Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves Cause a Force and a Torque on the Bottom     

Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》2004,60(6):1045-1052

Freely propagating surface gravity waves are observed to slow down and to stop at a beach when the bottom has a relatively gentle upward slope toward the shore and the frequency range of the waves covers the most energetic wind waves (sea and swell). Essentially no wave reflection can be seen and the measured reflected energy is very small compared to that transmitted shoreward. One consequence of this is that the flux of the wave’s linear momentum decreases in the direction of wave propagation, which is equivalent to a time rate of change of the momentum. It takes a force to cause the time rate of change of the momentum. Therefore, the bottom exerts a force on the waves in order to decrease the momentum flux. By Newton’s third law (action equals reaction) the waves then impart an equal but opposite force to the bottom. In shallow (but finite) water depths the wave force per unit bottom area is calculated, for normal angle of incidence to the beach, to be directly proportional to the square of the wave amplitude and to the bottom slope and inversely proportional to the mean depth; it is independent of the wave frequency. Constants of proportionality are: 1/4, the fluid density and the acceleration of gravity. Swell attenuation near coasts and some characteristics of sand movement in the near-shore region are not inconsistent with the algebraic structure of the wave force formula. Since the force has a depth variation which is significantly faster than that of the dimensions of the particle orbits in the vertical direction, the bottom induces a torque on the fluid particles that decreases the angular momentum flux of the waves. By an extension of Newton’s third law, the waves also exert an equal but opposite torque on the bottom. And because the bottom force on the waves exists over a horizontal distance, it does work on the waves and decreases their energy flux. Thus, theoretically, the fluxes of energy, angular and linear momentum are not conserved for shoaling surface gravity waves. Mass flux, associated with the Stokes drift, is assumed to be conserved, and the wave frequency is constant for a steady medium.  相似文献   

Determination of wave energy dissipation factor and numerical simulation of wave height in the surf zone     

Y. H. Zheng  Y. M. Shen  X. G. Wu  Y. G. You 《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(8-9):1083-1092

Based on the time-dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation. The wave height of regular and irregular waves is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation considering the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. Comparison of numerical results with experimental data shows that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable. The effects of the wave breaking coefficient on the breaking point and the distribution of wave height after breaking are discussed through the study of a specific experimental topography.  相似文献   

of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core     

LIU Yong LI Yucheng TENG Bin MA Baolian 《海洋学报(英文版)》2007,26(3):129-141

The reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core is examined. The present mathematical model is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction method. Numerical results of the present model are compared with the experimental data of different researchers. Numerical examples are given to examine the effect of rock fill on the reflection coefficient. The differences between regular and irregular waves are also investigated by means of theoretical and experimental results. It is found that the minimum reflection coefficient of irregular waves is larger than that of corresponding regular waves, but the contrary is the case for the maximum reflection coefficient.  相似文献   

确定震源位置,发震时刻及区域平均波速的最优化方法     

聂永安  冯德益 《地震研究》1992,15(4):373-380

本文详细讨论了利用井下和地面观测直达波到时资料联合确定震源位置,发震时刻及区域平均波速的最优化方法,该方法对震源深度及波速的确定给予特别的重视与处理。理论检验和实际算例表明,用该方法编制的程序定位精度高,计算速度快,可以在地层差异小的地区推广应用。  相似文献   

Instability of planetary waves in a high vertical resolution model     

Charles A. Lin 《地球物理与天体物理流体动力学》2013,107(4):227-259

Abstract

A high vertical resolution model is used to examine the instability of a baroclinic zonal flow and a finite amplitude topographically forced wave. Two families of unstable modes are found, consisting of zonally propagating most unstable modes, and stationary unstable modes. The former have time scale and spatial structure similar to baroclinic synoptic disturbances, but are localized in space due to interaction with the zonally asymmetric forcing. These modes transport heat efficiently in both the zonal and meridional directions. The second family of stationary unstable modes has characteristics of modes of low frequency variability of the atmosphere. They have time scales of 10 days and longer, and are of planetary scale with an equivalent barotropic vertical structure. The horizontal structure resembles blocking flows. They are maintained by available potential energy of the basic wave, and have large zonal heat fluxes. The results for both families of modes are interpreted in terms of an interaction between forcing and baroclinic instability to create favoured regions for eddy development. Applications to baroclinic planetary waves are also considered.  相似文献   

Open-ocean response and normal mode excitation in an eddy-resolving general circulation model     

Arthur J. Miller  William R. Holland  Myrl C. Hendershott 《地球物理与天体物理流体动力学》2013,107(4):253-278

Abstract

Analysis of a two-layer, flat-bottom, steady-wind driven, eddy-resolving general circulation model reveals a distinct separation in frequency of baroclinic and barotropic motion in the region distant from the model Gulf Stream. The far-field motions at periods less (greater) than about 100 days are predominantly barotropic (baroclinic), unlike the near-field, eddy-generating, free-jet region which contains barotropic and baroclinic energy throughout the modei frequency range. The far-field barotropic energy produces a peak in the model sea-level spectra between 25 and 50 days with a magnitude comparable to energy levels observed in spectra of sea level from oceanic island tide gauges. The far-field barotropic motion is clearly composed of large-scale, resonant, barotropic normal modes drive by mesoscale activity of the turbulent, free-jet region. Oceanic mesoscale turbulence may therefore provide for planetary normal modes an excitation mechanism distinct from atmospheric forcing. The open-ocean, barotropic, model response is very similar to that of a fluctuating-wind driven model, which suggests that atmospheric and intrinsic forcing of mid-ocean eddies may be of comparable importance.  相似文献   

Magnetic Rossby waves in a stably stratified layer near the surface of the Earth's outer core     

Michael I. Bergman 《地球物理与天体物理流体动力学》2013,107(1-4):151-176

Abstract

The stratification profile of the Earth's magnetofluid outer core is unknown, but there have been suggestions that its upper part may be stably stratified. Braginsky (1984) suggested that the magnetic analog of Rossby (planetary) waves in this stable layer (the ‘H’ layer) may be responsible for a portion of the short-period secular variation. In this study, we adopt a thin shell model to examine the dynamics of the H layer. The stable stratification justifies the thin-layer approximations, which greatly simplify the analysis. The governing equations are then the Laplace's tidal equations modified by the Lorentz force terms, and the magnetic induction equation. We linearize the Lorentz force in the Laplace's tidal equations and the advection term in the magnetic induction equation, assuming a zeroth order dipole field as representative of the magnetic field near the insulating core-mantle boundary. An analytical β-plane solution shows that a magnetic field can release the equatorial trapping that non-magnetic Rossby waves exhibit. A numerical solution to the full spherical equations confirms that a sufficiently strong magnetic field can break the equatorial waveguide. Both solutions are highly dissipative, which is a consequence of our necessary neglect of the induction term in comparison with the advection and diffusion terms in the magnetic induction equation in the thin-layer limit. However, were one to relax the thin-layer approximations and allow a radial dependence of the solutions, one would find magnetic Rossby waves less damped (through the inclusion of the induction term). For the magnetic field strength appropriate for the H layer, the real parts of the eigenfrequencies do not change appreciably from their non-magnetic values. We estimate a phase velocity of the lowest modes that is rather rapid compared with the core fluid speed typically presumed from the secular variation.  相似文献   

2DOF numerical investigation of a planing vessel in head sea waves in deep and shallow water conditions     

《Applied Ocean Research》2019

Analysis of a craft with two degrees of freedom (2DOF) consumes time more than simulation of a craft with a fixed trim condition; therefore in most of the previous researches fixed trim condition is taken into account to analyze the flow field around a craft in shallow water and head sea wave conditions. In this paper numerical simulation of Reynolds Average Naiver Stokes (RANS) equations are used to analyze the motion of DTMB 62 model 4667-1 planing vessel in calm water and head sea waves in both deep and shallow water with two degrees of freedom (heave and pitch). For this purpose, a finite volume ANSYS-FLUENT code is used to solve the Navier-Stokes equations for the simulation of the flow field around the vessel. In addition, an explicit VOF scheme and SST k-ω model is used with dynamic mesh scheme to capture the interface of a two-phase flow and to model the turbulence respectively in the 2DOF model.Regarding the results, reducing the wavelength and also the depth of the water can increase the drag force. Also comparing the results of a fixed trim vessel with the results of a free to sink and trim one in calm water shows a difference of approximately 50% in the drag force in shallow water.  相似文献   

地形对陆架拦截波性质及机制的影响     

尹丽萍  郭景松  乔方利 《海洋与湖沼》2018,49(2):263-270

陆架波的性质如频散关系、形成机制等受地形影响。研究地形对陆架波的性质影响具有重要意义。基于陆架拦截波理论,数值计算了分段线性地形下不同宽度陆架上陆架拦截波的频散关系、长波假设下波动的相速度、阻尼情况下的波动耗散率以及强迫波的外力影响因子。分析了陆架宽度及坡度对自由及强迫陆架拦截波性质的影响。陆架宽度影响陆架拦截波的频散关系。陆架变宽,使得长波频散曲线的斜率增大。陆架宽度的增加使第一模态陆架拦截波有明显的性质变化:相速度增大,波动受辐散影响的程度变大,摩擦衰减距离增大,且风应力旋度在波动的生成机制中起到的作用渐强。在宽的陆架上,研究陆架拦截波的生成及强迫波的振幅时,应充分考虑风应力旋度的作用。第二、三模态波动的相速度受陆架坡度的影响较大,但摩擦衰减距离基本都在200km左右,几乎不随陆架宽度改变,属于局地波。  相似文献   

山东半岛沿岸海域悬浮体时空分布及形成机制分析   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  

刘琳  王珍岩 《海洋科学》2019,43(10):55-65

依据2015年GOCI(geostationary ocean color imager)卫星影像反演的悬浮体浓度数据,分析了山东半岛沿岸海域表层悬浮体质量浓度和锋面月变化特征,揭示该海域悬浮体的分布特征和扩散格局,并结合风速、波高以及海表温度数据,对其控制因素进行初步探讨。结果显示:研究区内悬浮体质量浓度整体表现为冬季最高,春秋次之,夏季最低的分布特征;悬浮体扩散过程可以划分为4个阶段,冬季稳定外输,春季向岸退缩,夏季近岸贮存,秋季向外扩散。此外,山东半岛近岸存在一条悬浮体质量浓度高于10 mg/L的浑浊带,该浑浊带同样表现出季节变化,它在秋季开始形成,其悬浮体含量、幅宽及延伸范围在冬季达到最大,春季减弱,夏季消失。研究认为山东半岛沿岸海域的表层悬浮体来源主要是海底沉积物的再悬浮。风场、海浪以及沿岸流的强弱变化对悬浮体分布和输运的季节变化有重要的控制作用:风场和海浪影响海水混合搅拌强度,改变海底沉积物再悬浮作用的临界深度,进而影响表层海水悬浮体浓度,致使悬浮体浓度与风浪的月际变化趋势基本一致;沿岸流携带高浓度悬浮体沿山东半岛输运形成沿岸浑浊带,沿岸流的强度变化直接控制浑浊带的季节变化。  相似文献