港域波浪数学模型的改进与验证   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

潘军宁  左其华  王登婷 《海洋工程》2008,26(2):34-43

通过物理模型对改进的港内波浪传播变形数学模型进行验证。该数学模型以推广的时变缓坡方程为控制方程,采用含松弛因子的ADI法求解,并对波浪反射和透射边界模拟方法进行改进。先通过物理模型试验确定斜向浪入射条件下抛石防波堤前的波浪反射系数,作为数学模型中部分反射边界模拟的依据。然后进行了一个典型港口内波浪折射、绕射和反射的模型试验,测量港内波浪分布。对比模型试验和数学模型计算的结果表明,数学模型可较好地模拟港内复杂地形和边界条件下规则波和不规则波的传播变形。  相似文献   

沙质海岸强浪作用下沿岸输沙问题研究   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

王玉海 《海洋工程》2008,26(4)

在沙质海岸上修建导流堤、丁坝等会引起局部海域水沙动力条件的改变和海床冲淤调整,因此准确预测沿岸输沙率是海岸工程建设前进行优化设计的基础条件之一.首先构建了刻画高强度推移质输沙过程中固-液混合体运动的理论模型,通过寻求模型的特解并推导成1D沿岸输沙率公式.该公式适宜计算强浪作用下的推移质输沙率,已得到了大型波浪水槽、往复流水道和海滩现场实测输沙率资料的良好验证.通过与物理模型试验实测输沙量结果的比较,进一步表明该公式能够较好地预测沙质海岸在寒潮大风浪(或台风浪)作用下的高强度输沙量(骤淤量).  相似文献   

Effects of wind waves of the Pacific westerly on the eastern Pacific wave transport   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  

DENG Zeng''an  WU Kejian  ZHAO Dongliang  YU Ting 《海洋学报(英文版)》2009,28(1):83-88

There exists a tongueshaped swelldominance pool known as Swell Pool (SP) in the Eastern Pacific region. The monthlymean wave transports (WT) for each month of 2000 is computed using the wave products of ECMWF reanalysis data. By comparing the 2000 monthlymean WT and monthlymean wind field from QUICKSCAT, large differences are found between the wave transport direction and the wind direction over the Eastern Pacific. This may serve as an evidence for the existence of the SP in this region. The work done in this study indicates that the sources of swell in the Tropical Eastern Pacific (TEP) are in the westerly regions of the Southern and Northern Pacific.  相似文献   

The statistical distribution of nearbed wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth     

Zai-Jin You 《Coastal Engineering》2009

The statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth has been quantitatively determined from the comprehensive field velocity data collected near the seabed in this study. Two ocean ADV current meters, which were mounted at 0.5 m above the seabed on two separate stainless steel tripods sitting on the seabed, were used to measure instantaneous water particle velocities at a 2 Hz sampling rate for 17.07 min every hour in two coastal water depths of 11 m and 23 m in nine field deployments over a period of 2 years. The zero-crossing method is applied to analyse the field velocity data collected in each field deployment to obtain a large sample of wave orbital velocity amplitudes of individual waves. Based on the collected field velocity data, it is found that the histogram of instantaneous wave orbital velocities perfectly follows the Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, while the histogram of wave orbital velocity amplitudes is less accurately described by the Rayleigh distribution than the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. It is also found that large orbital velocity amplitudes are generally overestimated by the Rayleigh distribution, but well predicted by the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. The expected value of maximum orbital velocity in a velocity record of finite size is also derived from the three distributions and found to agree well with the present field data.  相似文献   

Adaptive Predictive Inverse Control of Offshore Jacket Platform Based on Rough Neural Network     

崔洪宇  赵德有  周平 《中国海洋工程》2009,23(2):185-198

The offshore jacket platform is a complex and time-varying nonlinear system,which can be excited of harmful vibration by external loads.It is difficult to obtain an ideal control performance for passive control methods or traditional active control methods based on accurate mathematic model.In this paper,an adaptive inverse control method is proposed on the basis of novel rough neural networks (RNN) to control the harmful vibration of the offshore jacket platform,and the offshore jacket platform model is established by dynamic stiffness matrix (DSM) method.Benefited from the nonlinear processing ability of the neural networks and data interpretation ability of the rough set theory,RNN is utilized to identify the predictive inverse model of the offshore jacket platform system.Then the identified model is used as the adaptive predictive inverse controller to control the harmful vibration caused by wave and wind loads,and to deal with the delay problem caused by signal transmission in the control process.The numerical results show that the constructed novel RNN has advantages such as clear structure,fast training speed and strong error-tolerance ability,and the proposed method based on RNN can effectively control the harmfid vibration of the offshore jacket platform.  相似文献   

Predicting tsunami arrivals: Estimates and policy implications     

Dao Hua Zhang  Tsz Leung Yip  Chiu-On Ng 《Marine Policy》2009

Tsunami is one of a few kinds of natural disasters that leave people some time for escape. This escape time, which is essentially the time for the giant wave to propagate from the epicentre to a coast, has to be estimated without delay upon the occurrence of the incident. With the advancement of water wave theories, much work has been done to model the propagation of tsunamis from deep oceans to shallow water. The authors argue that while much emphasis has been put on the expansion of the high-tech early warning system and the development of complicated tsunami models, a simple-to-use yet accurate predictive model is still wanting. This paper presents a handy linear wave model, which is capable of estimating the arrival time of a tsunami with very good accuracy, as has been verified by comparison with past incidents. With the availability of such a simple model, even local communities without access to a high-tech warning system can readily estimate the time left for emergency evacuation.  相似文献   

Describing and generating facies models for reservoir characterisation: 2D map view     

E.J. Hill  C.M. Griffiths   《Marine and Petroleum Geology》2009,26(8):1554-1563

This paper documents a new method for describing channel-related sedimentary deposits based on formal language theory. Using this method an analogue model of a sedimentary deposit can be encoded as a grammar. A program, called a parser, has been developed which can generate stochastic maps of these sedimentary deposits based on information in a specified grammar. The maps of sedimentary deposits generated by the parser have the same type, spatial arrangement, shape and size distribution as the analogue model. The successful generation of depositional maps represents a crucial step in the ongoing development of a new technique designed to generate 3D static geological models of sedimentary successions. The maps can be conditioned to match sparse hard data in the form of channel segments interpreted from seismic horizon maps.  相似文献   

Nonlinear numerical simulation on extreme-wave kinematics     

NING Dezhi  TENG Bin  LIU Shuxue 《海洋学报(英文版)》2009,28(3):75-81

A fully nonlinear numerical model based on a time-domain higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) is founded to simulate the kinematics of extreme waves. In the model, the fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are satisfied and a semi-mixed Euler-Lagrange method is used to track free surface; a fourth-order Runga-Kutta technique is adopted to refresh the wave elevation and velocity potential on the free surface at each time step; an image Green function is used in the numerical wave tank so that the integrations on the lateral surfaces and bottom are excluded. The extreme waves are generated by the method of wave focusing. The physical experiments are carried out in a wave flume. On the horizontal velocity of the measured point, numerical solutions agree well with experimental results. The characteristics of the nonlinear extreme-wave kinematics and the velocity distribution are studied here.  相似文献   

Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Benoît Camenen   《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2009,84(4):553-564

A large data set on ripples was collected and examined. A set of new formulas for the prediction of the ripple characteristics is proposed with an emphasis on the disappearance of the ripples. The ripple wavelength was observed to be proportional to the bottom wave excursion but also to be a function of the grain-related Shields parameter and wave period parameter introduced by Mogridge et al. (1994). The ripple steepness was found to be nearly constant for orbital ripples, and with a sharp decrease for suborbital ripples. Two empirical functions are added including the effects of the critical Shields parameters (inception of transport and inception of sheet flow), i.e. giving the boundaries for the ripple existence's domain. The proposed formulas yield better prediction capabilities compared to the previously published formulas, especially when ripples are washed out. The effect of the ripple characteristics on the roughness height and the calculation of the bed shear stress is also discussed. It appeared that the bed shear stress calculation is more sensitive to the empirical coefficient a_r introduced in the estimation of the ripple-induced roughness height or to the limits of existence of the ripples than the ripple characteristics themselves.  相似文献   

一个波浪破碎散射模型的改进     

李琨  宋金宝 《海洋科学》2009,33(12):9-11

为了得到与实测数据更为一致的散射模型,对KHCC03散射模型进行了改进.研究了考虑波浪破碎影响的KHCC03散射模型的适用范围.研究结果表明,KHCC03散射模型在入射角为25°～40°范围内,模型结果与实测数据吻合较好,在入射角小于25°和入射角大于40°的情况下,模型结果与实测数据差异较大.针对这一问题,对KHCC03模型进行了改进,结果表明:与原KHCC03模型相比,改进后的模型结果与实测数据吻合程度明显提高.  相似文献