Gravity torques for surface waves     

Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1997,53(1):89-92

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.  相似文献   

春季东海表层水叶绿素a含量分布特征   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

鲁北伟  王荣 《海洋与湖沼》1996,27(5):487-492

依据“科学一号”调查船１９９４年４月在东海１０个断面上所进行的表层水连续走航观测资料，研究东海表层水叶绿素α含量在不同空间尺度上的分布特征和变化规律。结果表明，叶绿素α含量在陆架区高，在外海低；测区南部海域的含量一般高于北部海域。叶绿素α含量的分布形态变化很大，在某些外海深水区，叶绿素α含量连续百科公里没有显著变化，变化幅度小于０．２ｍｇ‘ｍ＾３；而在某些近海浅水区，叶绿素α含量在不到１公里范围内  相似文献   

The Mathematical and Parameterized Expressions for Wave Induced Excess Flow of Momentum     

朱首贤丁平兴  张文静 《中国海洋工程》2007,21(1):137-146

Wave induced excess flow of momentum(WIEFM)is the averaged flow of momentum over a wave period due to wave presence,which may also be called 3-D radiation stress.In this paper,the 3-D current equations with WIEFM are derived from the averaged Navier-Stokes equations over a wave period,in which the velocity is separated into the large-scale background velocity,the wave particle velocity and the turbulent fluctuation velocity.A concept of wave fluctuating layer(WFL)is put forward,which is the vertical column from the wave trough to wave ridge.The mathematical expressions of WIEFM in WFL and below WFL are given separately.The parameterized expressions of WIEFM are set up according to the linear wave theory.The integration of WIEFM in the vertical direction equals the traditional radiation stress(namely 2-D radiation stress)given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.  相似文献   

STWAVE模型在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中的应用     

黄君宝  吴辉  赵鑫 《海洋技术学报》2007,26(3):52-54

我国常用的风推浪计算方法在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中具有一定局限性。论文通过不同方法计算的波浪要素计算结果的比较,认为STWAVE模型在满足计算精度的前提下,操作简单,方法简便,在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中具有较大的应用、推广价值。  相似文献   

南海中南部表层沉积物黏土矿物分布及控制因素     

邱燕 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》2007,27(5):1-7

利用南海中南部表层沉积物151个样品中黏土矿物的测试数据,计算了主要黏土矿物含量的平均值并编制分布图,据此分析黏土矿物的分布特征及其控制因素。南海中南部表层沉积物中的黏土矿物组合类型为伊利石-蒙脱石-高岭石-绿泥石,含量平均值依次为47%、19%、17%和16%。高岭石含量分布具有北部低、南部高的特点,与之对应的是蒙脱石矿物含量呈现北部高、南部低的趋势。伊利石和绿泥石含量分布规律不甚明显。前者呈现北部略高、南部稍低的分布趋势,含量变化起伏较大;后者的含量变化呈西北陆坡区稍偏低,其他部位含量分布均匀的趋势。伊利石/高岭石含量的比值变化与高岭石含量变化呈明显的负相关关系。从黏土矿物含量的分布规律来看,控制本区黏土矿物分布的主要因素有物源的搬运和输送、水动力条件变化、海底火山活动、地球化学环境影响等。  相似文献   

Numerical and simplified methods for the calculation of the total horizontal wave force on a perforated caisson with a top cover     

Xuefeng Chen  Yucheng Li  Bin Teng 《Coastal Engineering》2007

The VOF method and the k–ε model, combined with the equation of state of air at constant temperature, have been used to calculate the total horizontal wave force caused by monochromatic waves acting on a perforated caisson with a top cover. From comparison of various parameters, such as the total horizontal force, the pressure difference on the front wall, the pressure on the back wall and the pressure on the top cover, between the numerical results and test data, it can be seen that the numerical results agree well with the test data. It is concluded that the method described in this paper can be utilized to calculate wave forces acting on perforated caissons with a top cover in the case of nonovertopping, nonbreaking waves. A simplified method to calculate the total horizontal force has been developed, based on test data, using a least-squares method. A comparison between the numerical results and the values calculated from the simplified equations shows good agreement. Therefore the simplified equations can be used in engineering applications to evaluate the total horizontal force on a perforated caisson with a top cover.  相似文献   

南海甲藻卡氏前沟藻的生长特性研究   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

孙海燕  龙丽娟  吴军 《热带海洋学报》2006,25(6):68-71

从海南省三亚海域收集分离了甲藻卡氏前沟藻Amphidinium carterae藻种,并在实验室成功进行了人工培养,同时对其生长特性进行了研究。实验结果表明,接种初始的细胞密度对其生长率和最高细胞密度影响很小,实验室培养和大量养殖可以采取低密度接种;最适宜培养的环境条件盐度为34,温度为26℃,营养盐浓度为2K。在温度为18—30℃、盐度为26—42、K培养液浓度系列为1/16—2 K的条件下都可存活,最大指数期平均生长率为0.958分裂.d-1,获得的最大细胞密度为7.27×105cells.ml-1。实验结果与属温带的胶州湾同物种对比,表明该藻种生长特性与温带品系有明显差异。  相似文献   

水声信道中一种抗多途跳频通信的研究   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

许肖梅  陈东升  许鹭芬  童峰  许天增 《台湾海峡》2001,20(2):152-156

水声通道系统是当代海洋开发和海洋环境立体监测中的重要技术组成部分，广泛应用于海洋监测、海洋资源勘探和开发等方面。然而，水声信道的随机起伏、时－空－频变的多途特征使水声通信技术成为当代最为复杂的通信技术之一。本文介绍近年来在高速水声通信方面的一些研究进展，讨论了一种利用高速数字信号处理器（DSP）实现水声信道跳频通信的方案，并探讨了该方案在调制信号设计及信号处理实现上所采用的关键技术。  相似文献   

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究     

孙孚  张书文 《海洋与湖沼》2001,32(5):547-550

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。  相似文献   

Wave-Current Forces on Small Square Cylinders (Part I)     

Li Yucheng  He Ming Professor  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Former master student  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1994,(3)

-Based on the extended Morison Equation and model tests, the in-line forces on small square cylinders caused by waves (regular and irregular) and currents are analyzed in detail in this paper. The hydrodynamic coefficient CD and Cu related to KC number and the effect of direction of wave incidence are also given, which can be used in engineering practice.  相似文献