Coastal ridge constructive processes at a multi-decadal scale in Barreta Island (southern Portugal)     

Xabier Herrero  Susana Costas  Katerina Kombiadou 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2020,45(2):411-423

Multiple ridges across prograding coasts may display variable geometries, commonly expressed through varying elevations. Changes in ridge elevation have been traditionally related to the occurrence of fluctuating progradation rates, which might, in turn, be driven by shifting environmental conditions. Here, we explore the geometry and growth mechanisms of multiple ridges, generated at Barreta Island (Ria Formosa, southern Portugal), as a consequence of the rapid progradation of the island over the last 70 years, following the artificial fixation of the downdrift Faro-Olhão inlet with jetties in 1955. The variability in the morphology of these features was analysed in combination with available wind and wave data, in order to better distinguish growth mechanisms and understand the main parameters determining the final geometry of the observed ridges. The results suggest that (1) most of the identified ridges fall in the beach ridge classification, as they have been mostly built by marine processes, and (2) the parameters derived from, or closely related to wave climate variability (e.g. progradation rates, storm occurrence) can jointly explain most of the observed morphological changes, while aeolian processes played a secondary role. Indeed, ridge geometry appears mainly controlled by progradation rates, with higher ridges associated with lower progradation rates. Progradation rate, in turn, is mostly related to longshore wave power, storminess, and the occurrence storm groups. Yet, the final configuration of ridges can also be affected by runup levels and onshore winds. Therefore, establishing the relation between ridge geometry and wave climate is not a straightforward task, because of the complex processes and interactions that control coastal morphodynamics. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

辽河盆地西部凹陷古近系沙四上亚段沉积相及演化     

王夏斌  姜在兴  胡光义  范廷恩  王俊辉  卢欢 《吉林大学学报(地球科学版)》2019,49(5):1222-1234

薄互层砂体研究是湖盆沉积学的研究难点。本文针对辽河西部凹陷沙四上亚段（Es^4上）薄互层砂体，以层序地层学、沉积学、测井地质学等理论为指导，综合岩心、测录井和地震等多种资料，对西部凹陷的薄互层砂体进行精细描述和深入剖析。结果表明，研究区主要发育辫状河三角洲和湖泊沉积相，其中，滩坝砂体是湖泊相的主力砂体。通过考虑不同沉积背景下滩坝在岩相组合、发育位置和成因机理的差异性，将滩坝划分成侧缘改造型滩坝、前缘改造型滩坝、基岩改造型滩坝、淹没改造型滩坝和风暴改造型滩坝5种沉积模式；对薄层滩坝砂体的控制因素进行分析，认为其受到"风场-物源-盆地"三端元的控制。  相似文献   

微生物勘探技术在潮汕坳陷油气勘探中的应用初探     

赵忠泉  孙鸣  万晓明  陈胜红  赵静  宋立军  李辉  强昆生  梁永兴 《中国地质》2020,47(3):645-654

东沙海域潮汕坳陷中生界研究程度相对较低,油气分布规律不明,为了加强对该区油气分布和富集规律的研究,针对潮汕坳陷西部地质目标首次应用微生物地球化学勘探技术(MGCE),探讨其含油气性。MGCE技术以轻烃微渗漏理论为基础,采用地质微生物学方法和地球化学方法检测研究区海底表层的微生物异常和吸附烃异常,预测研究区下伏地层中油气的富集区及其油气性质。检测结果显示研究区西部凹陷的斜坡区微生物异常呈块状发育,轻烃微渗漏强度变化大,可能为潜在油气富集区,酸解吸附烃成果显示可能的油气性质为干气和凝析油气。  相似文献   

基于连岛沙坝原理设计的海滩排水管头地貌稳定性研究     

董标  蔡锋  金保明  刘建辉  雷刚 《海洋工程》2018,36(1):128-137

海滩排水管建设对海滩环境影响较大。以厦门会展中心连岛沙坝式排水管头工程影响海滩演变为例,研究连岛沙坝式海滩排水管头对海滩地形稳定性和沉积的影响。1)通过对研究区连岛沙坝式管头附近海滩10条剖面进行分析,研究管头附近海滩滩肩宽度、滩面坡度和单宽留存沙量等剖面形态变化特征。测量数据分析表明,无管头保护滩面高程降低,滩面坡度总体变陡,滩肩蚀退严重;受管头保护滩面高程上升,坡度变缓,滩肩宽度略有减小,剖面单宽沙量留存比例大于1。2)2012-2016年多期岸线及管头边界线变化结果表明,工程施工后,排水管身始终被沙体覆盖,一年后部分管头被沙体覆盖,最终管头被覆盖率稳定在70%以上。3)会展管头附近海滩潮上带和高潮带沉积物自北向南运移,低潮带则相反;潮上带和中潮带上部沉积物从管头所在"连岛沙坝"向两侧海滩输移,而低潮带和中潮带下部输移方向相反。沉积物粒径由岸向海逐渐变粗,越靠近管头,沉积物粒径呈变细趋势。最后讨论了引起管头局部海滩地形地貌变化的主要因素。  相似文献   

浙江朱家尖岛东沙海滩对热带风暴“娜基莉”的响应及风暴后的恢复   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  

郭俊丽  时连强  童宵岭  郑禹君  徐岱璐 《海洋学报》2018,40(9):137-147

海滩对风暴的响应及风暴后海滩的恢复过程一直以来都是国内外海滩研究的热点。本文通过对浙江舟山市朱家尖岛东沙海滩地形地貌的现场调查，对比分析了热带风暴"娜基莉"影响下东沙海滩剖面的蚀积变化，探讨了海滩在热带风暴发生后的恢复情况。结果表明，在"娜基莉"影响期间，因风暴浪为向岸浪，东沙海滩几乎遭受全线侵蚀，12个剖面单宽侵蚀总量为73.46 m3/m，其中海滩直线段较两个遮蔽段侵蚀显著。由于海滩在风暴前进方向的左侧，且"娜基莉"距东沙较远，使得东沙海滩普遍侵蚀但强度较小。东沙海滩在热带风暴后的恢复过程中，不同部位的地貌调整和冲淤变化不同，下岬角遮蔽段基本趋于稳定，直线段和上岬角遮蔽段在恢复过程中因受海滩季节性调整的影响呈现持续侵蚀。  相似文献   

Evaluating proxies for estimating subaerial beach volume change across increasing time scales and various morphologies          下载免费PDF全文

Ethan J. Theuerkauf  Antonio B. Rodriguez 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2014,39(5):593-604

Proxies, such as changes in beach profiles and shoreline positions, are commonly used in management and research for estimating changes in subaerial beach volume; however, the accuracy of these proxies across increasing time scales and complex morphologies is unclear. Volume changes associated with along‐beach morphologic variability may not be captured well by changes in profiles, while volume changes associated with across‐beach morphologic variability may not be captured well by measuring shoreline change. This study assesses the impacts of morphologic variations, associated with beach cusps and nourishment material, on volume change estimates from profiles and shoreline change at 0.5 to 3.5 year time periods. Results indicate that profiles spaced ≥ 150 m apart and the shoreline‐change proxy will likely estimate volume change inaccurately over periods ≤ 1 year at beaches that are consistently eroding or accreting and contain cusps. However, over longer time periods (1–3.5 years), estimates of volume change from both proxies improved at those types of beaches. Volume changes at the edges of nourishment areas are not captured well by profiles. When the nourishment material is graded to a ramped morphology, which minimizes across‐beach morphologic variability, the shoreline‐change proxy does accurately estimate volume changes. Both proxies estimate volume changes inaccurately at beaches where volume changes oscillate between erosion and accretion on both short and long time scales because the magnitude of small‐scale changes in volume from the formation and erosion of morphologic features, such as cusps and berms, will always be similar to the longer‐term net volume change. This study suggests that decadal records of shoreline change, which are commonly developed using aerial photography, can be used to help identify the best proxy for estimating volume change; however, recent anthropogenic modifications that impact patterns of beach sedimentation, including nourishment, terminal groins, and inlet‐channel dredging, makes decadal records less useful. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

日照海岸带沙滩侵蚀现状及沉积物粒度特征分析     

种衍飞  郝义 《海洋地质前沿》2020,36(1):19-29

通过对日照市海岸带2个重点沙滩的现场调查和沉积物粒度计算,综合分析了沙滩的侵蚀现状和粒度参数特征。海滨国家森林公园沙滩北部和南部处于侵蚀状态,中部为缓慢淤积状态;万平口海水浴场沙滩北部、中部总体呈侵蚀趋势,南部为淤积状态。海滨国家森林公园沙滩的平均粒径总体要小于万平口海水浴场沙滩,这与两沙滩的坡度不同有关,平均粒径从滩肩到低潮线逐渐变小。海滨国家森林公园沙滩的分选性要好于万平口海水浴场沙滩,分选系数具有由陆向海、由北向南逐渐变小的趋势。沙滩的滩肩和滩面处频率曲线主要为双峰,峰态平坦,物质来源复杂,低潮线处频率曲线主要为单峰,峰态尖锐,物质来源单一。  相似文献   

Storm response of a mixed sand gravel beach ridge plain under falling relative sea levels: A stratigraphic investigation using ground penetrating radar     

Sebastian J. Pitman  Harry M. Jol  James Shulmeister  Deirdre E. Hart 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2019,44(8):1610-1617

Beach ridge stratigraphy can provide an important record of both sustained coastal progradation and responses to events such as extreme storms, as well as evidence of earthquake induced sediment pulses. This study is a stratigraphic investigation of the late Holocene mixed sand gravel (MSG) beach ridge plain on the Canterbury coast, New Zealand. The subsurface was imaged along a 370 m shore-normal transect using 100 and 200 MHz ground penetrating radar (GPR) antennae, and cored to sample sediment textures. Results show that, seaward of a back-barrier lagoon, the Pegasus Bay beach ridge plain prograded almost uniformly, under conditions of relatively stable sea level. Nearshore sediment supply appears to have created a sustained sediment surplus, perhaps as a result of post-seismic sediment pulses, resulting in a flat, morphologically featureless beach ridge plain. Evidence of a high magnitude storm provides an exception, with an estimated event return period in excess of 100 years. Evidence from the GPR sequence combined with modern process observations from MSG beaches indicates that a palaeo-storm initially created a washover fan into the back-barrier lagoon, with a large amount of sediment simultaneously moved off the beach face into the nearshore. This erosion event resulted in a topographic depression still evident today. In the subsequent recovery period, sediment was reworked by swash onto the beach as a sequence of berm deposit laminations, creating an elevated beach ridge that also has a modern-day topographic signature. As sediment supply returned to normal, and under conditions of falling sea level, a beach ridge progradation sequence accumulated seaward of the storm feature out to the modern-day beach as a large flat, uniform progradation plain. This study highlights the importance of extreme storm events and earthquake pulses on MSG coastlines in triggering high volume beach ridge formation during the subsequent recovery period. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution     

Joevivek Vincent Jayaraj  Chandrasekar Nainarpandian  Jayangondaperumal Ramakrishnan  Thakur Vikram Chandr  Shree Purniema Krishnan 《海洋学报(英文版)》2019,38(5):151-160

To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.  相似文献   

Prograded coastal barriers provide paleoenvironmental records of storms and sea level during late Quaternary highstands          下载免费PDF全文

Amy J. Dougherty 《第四纪科学杂志》2018,33(5):501-517

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