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991.
波生流对海岸污染物输移的影响   总被引:2,自引:1,他引:2  
通过物理模型实验对海岸波浪作用下污染物运动特性进行了分析,重点分析了质量输移流、沿岸流、沿岸流不稳定运动及破波带内旋涡运动等海岸水动力因素的影响.实验中坡度分别取为1:100和1:40,实验中采用CCD摄像机记录墨水的运动轨迹,同步测量流体质点速度以及波面升高.实验表明,在破碎带外污染物主要受波浪非线性引起的质量输移流的影响;在破碎带内主要受沿岸流的影响,同时还受沿岸流不稳定运动及大尺度旋涡运动的影响.  相似文献   
992.
A nested-grid ocean circulation modelling system is used to assess the upper ocean response of the Scotian Shelf and adjacent slope to Hurricane Juan in September 2003. The nested-grid system consists of a fine-grid inner model covering the Scotian Shelf/slope and a coarse-grid outer model covering the northwest Atlantic Ocean. The model-calculated upper ocean response to Hurricane Juan is characterized by large divergent surface currents forced by the local wind forcing under the storm, and intense near-inertial currents in the wake of the storm. The sea surface temperature (SST) cooling produced by the model is biased to the right of the storm track and agrees well with a satellite-derived analysis. Over the deep water, off the Scotian Shelf, some of the near-inertial energy input by the storm is advected eastward by the Gulf Stream away from the storm track. The hurricane also generates shelf waves that propagate equatorward with the coastline on their right. In comparison with the outer model results, the inner model captures more meso-scale structures, greater SST cooling and stronger near-inertial currents in the study region.  相似文献   
993.
Anisotropy of wind and wave regimes in the Baltic proper   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The directional distribution of moderate and strong winds in the Baltic Sea region is shown to be strongly anisotropic. The dominating wind direction is south-west and a secondary peak corresponds to north winds. North-west storms are relatively infrequent and north-east storms are extremely rare. Angular distribution of extreme wind speed also has a two-peaked shape with maxima corresponding to south-west and north winds, and a deep minimum for easterly winds. The primary properties of the anisotropy such as prevailing winds, frequency of their occurrence, directional distribution of mean and maximum wind speeds coincide on both sides of the Baltic proper. The specific wind regime penetrates neither into the mainland nor into the Gulf of Finland or the Gulf of Riga.Properties of the saturated wave field in the neighbourhood of proposed sites of the Saaremaa (Ösel) deep harbour are analysed on the basis of the wave model WAM forced by steady winds. The directional distribution of wave heights in typical and extreme storms is highly anisotropic. Remarkable wave height anomalies may occur in the neighbourhood of the harbour sites.  相似文献   
994.
995.
Pierson- Moskowitz Spectrum, JONSWAP Spectrum as well as Bretschneider- Mitsuyasu Spectrum are used in this paper for analyzing the influence of wave energy directional spread on refraction of wave spectrum due to both current and topography of sea bed. The author's calculation indicates that such kind influence on the characteristic value of wave height as well as the average direction of wave energy propagation can not be ignored.  相似文献   
996.
1.IntroductionVertical breakwaters are widely used for harbor and coastline protection in coastal engineering.Recently,perforated breakwaters have been often used in practice as they can effectively reduce thewaveforces actingon,the wave reflectionfromand…  相似文献   
997.
INTRODUCFIONlt is well known that the stability and interaction of nonlinear waves lead to modulations ofwavenumber and frequency, as well as arnplitude, with the frequency dePendent on bothwavenumber and arnplitude (Witham, l974; Philips, l98l ). These medulations are not justtheoretical curiossities but have important conSequences in oceanography and meteorology, aswell as naval architecture and ocean engineering (honguer-Higgins, l980).By means of Hilbert transfOrm technique, Melvill…  相似文献   
998.
管长龙 《海洋与湖沼》1997,28(5):503-508
基于Longuet-Higgins提出的非线性随机海浪模型,在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩,导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布。该分布为非正态,其形式为截断的级数,而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响,波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。  相似文献   
999.
The analytical study is made by using the method of matched asymptotic expansions on the transmission and reflection of solitary waves and cnoidal waves on two-dimensional floating bodies. The solutions give explicitly the variation pattern of the transmitted waves and the characteristics of the reflected waves, including the wave profile, amplitude, phase shift and evolution. The effects of the gap between the body and the sea bottom on the transmission and reflection of those waves are also discussed.  相似文献   
1000.
A Spectral Approach for Determining Altimeter Wind Speed Model Functions   总被引:9,自引:0,他引:9  
We propose a new analytical algorithm for the estimation of wind speeds from altimeter data using the mean square slope of the ocean surface, which is obtained by integration of a widely accepted wind-wave spectrum including the gravity-capillary wave range. It indicates that the normalized radar cross section depends not only on the wind speed but also on the wave age. The wave state effect on the altimeter radar return becomes remarkable with increasing wind speed and cannot be neglected at high wind speeds. A relationship between wave age and nondimensional wave height based on buoy observational data is applied to compute the wave age using the significant wave height of ocean waves, which could be simultaneously obtained from altimeter data. Comparison with actual data shows that this new algorithm produces more reliable wind speeds than do empirical algorithms. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   
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