Effect of Berm Width and Elevation on Irregular Wave Run-Up     

Chen Guoping  Yu Kuang-ming  Zhang Jiachang Assistant Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing Prof.  Senior Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing Senior Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1991,(4)

This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.  相似文献   

Numerical Analysis of Wave Forces on Arbitrarily Shaped Multi-Pillars Over Varying Topography     

Zhang Libang Research Engineer  First Institute of Oceanography  Qingdao 《中国海洋工程》1991,(4)

The modified hybrid element method (MHEM) is utilized to predict and analyze wave forces on arbitrarily shaped multiple bodies. This method can be applied to waves of all water depths, i. e. shallow, intermediate, and deep waters, on slowly varying seabed. The MHEM employs the ICCG method to save CPU and storage, thus the computation of wave forces for large multi-body systems can be carried out on microcomputers. Numerical results of the present method are compared with experimental data and other solutions. It is shown that the MHEM provides more accurate solutions of the wave forces than other numerical methods do. Therefore, the methodology presented herein can be used in the design of coastal and ocean structures.  相似文献   

Low-frequency damping of a moored semisubmersible obtained from simulated extinction tests and mean wave drift forces     

T.E. Schellin  A. Kirsch 《Applied Ocean Research》1989,11(4):202-211

Low-frequency damping of a moored semisubmersible drilling platform was obtained from numerical extinction tests simulated in still water and in regular waves and from mean wave drift forces calculated at zero forward speed. The influence of drag forces was represented by the modified Morison equation. The platform as used for the 18th ITTC Comparative Mooring Study was analyzed in irregular beam waves. The computed time series of sway as well as the corresponding sway response spectrum compared favourably with model test measurements, demonstrating that this procedure to determine low-frequency damping can be effective.  相似文献   

Microbial Diversity in Nankai Trough Sediments at a Depth of 3,843 m   总被引：6，自引：0，他引：6  

Lina Li  Jean Guenzennec  Peter Nichols  Pierre Henry  Miki Yanagibayashi  Chiaki Kato 《Journal of Oceanography》1999,55(5):635-642

Dense populations of bivalves, primarily Calyptogena sp., were observed at cold seeps of the Nankai Trough. Bacterial input to the sediment was estimated through determination of phospholipid ester-linked fatty acid (PLFA) and DNA profiles. Results indicated a bacterial biomass of 10⁹ cells (g dry wt)^-1 while individual fatty acid profiles revealed a predominance of monounsaturated fatty acids, mainly 18:1 isomers. The presence of these fatty acids can be interpreted to reflect a response to low temperature and a predominance of psychrophilic bacteria. DNA fragments encoding bacterial ribosomal RNA small-subunit sequences (16S rDNA) were amplified by the polymerase chain reaction method using DNA extracted directly from the sediment samples. From the sequencing results, at least 19 kinds of bacterial 16S rDNAs related to mostly the Proteobacteria and a few gram-positive bacteria were identified. These results suggest that the bacterial community in the Nankai Trough sediments consists of mainly bacteria belonging to the Proteobacteria , , and subdivisions. Bacteria belonging to the and subdivisions, which are known to include epibiont and sulfate reducing bacteria, respectively, were mostly detected in the sediment obtained from inside the area of the Calyptogena community, and the -Proteobacteria may function to supply reduced sulfur to bacterial endosymbionts of Calyptogena.  相似文献   

互花米草及其对海岸的防护作用   总被引：28，自引：0，他引：28  

宋连清 《海洋学研究》1997,15(1):11-19

本文论述了互花米草在滩涂中种植的时间、种植的方法及其生长的适应性。文中着重讨论互花米草在海岸工程中防浪和消浪能力。与工程护岸比较，互花米草护岸是最经济、合理和有效的。通过本文的讨论为今后利用互花米草进行海岸防护提供依据  相似文献   

Gravity torques for surface waves     

Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1997,53(1):89-92

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.  相似文献   

The Mathematical and Parameterized Expressions for Wave Induced Excess Flow of Momentum     

朱首贤丁平兴  张文静 《中国海洋工程》2007,21(1):137-146

Wave induced excess flow of momentum(WIEFM)is the averaged flow of momentum over a wave period due to wave presence,which may also be called 3-D radiation stress.In this paper,the 3-D current equations with WIEFM are derived from the averaged Navier-Stokes equations over a wave period,in which the velocity is separated into the large-scale background velocity,the wave particle velocity and the turbulent fluctuation velocity.A concept of wave fluctuating layer(WFL)is put forward,which is the vertical column from the wave trough to wave ridge.The mathematical expressions of WIEFM in WFL and below WFL are given separately.The parameterized expressions of WIEFM are set up according to the linear wave theory.The integration of WIEFM in the vertical direction equals the traditional radiation stress(namely 2-D radiation stress)given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.  相似文献   

STWAVE模型在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中的应用     

黄君宝  吴辉  赵鑫 《海洋技术学报》2007,26(3):52-54

我国常用的风推浪计算方法在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中具有一定局限性。论文通过不同方法计算的波浪要素计算结果的比较,认为STWAVE模型在满足计算精度的前提下,操作简单,方法简便,在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中具有较大的应用、推广价值。  相似文献   

Numerical and simplified methods for the calculation of the total horizontal wave force on a perforated caisson with a top cover     

Xuefeng Chen  Yucheng Li  Bin Teng 《Coastal Engineering》2007

The VOF method and the k–ε model, combined with the equation of state of air at constant temperature, have been used to calculate the total horizontal wave force caused by monochromatic waves acting on a perforated caisson with a top cover. From comparison of various parameters, such as the total horizontal force, the pressure difference on the front wall, the pressure on the back wall and the pressure on the top cover, between the numerical results and test data, it can be seen that the numerical results agree well with the test data. It is concluded that the method described in this paper can be utilized to calculate wave forces acting on perforated caissons with a top cover in the case of nonovertopping, nonbreaking waves. A simplified method to calculate the total horizontal force has been developed, based on test data, using a least-squares method. A comparison between the numerical results and the values calculated from the simplified equations shows good agreement. Therefore the simplified equations can be used in engineering applications to evaluate the total horizontal force on a perforated caisson with a top cover.  相似文献   

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究     

孙孚  张书文 《海洋与湖沼》2001,32(5):547-550

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。  相似文献