均匀水底上二维随机波面的二阶谱   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1       下载免费PDF全文

孙孚  丁平兴  余宙文 《海洋与湖沼》1993,24(1):1-6

本文用摄动方法导出了均匀水底上精确至二阶的二维随机波动解。依据此解并将二阶谱定义为三阶矩函数的Fourier变换,首次给出了精确至二阶的二维随机波面二阶谱的理论表达式并简略地考虑了它的各个组成部分的物理意义。  相似文献   

Prediction of impact pressure induced by breaking waves on vertical cylinders in random seas     

Michel K. Ochi  Chen-Han Tsai 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(3):157-165

This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic.  相似文献   

Modeling bed-load transport of coarse sediments in the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

A. Bilgili  M. R. Swift  D. R. Lynch  J. T. C. Ip 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,58(4):937-950

Current, sea level and bed-load transport are investigated in the Lower Piscataqua River section of the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire, USA—a well-mixed and geometrically complex system with low freshwater input, having main channel tidal currents ranging between 0.5 and 2 m s⁻¹. Current and sea level forced by the M₂M₄M₆ tides at the estuarine mouth are simulated by a vertically averaged, non-linear, time-stepping finite element model. The hydrodynamic model uses a fixed boundary computational domain and accounts for flooding–drying of tidal flats by making use of a groundwater component. Inertia terms are neglected in comparison with pressure gradient and bottom friction terms, which is consistent with the observed principal dynamic balance for this section of the system. The accuracy of hydrodynamic predictions in the study area is demonstrated by comparison with four tidal elevation stations and two cross-section averaged current measurements. Simulated current is then used to model bed-load transport in the vicinity of a rapidly growing shoal located in the main channel of the lower system. Consisting of coarse sand and gravel, the shoal must be dredged every five to eight years. Two approaches are taken—an Eulerian parametric method in which nodal bed-load flux vectors are averaged over the tidal cycle and a Lagrangian particle tracking approach in which a finite number of sediment particles are released and tracked. Both methods yield pathways and accumulations in agreement with the observed shoal formation and the long-term rate of sediment accumulation in the shoal area.  相似文献   

南海海面高度季节变化的数值模拟   总被引：8，自引：1，他引：8  

刘秦玉  杨海军  贾英来  甘子钧 《海洋学报》2001,23(2):9-17

比较POM模式模拟与观测(TOPEX/Poseidon高度计资料)的南海海面高度(SSH)的季节变化在空间分布上的一致性和差异.结果表明:本文使用的POM模式能较好地模拟南海SSH的季节变化;冬季与夏季,春季与秋季南海海面异常场形式完全相反,冬季Ekman输运造成在西海岸的堆积要比夏季在东海岸堆积更明显,而吕宋冷涡中心附近和吕宋海峡海面季节变化振幅最大;除春季以外,在南海绝大部分海域,海面高度的季节变化主要受风力的控制,南海海面热量通量对SSH的季节变化贡献约为20%,风应力对SSH的季节变化的贡献约为80%.  相似文献   

Gravity torques for surface waves     

Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1997,53(1):89-92

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.  相似文献   

洪泽湖风生流数值模拟   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

姜加虎  黄群 《海洋湖沼通报》1996,(3):7-12

湖流是湖泊中污染物质扩散，悬浮物沉降及输移等的主要水动力学要素，造成湖水运动的成因机制很复杂，其中风生流是重要形式，本文通过构造一个二维闭边界数值模拟，对不同风情下的洪泽湖湖流流态进行模拟研究，探讨其入流较小，沿岩各闸关闭的枯季情况下的风生流特征。  相似文献   

Simulation of wave power devices     

E.R. Jefferys 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(1):31-39

Classical frequency and time domain models of a single degree of freedom wave power device are presented. In the time domain, a convolution integral is conventionally used to represent the fluid dynamic radiation force, characterised by added mass and damping in the frequency domain. This integral is replaced by an approximate ordinary differential equation (ODE) model which is faster and more convenient in simulations. A time domain model of the fluid dynamics of an oscillating water column (OWC) device is derived to illustrate the technique. Digital simulations of the OWC are used to compare the accuracy of the classical and ODE models. The simulation of the ODE model runs about six times as fast as the classical model based on convolution, yet characterises the fluid dynamics accurately.  相似文献   

人工鱼礁工程的风险评估   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

刘德辅  刘伟伟  庞亮 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2007,37(2):317-322

对台风暴潮影响下的嵊泗海域人工鱼礁工程做了风险评估,考虑了台风暴潮中出现的大浪和风暴潮减水对鱼礁联合作用的危害。风险评估分为危险灾害识别、失效概率计算、失效后果评估、风险准则评定和风险管理决策几个主要的步骤。在失效概率的计算中采用基于应用设计点的重点抽样法随机模拟的技术,这一随机模拟技术可以广泛的应用与海洋工程结构的风险评估当中。  相似文献   

热带太平洋-印度洋上层热含量年际变化的主模态   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

武术  刘秦玉  胡瑞金 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2007,37(3):365-371

利用多种海洋资料,采用经验正交函数分解(EOF)与合成分析等方法研究了热带太平洋-印度洋热含量年际变化的主要模态及其对应的转换过程。结果表明其第一模态对应El Nino事件成熟位相时的空间分布,即热带西太平洋和东印度洋为一冷中心,西南印度洋和赤道东太平洋为暖中心;第二模态对应着El Nino事件过渡期的空间分布,太平洋10°N附近以及赤道带为变化中心,而印度洋的变化中心主要在苏门答腊岛西部的赤道东印度洋海区。这2个模态基本刻画了ENSO循环过程中热带两大洋热含量变化的关键海区。利用合成分析结果与EOF分解结果的相似性,探讨了EOF分解前两个模态之间的转换过程,发现第一模态可能主要是通过海洋波动的传播过程调整到第二模态的,而第二模态还可以作为El Nino或La Nina事件的预报因子。此外,分析结果还表明,El Nino事件与La Nina事件对应的热含量变化并不是反对称的。  相似文献   

An evaluation of multi-annual management strategies for ICES roundfish stocks     

Kell  L.T.; Pilling  G.M.; Kirkwood  G.P.; Pastoors  M.A.; Mesnil  B.; Korsbrekke  K.; Abaunza  P.; Aps  R.; Biseau  A.; Kunzlik  P.; Needle  C.L.; Roel  B.A.; Ulrich  C. 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2006,63(1):12-24

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