Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period     

侯一筠  李明杰  宋贵霆  司广成  齐鹏  胡珀 《中国海洋湖沼学报》2009,27(4):919-923

Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37°27.6′ N, 122°15.1′ E), China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths (ν=0.3−0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988) distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.  相似文献   

方向分布对三维聚焦波浪波面特性影响研究     

李金宣  柳淑学  孙一艳  HONG Keyyong 《海洋工程》2008,26(2):26-33

波浪聚焦被认为是产生极限波浪的重要机理之一,近年来受到普遍重视。通过高阶谱方法,引入造波边界建立数值计算模型,模拟聚焦波浪在不同方向分布时的产生和聚焦过程,研究波浪的方向分布对聚焦波浪的波面、波峰最大值、聚焦点的偏移、波面参数及频谱的影响。研究结果表明波浪方向分布越窄,波浪的非线性影响越强、波面越陡,波峰值、聚焦点的偏移和波面特征参数都越大;同时方向分布对波浪聚焦前后的能量具有很大的影响。  相似文献   

涌浪对风浪能量影响的实验研究     

黄必桂  郑桂珍  丛培秀 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2009,39(3)

在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.  相似文献   

极限波浪运动特性的非线性数值模拟   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1       下载免费PDF全文

宁德志  滕斌  姜立明  臧军 《海洋学报》2008,30(3):126-132

利用时域高阶边界元方法建立了模拟极限波浪运动的完全非线性数值模型,其中自由水面满足完全非线性自由水面条件.采用半混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法追踪流体瞬时水面,运用四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新下一时间步的波面和速度势,同时应用镜像格林函数消除水槽两个侧面和底面上的积分.研究中利用波浪聚焦的方法产生极限波浪,并且在水槽中开展了物理模型实验,将测点试验数据与数值结果进行了对比,两者吻合得很好.对极限波浪运动的非线性和流域内速度分布进行了研究.  相似文献   

广东一次寒潮8级大风物理过程分析   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

苏百兴  段朝霞 《海洋预报》2009,26(1)

本文利用NCEP1°×1°的网格点分析资料和常规观测资料对2006年1月4～7日广东寒潮造成的广东海面8级大风过程进行了物理机制分析.结果表明:受强冷空气南下影响,有着较深厚的强冷平流输送,加之高空动量下传的共同作用,故而造成了广东东、西部海面先后出现了8级大风过程.这为以后更准确地预报广东海面大风提供了良好的依据.  相似文献   

WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟台风浪场的结果分析   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

闫涛  张宇铭  胡保全 《海洋湖沼通报》2009,(4)

利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟2007年8月墨西哥湾飓风迪安的波浪场.将QSCAT/NCEP混合风场与台风模型风场合成为背景风场.修改WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套接口以使WAVEWATCH和SWAN2种海浪预报模式能够有效地嵌套运行.利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟飓风迪安的波浪场,采用浮标资料检验模拟结果,以验证WAVEWATCH和SWAN模拟的准确性及修改后嵌套接口的可用性.结果表明,修改嵌套接口之后模式运行平稳,2种模式的结果与浮标及高度计观测数据均基本吻合.嵌套模拟结果好于单纯使用WAVEWATCH模拟的结果,体现了利用2种模式嵌套模拟台风浪场的科学性.  相似文献   

中国东部海域冬季风场与海浪场的关联特征分析     

周媛媛  周林  关皓  杨波 《海洋科学进展》2020,38(1):60-69

利用WAVEWATCHⅢ海浪模式模拟的1993-2011年中国东部海域19 a冬季逐日海浪场资料以及同期CCMP逐日风场资料,采用奇异值分解(SVD)的方法分析了冬季中国东部海域海浪场与提前0~5 d的东亚大陆地面风场的关联特征。结果发现:海浪场与提前1 d的地面风场的关联更有意义;SVD第一模态和第二模态分别反映了贝加尔湖以东南下的反气旋式偏北扰动大风(或气旋式偏南扰动大风)和中国东部平原入海的气旋式扰动风场(或反气旋式扰动风场)对中国东部海域海浪的扰动影响。此外,SVD分析还揭示了冬季影响中国东部海域海浪的大风关键区和移动路径;随着时间的推移,大风关键区从贝加尔湖以东逐步由蒙古南下影响中国东北和华北地区,最后到达中国东部海域。  相似文献   

任一力学量■的矩阵元Fmn的微扰近似计算     

李祚泳  邓新民 《成都信息工程学院学报》1989,(3)

本文以能量和波函数的各级微扰近似的基态展开式为基础,推导出任一力学量的矩阵元F_(mn)的各级微扰近似表示式。并且指出只要构成能量展式的级数收敛很快,满足能够应用微扰的条件,那么对于任一力学量F的微扰计算,只要计算矩阵元F_(mn)的前二级近似就已足够精确。  相似文献   

ANALYSES OF THE DYNAMIC EFFECTS ON WINTER CIRCULATION OF THE TWO MAIN MOUNTAINS IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE——Ⅱ.VERTICAL PROPAGATION OF PLANETARY WAVES          下载免费PDF全文

邹晓蕾  吴国雄  叶笃正 《Acta Meteorologica Sinica》1992,(4)

A linear,hemispheric and stationary spectral model with multilayers in the vertical was employed to simulate thevertical propagation of waves triggered by mountains.Results show that,in cooperation with the East Asia zonal meanflow,Tibetan Plateau can excite a strong wavenumber 1 perturbation in the stratosphere with its ridge and trough lo-cated over the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans respectively.On the other hand,the stratospheric wavenumber 1 perturbationcaused by the mechanical forcing of the Rocky Mountains in cooperation with the North America zonal mean flow isvery weak.Calculations from observational data of the vertical profile of critical wavenumber for vertically propagatingwaves imply that the tropospheric wavenumber 1 perturbation can hardly penetrate the North America tropopause up-wards,whereas it can freely propagate through the East Asia tropopause into the stratosphere.Two-dimensional E-Pcross-sections obtained from both observational data and simulated results also demonstrate that waves excited by theRocky Mountains are refracted towards low latitudes in the troposphere during their upward propagation:whereas,inaddition to the above mentioned equatorward leaning branch,the wavenumber 1 and 2 planetary waves excited by theTibetan Plateau possess another branch which is refracted to high latitudes during upward propagation and penetratesthe tropopause into the stratosphere.It is therefore concluded that the difference in the horizontal and vertical wavepropagations in the two hemispheres is a result of the different dynamical forcing induced by the two main mountains inthe Northern Hemisphere.  相似文献   

    

Lu Keli  Zhu Yongchun 《大气科学进展》1994,11(4):427-435

The wave rays and their seasonal variation of stationary and low-frequency Rossby waves are studied by using the Runge—Kutta scheme. The results show that for stationary waves the rays can reach lower latitudes in winter, and are limited in higher latitudes in summer. The main differences between the stationary and low-frequency wave rays are that low—frequency waves can propagate across the equator and the easterlies will not be an obstacle on their propagation. It explained to some extent the interaction of disturbances between the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. The lower wave frequencies and the stronger easterly flow are, the more difficult low—frequency waves will be to propagate across the equator. The waves with 20-day period are easier to propagate across the equator than that with 50—day period. The winter is the most favorable season for low—frequency waves to propagate into another hemisphere.  相似文献