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91.
92.
Seawater samples were collected in the lagoon of Nouméa (southwest New Caledonia) along two transects from eutrophic coastal bays to the oligotrophic barrier reef. Land-based emissions to the lagoon were measured with dissolved and particulate concentrations of chromium (Cr) and nickel (Ni), used as tracers of both terrigenous and industrial (Ni ore treatment) activities, as well as dissolved and particulate concentrations of zinc (Zn), used as a tracer of urban effluents. The spatial variability of metal concentrations was related to geochemical and hydrodynamic conditions, i.e., respectively: (1) natural and anthropogenic emission sources, and chemical processes occurring in the water column; and (2) water residence times. The parameter used to describe the residence time of water masses was the local e-flushing time, i.e. the time required for a tracer mass contained within a given station to be reduced by a factor 1/e. High metal concentrations were found in coastal areas (up to 9000 ng dissolved Ni L−1), and steeply decreased with distance from the coast (down to 101 ng dissolved Ni L−1 near the barrier reef) to reach levels similar to those found in remote Pacific waters, suggesting a rapid renewal of waters close to the barrier. Distributions of metals in the lagoon are controlled upstream by land-based emission sources and later chemical processes. Then hydrodynamics constrain metal distributions, as shown by the observed relationship between local e-flushing times and the spatial variability of metal concentrations. In addition, a change in the direction of prevailing winds yielded a decrease of dissolved metal concentrations at the same site by a factor of 2.5 (Cr and Ni) and 2.9 (Zn). It is suggested that the residence time is a key parameter in the control of elemental concentrations in the lagoon waters, as much as land-based emission sources.  相似文献   
93.
Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
M. Aziz Tayfun   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(11-12):1589-1622
Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly.  相似文献   
94.
A three-dimensional numerical model based on the potential theory was developed to study the oblique wave action on vertical walls. A source term inside the domain was used to generate incident waves and outgoing waves were dissipated by sponge layers and transmitted by radiation boundaries. The finite difference method was used to solve the governing equations and boundary conditions in the regular transformed domain in σ-coordinate. Satisfactory agreements between the numerical predictions and experimental results of wave force were obtained. It is concluded that the maximum wave force acting on the vertical walls is induced by the obliquely incident waves rather than the normally incident waves.  相似文献   
95.
双层局部开孔板沉箱对波浪反射的理论研究   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
提出了一种用于研究由双层开孔板和一个不透水后板的开孔结构对斜向波反射率的理论分析方法。整个流域被分成三个子域,在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法以得到该域内包含未知展开系数的势函数的表达式,在速度势的展开中,考虑了非传播模态波浪的影响。通过匹配开孔板处的边界条件可以求解待定的展开系数,继而求解双层开孔板防波堤结构对斜向波的反射率。数值计算结果与试验结果进行了比较,符合较好。并进一步讨论了几个重要因素对反射系数的影响。  相似文献   
96.
97.
Based on the dynamic theories of water waves and Mindlin plates,the analytic solution of interaction between surface waves and two-dimensional floating elastic plates with edge-restraint is constructed by use of the Wiener-Hopf technique.Firstly,without regard for elastic edge restraint,the wave-induced responses of elastic floating plate analyzed by the present method are in good agreement with the results from literature and experimental results.Therefore,it can be shown that the present method is valid.Secondly,three end-restraint cases(i.e.,the left-end elastic restraints,the both-end elastic restraints,and the right-end elastic restraints)are proposed to reduce the vibration of floating plates,in which the spring is used to connect the sea bottom and the floating plate's left(or right)edge.The relations between the spring stiffness and the parameters of wave-induced responses of floating plates are discussed.Moreover,the effective method to reduce the vibration of floating elastic plates can be obtained through comparison.  相似文献   
98.
99.
次重力波(infragravity waves)是频率范围介于局地平均Brunt-V¾is¾l¾频率和0.05Hz(涌浪频率)之间的一种海洋波动,其能量在深水大洋中一般甚低,但在浅海中却很强.该波动的研究对于浅海海洋内部混合、近岸海洋工程、海洋生态学、海洋沉积学及军事海洋学均有重要的意义.Munk[1]很早就开始研究这类波动,然而主要由于观测技术的限制,对于该类波动的动力学机制的研究进展迟缓.  相似文献   
100.
河口海岸环境沉积速率研究方法   总被引:22,自引:0,他引:22  
沉积速率是河口海岸沉积环境的重要参数,对于河口海岸地质历史时期沉积速率的研究,大多采用^14C年龄值计算;现代河口海岸沉积速率的研究方法较多,常见的有河流输沙法,海图对比法,GIS法,放射性同位素测年法等。^14C法结合考古,孢粉等方法,能比较真实地反映河口海岸地质历史时期的沉积速率,对于现代河口海岸沉积,由于GIS和DEM方法的发展和计算机功能的支持,使海图对比的方法克服了手工带来的误差,目前仍然是一种可以使用的方法。放射性同位素^210Pb,^137Cs,^239,240Pu法使沉积速率的计算趋于定量化,在一定时间区域范围内,多种同位素测年同时运用,相互印证,从而使河口现代沉积速率更加准确。  相似文献   
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