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91.
At first-order of approximation a sea-state may be considered as an infinite sum of Airy components with angular frequencies ωi and wave-number vectors ki. A second-order analysis shows the co-existence of long waves appearing at the difference frequencies ωiωj with wave-number vectors ki—kj. In shallow water they become appreciable in amplitudes and may induce slow-drift motion of moored structures.For small values of ωiωj,ki—kj may take all kinds of directions for an angular-spread wave system. Then it may be questioned how the in-line and transverse second-order accelerations compare to those obtained for a mono-directional wave-system.This analysis is carried out here by relating the spectra of the second-order horizontal accelerations to the directional wave-spectrum. Numerical applications are first performed for deep water. They show that at low frequencies, even for very narrowly spread wave systems, the transverse component is larger than the in-line component. In shallow water both components are dratically reduced as compared to the mono-directional case. As a consequence one may question the validity of model-testings or numerical models which take no account of the directionality of the wave-system.  相似文献   
92.
A three-dimensional, multi-level model was used to study the energy dissipation of semidiurnal internal Kelvin waves due to their interaction with bottom topography. A simplified topography consisting of a channel with an additional shallow bay was used to clarify the wave’s scattering process. When the first mode semidiurnal internal wave given at an open boundary arrives at the bay mouth, higher-mode internal waves are generated at a step bottom of the bay mouth. As a result, the energy of the first mode internal Kelvin wave is effectively decayed. The decay rate of the internal Kelvin wave depends on both the width and length of the additional bay. The maximum decay rate was found when a resonance condition occurs the bay, that is, the bay length is equal to a quarter of wave length of the first mode internal wave on the shallow region. The decay rate in the wide bay cases is higher than that in a narrow case, due to a contribution from the scattering due to the Poincare wave that emanates from the corners of the bay head. The decay rate with the additional bay is 1.1–1.8 times that of the case without the additional bay. The decay rate due to the scattering process is found to be of the same order as that of the internal and bottom friction.  相似文献   
93.
Except the commonly selected pressure transfer function derived from the linear wave theory, a previous study on the pressure transfer function for recovering surface wave from underwater pressure transducer suggested that the pressure transfer function is a function of frequency parameter only. With careful analysis, this study showed that the pressure transfer function should include a transducer submergence parameter as that given by the linear theory. It was found that the previously suggested empirical formula should be restricted to measurements with the pressure transducer close to the surface; otherwise overestimation of wave height would result. Field measurements were carried out with an acoustic wave gauge and a synchronized pressure transducer located at various depths with submergence parameter close to 1 (near the sea floor). It was shown that the previous one-parameter empirical formula might overestimate the significant wave height by more than 30%. This study found that with deep-water wave bursts excluded, the transfer function based on the linear wave theory provided a fairly good estimation on the significant wave heights, with an average deviation of 3.6%.  相似文献   
94.
1 .IntroductionTheBohaiGulfisinfestedbyiceinthewholewinter,andoffshorestructuresthereexperiencenotonlywind ,waves ,currentsandearthquake ,butalsoiceloadswhicharecomplicatedbecauseofthedynamicinteractionbetweenicesheetsandstructures.Duanetal.( 2 0 0 0 )hadacomprehensivere viewofthelatestadvancesonice inducedvibration ,fatigueandfractureofoffshorestructures ,payingmuchattentiontothedifferencesinicebreakingmodeanddynamicsofstructuresindifferentice in festedwaters .Theypresentedcriticallythelates…  相似文献   
95.
赤潮生物种类特征光谱获取技术   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
较为系统地研究了赤潮生物水体反射率曲线获取方法。通过对 2类反射率反演方法得出的反射率曲线与实际反射率曲线进行比较 ,得出在不具备大气环境参数的情况下 ,经验线性法的反演结果与实际反射率曲线最接近的结论 ,并进一步对正常海水和赤潮生物水体的光谱特性进行分析 ,提取出赤潮生物水体的特征光谱。这是进行赤潮监测和识别的重要前提  相似文献   
96.
- The wave-current forces on vertical piles in side-by-side arrangement induced by irregular waves with opposing current are investigated experimentally in this paper. The characteristics in both time and frequency domain of in-line, lift and resultant forces are analyzed. The grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on piles related to KC number and relative spacing parameters are given. These results are compared with those in the case of irregular waves combined with following currents. It is found that the results in these two cases are quite different. The range of KC number tested is 10- 60, the range of Reynolds number is (0.55-3.43) ×104.  相似文献   
97.
Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.  相似文献   
98.
The reflection coefficient and the total horizontal forces of regular waves acting on theperforated caisson are experimentally investigated. The empirical relationship between reflection coefficient and the ratio of the total horizontal forces acting on the perforated caisson to those on solid vertical walls with the relative chamber width, relative water depth and porosity of perforated wall, etc. are given. Moreover, the results of the ratio of the total horizontal forces are also compared with formulas given by Chinese Harbour Design Criteria and Takahashi, which may be useful for the practical engineering application.  相似文献   
99.
该文报道碱厂废水随浓度变化的光谱实验。分析碱厂废水的光谱特征 ,并与相同浓度的海水悬浮泥沙水体的光谱进行比较 ;确定该废水特征波长为 50 1.3nm。根据光谱实验结果 ,结合当前已有的水色传感器的资料 ,选择两个卫星传感器波段 :Sea WIFS第四频道 (497.2~ 52 1.6 nm)和TM第二频道 (518.9~ 6 0 0 .2 nm) ;利用数字对 (R,c) ,建立了反射率与该污染水体浓度间的相关模式。为遥感技术大面积、快速地监测碱厂废水污染水体提供理论依据。  相似文献   
100.
Vertical variations of wave-induced radiation stress tensor   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
INTRODUcrIONThe concept of radiation stress was deve1oPed by tonguet--Higgins and Stewart (1964 ),who intreduced the definition of radiation stress as the excess mornentum due to the presence ofwaves, on the basis of time-averaged laws of Newtonian fluid mechanics and the assmption ofa unifOrm velocity distribution over depth. Subequently, the theory has been applied success-fully in the investigation of phenomena such as wave set-up and set--down (Bowen et al.,l968), longshore currents …  相似文献   
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