Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

T.E. Baldock  J.A. Alsina  I. Caceres  D. Vicinanza  P. Contestabile  H. Power  A. Sanchez-Arcilla 《Coastal Engineering》2011

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.  相似文献   

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves     

F.-C. Lee  John R.-C. Hsu  W.-H. Lin 《Coastal Engineering》2011

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.  相似文献   

Air-sea CO₂ exchange of beach and near-coastal waters of the Chukchi Sea near Barrow, Alaska     

Hiroki Ikawa  Walter C. Oechel 《Continental Shelf Research》2011,31(13):1357-1364

Partial pressure of CO₂ in equilibrium with sample water (pCO₂) for the coastal water in the Chukchi Sea was continuously observed in summer, 2008. Average daily CO₂ flux calculated from the pCO₂ and gas transfer coefficients ranged from −0.144 to −0.0701 g C m⁻² day⁻¹ depending on which gas transfer coefficient was used. The pCO₂ before the landfast ice sheets melted appeared to be highly biologically controlled based on the following information: (1) the diurnal pattern of pCO₂ was strongly correlated with Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD); (2) high chlorophyll density was observed during periods of peak uptake; and (3) the day-to-day variation in the pCO₂ strongly correlated with the presence or absence of near-shore ice sheets. The lowest pCO₂ of 35 ppm together with the highest PPFD of 1362 μmol E m⁻² s⁻¹ were observed in the afternoon on June 28 in the presence of sea ice. The very low pCO₂ observed in late June was likely caused by high photosynthetic rates related to high phytoplankton densities typically observed from spring to early summer near the ice edge, and by water low in salinity and CO₂ released by melting sea ice early in the season.  相似文献   

象山皇城海滩稳定性分析与防护对策     

童宵岭  时连强  夏小明  程林  姜呈浩 《海洋科学》2015,39(9):57-61

以浙江岬湾砂质海岸象山皇城海滩为例,运用抛物线模型,分析得出皇城海滩的冲淤演化动态,并通过历史岸线形态对比探讨皇城海塘对其的影响,最终提出防止海岸侵蚀的对策。研究结果表明,皇城海滩北部有一定的侵蚀,其平面形态还未达到静态平衡,处于不稳定状态;皇城海滩北段海塘修建得过于靠海,致使海滩最重要的泥沙补给源——后滨沙丘被阻断,甚至消失,同时大潮水位可直接淹没海塘堤脚,加上海塘前为近破波,滩面水流和泥沙运动剧烈,最终导致堤前滩面的冲刷。基于此,防止海岸侵蚀的最佳对策是在拆除、重建海滩北部部分海塘后再进行适当的海滩养护。通过对皇城海滩的稳定性研究,了解海塘建设的影响,可为浙江岬湾海滩资源的合理开发、海岸防护工程建设提供一定的科学依据。  相似文献   

浙江朱家尖岛东沙海滩对热带风暴“娜基莉”的响应及风暴后的恢复   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  

郭俊丽  时连强  童宵岭  郑禹君  徐岱璐 《海洋学报》2018,40(9):137-147

海滩对风暴的响应及风暴后海滩的恢复过程一直以来都是国内外海滩研究的热点。本文通过对浙江舟山市朱家尖岛东沙海滩地形地貌的现场调查，对比分析了热带风暴"娜基莉"影响下东沙海滩剖面的蚀积变化，探讨了海滩在热带风暴发生后的恢复情况。结果表明，在"娜基莉"影响期间，因风暴浪为向岸浪，东沙海滩几乎遭受全线侵蚀，12个剖面单宽侵蚀总量为73.46 m3/m，其中海滩直线段较两个遮蔽段侵蚀显著。由于海滩在风暴前进方向的左侧，且"娜基莉"距东沙较远，使得东沙海滩普遍侵蚀但强度较小。东沙海滩在热带风暴后的恢复过程中，不同部位的地貌调整和冲淤变化不同，下岬角遮蔽段基本趋于稳定，直线段和上岬角遮蔽段在恢复过程中因受海滩季节性调整的影响呈现持续侵蚀。  相似文献   

Role of geological inheritance in Australian beach morphodynamics     

Andrew D. Short 《Coastal Engineering》2010

The Australian coast contains 10,685 beaches which occupy 49% of the 30,000 km coast and average 1.37 km in length. Their relatively short length is largely due to the presence of bedrock, calcarenite and laterite, which form boundaries to many of the beaches, as well as occurring as rocks, reefs and islands along and off the beaches. This geological inheritance plays a major role in Australian beach systems — determining their length and through wave refraction and attenuation influencing beach location, shape, type, morphodynamics and circulation, which in turn influence sediment transport and the backing dune and barrier systems. This paper uses a database covering every Australian beach to review the role of headlands, rocks and reefs on Australian beaches. Major effects are the short average beach length; reduction in breaker height resulting in lower energy beach types; wave refraction resulting in increased beach curvature; the presence of topographic rips on moderate and higher energy beaches and megarips during high wave conditions; and the interruption of and/or trapping of longshore sand transport leading to beach rotation.  相似文献   

阻碍江苏滩涂开发速度的因素浅析          下载免费PDF全文

陈才俊 《海洋开发与管理》1994,11(3):56-59

文章描述了江苏沿海滩涂开发存在的问题，分析归纳出影响滩涂开发速度的几个重要因素：领导重视不够；开发管理体制混乱；资金投入严重不足；科技投入减少，等等。并提出加速滩涂开发的几条措施，以企有所裨益。  相似文献   

Spatial variation of the intertidal sediments and macrozoo-benthic assemblages along Eighty-mile Beach, North-western Australia   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Pieter J.C. Honkoop  Grant B. Pearson  Marc S.S. Lavaleye  Theunis Piersma   《Journal of Sea Research》2006,55(4):278-291

The extensive intertidal flats along Eighty-mile Beach in North-western Australia appear to be monotonous and homogeneous and seem ideally suited to study tidal zonation in macrozoo-benthic communities and their possible correlates with characteristics of the sediment. In October 1999, we sampled benthic invertebrates and sediments at a total of 895 sampling stations distributed over six different locations, each location separated by 15 km of unsampled foreshore along Eighty-mile Beach. To test for the presence or absence of patterns of tidal zonation (distinct height-related zones of specific sediment grain sizes or zoobenthic taxonomic groups) or patchiness (distinct patches of specific sediment grain sizes or zoobenthic taxonomic groups not related to tidal height) each location was divided into three along-shore sections and each section (transect) was examined at two or three tidal heights. Zonation was observed for sediment grain sizes. Sediments were coarser at the highest intertidal level and finer towards the low water line. Benthic assemblages also differed among tidal heights, but in terms of species-composition the differences were not consistent among the locations. Each location supported a unique collection of benthic invertebrates. Therefore the hypothesis of the presence of distinct zones of specific species or zoobenthic taxonomic groups was rejected; the presence of benthic patches was confirmed. The distribution of sediments and the composition of benthic assemblages were surprisingly poorly correlated compared to those reported in 12 previous quantitative studies around the world. One possible explanation might be that super-cyclone Vance, which hit the study-area only six months before this study, contributed to this poor correlation. Alternatively, the poor correlation may indicate that biotic interactions are more important than the assumed abiotic structuring.  相似文献   

Multi-scale variability of beach profiles at Duck: A wavelet analysis   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Ying Li  Murray Lark  Dominic Reeve   《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(12):1133-1153

Beach profiles have been observed to change over a range of spatial and temporal scales; however techniques for quantifying this variability have not been fully established. In this paper, a wavelet technique is introduced as a method to study the multi-scale variability of beach profiles. The beach profile data comprising a 22-year time series surveyed at the US Army Corps of Civil Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF) at Duck are analysed using the adapted maximal overlap discrete wavelet transform (AMODWT). The analysis successfully identifies strong local features in the variability of beach profiles in time and space separately that cannot be isolated by traditional statistical methods. The analysis of spatial wavelet variances provides a new means of investigating the depth of closure. Analysis of variances by temporal scales shows that the combined effects of several temporal scales with one or two dominant scales can be seen at particular points across profiles whilst the dominant temporal scales are different at different portions of the profiles. The method allows for the extremely nonstationary behaviour of beach profile to be analysed into separate frequency bands that can facilitate the interpretation of morphological changes in terms of physical processes.  相似文献   

Efficacy of beach dewatering — Alassio,Italy     

Dan Bowman  Serena Ferri  Enzo Pranzini 《Coastal Engineering》2007

The goal of this study is to estimate the efficiency of dewatering operations in Alassio Beach, north Italy by following an integrated approach which included beach volume calculations, daily mapping of the shoreline position, examination of specific beach widening events and daily comparisons of morphodynamic characteristics of the drained beach versus a control section which included wave run-up, bar patterns, rip migration, evolution of the berm and cusp morphology.  相似文献