福建滨海沙滩保护和利用的建议          下载免费PDF全文

周水  白盛镇 《应用海洋学学报》2022,41(2):209-214

据调查,福建沿海分布有143处主要滨海沙滩,其中已开发利用28处,可合理利用81处,需加强生态保护修复的有21处,被严重破坏已不适宜做海滩资源的有13处。本文在介绍福建滨海沙滩分布及其资源特点基础上,阐述了沿海各地海滩资源的保护与利用现状,分析了主要的资源环境问题及成因,提出了制度建设、资源管控、优化岸滩工程、污染治理、公众宣传、资金保障等有针对性的对策措施。  相似文献   

Coastal ridge constructive processes at a multi-decadal scale in Barreta Island (southern Portugal)     

Xabier Herrero  Susana Costas  Katerina Kombiadou 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2020,45(2):411-423

Multiple ridges across prograding coasts may display variable geometries, commonly expressed through varying elevations. Changes in ridge elevation have been traditionally related to the occurrence of fluctuating progradation rates, which might, in turn, be driven by shifting environmental conditions. Here, we explore the geometry and growth mechanisms of multiple ridges, generated at Barreta Island (Ria Formosa, southern Portugal), as a consequence of the rapid progradation of the island over the last 70 years, following the artificial fixation of the downdrift Faro-Olhão inlet with jetties in 1955. The variability in the morphology of these features was analysed in combination with available wind and wave data, in order to better distinguish growth mechanisms and understand the main parameters determining the final geometry of the observed ridges. The results suggest that (1) most of the identified ridges fall in the beach ridge classification, as they have been mostly built by marine processes, and (2) the parameters derived from, or closely related to wave climate variability (e.g. progradation rates, storm occurrence) can jointly explain most of the observed morphological changes, while aeolian processes played a secondary role. Indeed, ridge geometry appears mainly controlled by progradation rates, with higher ridges associated with lower progradation rates. Progradation rate, in turn, is mostly related to longshore wave power, storminess, and the occurrence storm groups. Yet, the final configuration of ridges can also be affected by runup levels and onshore winds. Therefore, establishing the relation between ridge geometry and wave climate is not a straightforward task, because of the complex processes and interactions that control coastal morphodynamics. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

Morphological and sedimentary features of sandy-muddy transitional beaches in estuaries and bays along mesotidal to macrotidal coasts     

Shaohua Zhao  Hongshuai Qi  Feng Cai  Jun Zhu  Xiang Zhou  Gang Lei 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2020,45(7):1660-1676

Sandy-muddy transitional beaches (SMT-Beaches), representing the transition from sandy beaches to tidal mudflats, should theoretically develop very different morphological and sedimentological characteristics in river estuaries and in semi-enclosed bays due to their contrasting dynamic sedimentary environments. Evidence, however, is rare in the scientific literature. To reveal these morphological and sedimentary differences, the sand–mud transition (SMT) boundary distribution, beach profiles, and surface and downcore sediment grain-size compositions of 27 SMT-Beaches located along mesotidal to macrotidal coasts of the western Taiwan Strait, southeastern China, were investigated. The results show that typical estuarine SMT-Beaches are mainly characterized by an ambiguous SMT, a long distance between the SMT and the coastline (31–302 m), lower SMT and inflection point altitudes (average –0.76 m and –0.04 m), and lower upper beach gradients (~0.068) with fine sand. Estuarine SMT-Beach sediments display clear interbedded mud and sand layers, implying potential SMT migrations over various timescales. By contrast, typical bay SMT-Beaches are characterized by distinct SMT, a short distance between the SMT and the coastline (11–52 m), higher SMT and inflection point altitudes (~0.24 m and ~0.35 m), and narrower upper beaches with higher gradients (~0.095) and coarse sand. Bay SMT-Beaches present relatively stable sedimentary sequences and a narrow gravel belt surrounding the inflection point and/or SMT. These morphological and sedimentary differences between the two SMT-Beach types are initially constrained by sediment supply and transport and are further affected by tide conditions and wave climate. Sediment supply and transport predominately control the sediment structures, while the tidal range strongly influences spatial variations in SMT distances. Wave climate normally drives SMT altitude variations. This study highlights the morphological and sedimentary differences in SMT-Beaches in estuaries and bays, providing important knowledge for further revealing their morphodynamic processes and potential future nourishment. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

Tide-induced variability in beach surface moisture: Observations and modelling     

Laura B. Brakenhoff  Yvonne Smit  Jasper J. A. Donker  Gerben Ruessink 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2019,44(1):317-330

The moisture content w_s of a beach surface strongly controls the availability of sand for aeolian transport. Our predictive capability of the spatiotemporal variability in w_s, which depends to a large extent on water table depth, is, however, limited. Here we show that water table fluctuations and surface moisture content observed during a 10-day period on a medium-grained (365μm) planar (1:30) beach can be predicted well with the nonlinear Boussinesq equation extended to include run-up infiltration and a soil–water retention curve under the assumption of hydrostatic equilibrium. On the intertidal part of the beach the water table is observed and predicted to continuously fall from the moment the beach surface emerges from the falling tide to just before it is submerged by the incoming tide. We find that on the lower 30% of the intertidal beach the water table remains within 0.1–0.2 m from the surface and that the sand is always saturated (w_s≈20%, by mass). Higher up on the intertidal beach, the surface can dry to about 5% when the water table has fallen to 0.4–0.5 m beneath the surface. Above the high-tide level the water table is always too deep (>0.5 m) to affect surface moisture and, without precipitation, the sand is dry (w_s < 5 − 8%). Because the water table depth on the emerged part of the intertidal beach increases with time irrespective of whether the (ocean) tide falls or rises, we find no need to include hysteresis (wetting and drying) effects in the surface-moisture modelling. Model simulations suggest that at the present planar beach only the part well above mean sea level can dry sufficiently (w_s < 10%) for sand to become available for aeolian transport. ©2018 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

Storm response of a mixed sand gravel beach ridge plain under falling relative sea levels: A stratigraphic investigation using ground penetrating radar     

Sebastian J. Pitman  Harry M. Jol  James Shulmeister  Deirdre E. Hart 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2019,44(8):1610-1617

Beach ridge stratigraphy can provide an important record of both sustained coastal progradation and responses to events such as extreme storms, as well as evidence of earthquake induced sediment pulses. This study is a stratigraphic investigation of the late Holocene mixed sand gravel (MSG) beach ridge plain on the Canterbury coast, New Zealand. The subsurface was imaged along a 370 m shore-normal transect using 100 and 200 MHz ground penetrating radar (GPR) antennae, and cored to sample sediment textures. Results show that, seaward of a back-barrier lagoon, the Pegasus Bay beach ridge plain prograded almost uniformly, under conditions of relatively stable sea level. Nearshore sediment supply appears to have created a sustained sediment surplus, perhaps as a result of post-seismic sediment pulses, resulting in a flat, morphologically featureless beach ridge plain. Evidence of a high magnitude storm provides an exception, with an estimated event return period in excess of 100 years. Evidence from the GPR sequence combined with modern process observations from MSG beaches indicates that a palaeo-storm initially created a washover fan into the back-barrier lagoon, with a large amount of sediment simultaneously moved off the beach face into the nearshore. This erosion event resulted in a topographic depression still evident today. In the subsequent recovery period, sediment was reworked by swash onto the beach as a sequence of berm deposit laminations, creating an elevated beach ridge that also has a modern-day topographic signature. As sediment supply returned to normal, and under conditions of falling sea level, a beach ridge progradation sequence accumulated seaward of the storm feature out to the modern-day beach as a large flat, uniform progradation plain. This study highlights the importance of extreme storm events and earthquake pulses on MSG coastlines in triggering high volume beach ridge formation during the subsequent recovery period. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

基于滩涂围垦的海岛城市时空扩张特征研究——以舟山本岛为例          下载免费PDF全文

羊大方  李伟芳  马仁锋  杨晓平  夏然  朱菲菲  袁敏杰  尹昌霞 《海洋学研究》2017,35(2):61-73

以舟山本岛为研究单元,利用1995年,2005年和2015年的遥感影像,采用生态学分析、空间统计学分析、城市扩张指数等方法来探究舟山本岛滩涂围垦活动和城市用地扩张的特点,并分析两者之间的关联。结果表明:(1)在1995—2015年的20 a间,滩涂围垦的面积不断扩大。(2)1995—2005年的滩涂资源利用以近陆域的海涂为主,2005—2015年逐渐向浅海发展。(3)1995—2015年间,城市用地面积前10 a增长强度为0.53,增长速度为3.01 km²/a,后10 a增长强度为1.46,增长速度为8.11 km²/a。(4)舟山本岛的城市发展重心在20 a间经历了一个自西向东移动而后向北跳跃的过程,各区域间协同发展,使舟山本岛经济整体性和城市功能合理性得到提升。(5)滩涂围垦形成的土地与城市用地扩张之间存在着正相关关系,且从研究数据来看两者之间发生自然演替需要时间,大约为8~10 a,人工干预可以大幅缩短这个过程所需要的时间。  相似文献   

人工砾石海滩变化及输移率研究   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

于跃  蔡锋  张挺  戚洪帅  刘建辉 《海洋工程》2017,35(5):79-87

在我国采用砾石海滩在某些强动力区域进行海滩养护是一种新的尝试,具有很好的适用性。以厦门天泉湾人工砾石滩为研究对象,对2015年至2016年间10条海滩剖面开展了5次周期性监测,通过综合分析,得出在人工砾石滩竣工完成后的一年时间内,滩肩外沿线、岸线及滩面底角的砂砾分界线大幅度后退,滩肩宽度变窄;滩肩外沿线明显隆起,形成滩肩脊线;滩面坡度变大,且上游侧海滩的滩面普遍比下游侧海滩的滩面陡,一年后,岸滩整体变化趋于稳定。针对砾石滩不断向西南方向运移的现状,采用Leo C.van Rijn输移率公式计算砾石滩年平均输移率,并通过测量断面法、体积变化量法对Leo C.van Rijn公式计算结果进行验证,得出砾石滩年平均输移率的范围约为1 015.66~2 392.5 m~3/a。  相似文献   

Textural characteristics and morphosedimentary environment of foreshore zone along Ganpatipule,Maharashtra, India     

Sheela Sharma  Rajamanickam Gowthaman 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2017,35(6):887-894

The cross-shore profile and the textural distribution of foreshore sediments of Ganpatipule beach along Maharashtra coast covering two annual cycles are examined. Ganpatipule beach depicts erosion and accretion of the berm, reduction and widening of foreshore widths during the monsoon (June–September) and post-monsoon (October–May), respectively with net sediment accretion during the study period due to the changes in the wave characteristics. A direct correlation is observed between the median sediment grain size and beach-face slopes signifying high wave energy ensuing to a gentle to very gentle slope. The sediments are mainly medium grain size, moderately well sorted, bimodal, very fine skewed to very coarse skewed and very platykurtic to very leptokurtic in nature. The binary plots of the textural parameters (mean, skewness, kurtosis, and standard deviation) depicted a characteristic beach environment of deposition. The study shows that the sediment is concentrated in the environment of rolling and bottom suspension. The study on grain size distribution of sediments could be used to assess the wave energy condition prevailing along the coastal area.  相似文献   

准噶尔盆地车排子地区下白垩统沉积体系分布及油气成藏模式     

董艳蕾  朱筱敏  赵东娜 《现代地质》2015,29(1):71-79

准噶尔盆地车排子地区自排2井区发现春光油田后,未能取得更大的勘探突破,该区存在斜坡带薄层砂体识别困难以及油气成藏主控因素及成藏模式不清等问题。通过高精度层序地层学、地震沉积学和石油地质的综合研究,明确了研究区白垩系的沉积相类型,包括扇三角洲前缘水下分流河道和水下分流河道间微相以及滨浅湖坝砂、滩砂和湖泥微相。有利的储集砂体、阶梯式输导体系和保存封堵条件是车排子地区下白垩统油气藏的主控因素。由于保存条件的不同,工区不同层位、不同位置发育的油气藏,其油品具有显著的差异。进而建立了斜坡带下部、中部和上部3种不同的成藏模式,最终指出斜坡带下部的SQq _1-SQq_2是油气勘探的有利区带和有利层位。研究结果为下一步勘探指明了方向。  相似文献   

Evaluating proxies for estimating subaerial beach volume change across increasing time scales and various morphologies          下载免费PDF全文

Ethan J. Theuerkauf  Antonio B. Rodriguez 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2014,39(5):593-604

Proxies, such as changes in beach profiles and shoreline positions, are commonly used in management and research for estimating changes in subaerial beach volume; however, the accuracy of these proxies across increasing time scales and complex morphologies is unclear. Volume changes associated with along‐beach morphologic variability may not be captured well by changes in profiles, while volume changes associated with across‐beach morphologic variability may not be captured well by measuring shoreline change. This study assesses the impacts of morphologic variations, associated with beach cusps and nourishment material, on volume change estimates from profiles and shoreline change at 0.5 to 3.5 year time periods. Results indicate that profiles spaced ≥ 150 m apart and the shoreline‐change proxy will likely estimate volume change inaccurately over periods ≤ 1 year at beaches that are consistently eroding or accreting and contain cusps. However, over longer time periods (1–3.5 years), estimates of volume change from both proxies improved at those types of beaches. Volume changes at the edges of nourishment areas are not captured well by profiles. When the nourishment material is graded to a ramped morphology, which minimizes across‐beach morphologic variability, the shoreline‐change proxy does accurately estimate volume changes. Both proxies estimate volume changes inaccurately at beaches where volume changes oscillate between erosion and accretion on both short and long time scales because the magnitude of small‐scale changes in volume from the formation and erosion of morphologic features, such as cusps and berms, will always be similar to the longer‐term net volume change. This study suggests that decadal records of shoreline change, which are commonly developed using aerial photography, can be used to help identify the best proxy for estimating volume change; however, recent anthropogenic modifications that impact patterns of beach sedimentation, including nourishment, terminal groins, and inlet‐channel dredging, makes decadal records less useful. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献