On wave motions in a tropical spectral experiment     

Jacob Padro 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》1977,115(3):473-489

An attempt is made to use the barotropic vorticity equation in spectral form in order to study barotropic instability when the basic current has east-west quasi-stationary asymmetries on the scale of long waves. This is done by expressing the spectral equations in three different ways. In the first experiment a 9-component system is integrated and the long waves are allowed to propagate freely. In the second experiment the long waves are constrained to propagate slowly and in the third experiment, they are removed altogether.The motivation behind the present investigation is due to observations made in the motion fields of the tropics. These are characterized by quasi-stationary long waves and very energetically active and propagating short waves.The presence of quasi-stationary long waves seems to enhance the energy exchanges between the short waves and the mean zonal current and also allow for larger energy values for the short waves. Long term integration (90 days) shows a 6-day mode in thev time spectra at latitude 10°N and a 15-day mode in theu time spectra at individual grid points in the equatorial latitudes. Any possible connection between this peak and the observed peak of 15 days in the completely different physics of Kelvin waves is left as a conjecture.  相似文献   

Wake II model for hydrodynamic forces on marine pipelines including waves and currents     

Said R. Sabag  Billy L. Edge  Iwan Soedigdo 《Ocean Engineering》2000,27(12)

The Wake II model for the determination of the hydrodynamic forces on marine pipelines is extended to include currents and waves. There are two main differences between the Wake II and the traditional model. First, in the Wake II model the velocity is modified to include the pipe's encounter with the wake flow when the velocity reverses. Second, the model uses time dependent drag and lift coefficients. The flow field is assumed to be the linear superposition of regular waves and uniform current and is treated as wave only but in two different phases. The model requires eight empirical parameters that are obtained from comparisons with field data for various Keulegan–Carpenter numbers and current to wave ratios. The effective velocity and the force predictions are compared with field data from Exxon Production Research Company and with the conventional model. The model gives satisfactory results and predicts lift forces that in shape, magnitude and phase relative to the velocity are in very close agreement with measured forces. For the horizontal forces the results are very accurate. A substantial improvement is obtained over the predictions with the conventional model. This work is applicable to the design of submarine pipelines laying on the sea bottom in water depths where waves or waves and currents contribute to the hydrodynamic forces.  相似文献   

Analysis of directional wave fields using X-band navigation radar   总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7  

J. C. Nieto Borge  C. Guedes Soares   《Coastal Engineering》2000,40(4)

The aim of this work is to present an approach to describe complex sea states including the ones consisting of superpositions of swell and wind sea components, using a nautical radar in X-band as a remote sensing technique. In the present article, the inversion method to obtain the spectral representation of the wave fields is described. The method is applied to analyse data obtained from simulation techniques, as well as from measurements obtained during oceanographic campaigns in the Bay of Biscay and North Sea.  相似文献   

Interaction of waves,currents and tides,and wave-energy impact on the beach area of Sylt Island   总被引：3，自引：1，他引：2  

Andrey Pleskachevsky  Dieter P. Eppel  Hartmut Kapitza 《Ocean Dynamics》2009,59(3):451-461

Erosion due to waves is an important and actual problem for most coastal areas of the North Sea. The objective of this study was to estimate the impact of wave action on the coastline of Sylt Island. From a 2-year time series (November 1999 to October 2001) of hydrological and wave parameters generated with a coupled wave–current modelling system, a period comprising storm ‘Anatol’ (3–4 December 1999) is used to investigate the effects of waves on currents and water levels and the input of wave energy into the coastline. The wave-induced stress causes an increase of the current velocity of 1 m/s over sand and an additional drift along the coast of about 20 cm/s. This produces a water level increase of more than 20 cm in parts of the tidal basin. The model system also calculates the wave energy input into the coastline. Scenario runs for December 1999 with a water level increase of 50 cm and wind velocity increased by 10% show that the input of the wave energy into the west coast of Sylt Island increases by 30% compared to present conditions. With regard to the forecasted near-future (Woth et al., Ocean Dyn 56:3–15, 2006) increase of strong storm surges, the scenario results indicate an increased risk of coastal erosion in the surf zone of Sylt Island.  相似文献   

Suspended sediment transport in the German Wadden Sea—seasonal variations and extreme events     

Alexander Bartholomä  Adam Kubicki  Thomas H. Badewien  Burghard W. Flemming 《Ocean Dynamics》2009,59(2):213-225

The German Wadden Sea (southern North Sea) sediments are composed of both cohesive and non-cohesive deposits. The spatial distribution patterns are mainly driven by wind-induced waves and tidal currents. Transport intensity and duration depend on the hydrodynamic conditions, which vary over time. In this paper, the transport of suspended sediment was investigated on seasonal, tidal and hourly time scales in the back-barrier system of Spiekeroog Island. Long- and short-term data of fair weather periods and two storm events were investigated based on stationary and mobile measurements of currents and waves by Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP), in situ particle size and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) measurements by laser in situ scattering and transmissometry (LISST) as well as wind records. The ADCP backscatter intensities were calibrated by means of LISST volume concentration data in order to quantify longer term SSCs and fluxes in the back-barrier system. Values up to 120 mg l⁻¹ were recorded, but concentrations more commonly were below 60 mg l⁻¹. The long-term results confirm former observations of a balanced budget during low-energy (fair weather) conditions in the study area. In general, SSCs were higher during spring tides than during neap tides. The data also clearly show the remobilisation of sediment by tidal current entrainment. The records include two severe storm events, “Britta” (1st November 2006) and “Kyrill” (18th January 2007). The data reveal very complex temporal flow and transport patterns. During both storm events, the export of material was mainly controlled by the interaction of wind, waves and tidal phase. The typical ebb-dominance occurring during fair-weather conditions was temporarily neutralised and even reversed to a flood-dominated situation. During “Kyrill”, the wind and high-waves setup in conjunction with the tidal phase was even able to compress the duration of two successive ebb cycles by over 70%. Although SSCs increased during both storms and higher turbulence lifted particle clouds upwards, an export of suspended matter towards the North Sea was only observed under the conditions taking place during “Britta”. Such fluxes, however, are currently still difficult to quantify because the backscatter intensity during high energy events includes a substantial amount of noise produced by the high turbulence, especially near the water surface.  相似文献   

Advances in the Study of Moving Sediments and Evolving Seabeds   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Alan G. Davies  Peter D. Thorne 《Surveys in Geophysics》2008,29(1):1-36

Sands and mud are continually being transported around the world’s coastal seas due to the action of tides, wind and waves. The transport of these sediments modifies the boundary between the land and the sea, changing and reshaping its form. Sometimes the nearshore bathymetry evolves slowly over long time periods, at other times more rapidly due to natural episodic events or the introduction of manmade structures at the shoreline. For over half a century we have been trying to understand the physics of sediment transport processes and formulate predictive models. Although significant progress has been made, our capability to forecast the future behaviour of the coastal zone from basic principles is still relatively poor. However, innovative acoustic techniques for studying the fundamentals of sediment movement experimentally are now providing new insights, and it is expected that such observations, coupled with developing theoretical works, will allow us to take further steps towards the goal of predicting the evolution of coastlines and coastal bathymetry. This paper presents an overview of our existing predictive capabilities, primarily in the field of non-cohesive sediment transport, and highlights how new acoustic techniques are enabling our modelling efforts to achieve greater sophistication and accuracy. The paper is aimed at coastal scientists and managers seeking to understand how detailed physical studies can contribute to the improvement of coastal area models and, hence, inform coastal zone management strategies.  相似文献