献   

Prediction of impact pressure induced by breaking waves on vertical cylinders in random seas     

Michel K. Ochi  Chen-Han Tsai 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(3):157-165

This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic.  相似文献   

Descriptive Analysis and Classification of Benthic Communities in Some Mediterranean Coastal Lagoons (Central Italy)   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

M. F. Gravina  G. D. Ardizzone  F. Scaletta  C. Chimenz 《Marine Ecology》1989,10(2):141-166

Abstract. Benthic samples were taken seasonally at 32 stations in five coastal lagoons of Central Italy (Fogliano, Monaci, Caprolace, Fondi, and Lungo) during a two-year period (1982–1984). Composition and distribution of benthic populations in each lagoon as well as seasonal trends of species richness, density, diversity, and redundancy are presented and discussed.
The faunal differentiation appeared to be mainly due to the different degree of water exchange, both with marine and continental systems.  相似文献   

中国海岸湿地退化压力因素的综合分析   总被引：39，自引：1，他引：39       下载免费PDF全文

谷东起  赵晓涛  夏东兴 《海洋学报》2003,25(1):78-85

对我国海岸湿地类型、特点和分布进行了论述.通过分析指出围垦、城市与港口开发、污染、海岸侵蚀、油气资源开发、生物资源过度利用和海平面上升等环境压力因素是造成湿地退化的主要原因.综合矩阵因子分析表明,不同的海岸湿地类型所承受的环境压力和所遭受的环境退化程度是不同的,其中三角洲、海岸潟湖、砂质海岸、珊瑚礁、淤泥质海岸、滨岸沼泽和红树林等湿地类型遭受的环境压力最大,环境退化也最严重;指出了人为因素是造成海岸湿地环境退化的主要原因.  相似文献   

中国海岸带高分辨率遥感系统技术基础研究   总被引：4，自引：4，他引：4  

杨晓梅  杜云艳  陈秀法 《海洋学报》2003,25(6):61-68

基于海岸带作为经济高度发展的地带,特别是我国常规海岸带调查已不能满足海岸带经济发展和现代化管理的基本要求,着重从大量高分辨率遥感数据的组织和管理、快速准确的空间定位系统、特征级的影像融合以及海岸带特征提取等算法,共同构成海岸带高分辨率遥感数据处理及分析方法作为系统的技术基础,并通过与此相匹配的海岸带遥感分类系统及其综合制图等方法研究,支撑起海岸带遥感资源调查先进的技术构架,为实现我国海岸带现代化管理奠定理论和技术基础.  相似文献